ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[Speed810]

Evening TNT....

Your right....I have read their user manual from West Systems and they do state that. With the usual working time of this epoxy it can start thickening with in 15 to 20mins. Not a whole lot of time when your rolling this on. Want to make sure it rolls on real thin and flows out. Not real concerned about its structural properties for this part of the build....It is mainly applied as a sealer to the outside of the boat structure.

But thanks for the input.....I can always use more....LOL

Mike

[Speed810]

Finally found some time to get some more work done tonight.
Covered the center airfoil sections in a carbon fiber veil. Sure like how the carbon fiber lays down and forms to curves and edges.

Also finished putting a thin second coat of epoxy to all the tub sections in the center hull. I think that will complete that work.

Started sanding the fiberglass canopy seams. Found that there were a lot of bubble holes and nicks, so I filled them with a bondo glaze. Also faired in the seams with the glaze instead of sanding down through the fiberglass to take the seam line out.

Should be ready to assemble the sponsons to the center section tomorrow.

Mike






Airfoil Veil.JPGCanopy 1.JPG

[Speed810]

Finally looking like a Hydro

Well its finally looking like a Hydro.....LOL

Saturday completed the final assembly of the sponsons to the center hull section. Everything mated up perfectly. Glad I invested in some good number of clamps because I used every one of them.......:)

After everything cured over night I installed the battery tray. Will be adding some triangle stock and coat it in epoxy.

I'm still waiting on the dummy engine, but decided to complete the rear hatch. My thought is any modifications to the hatch to mount the dummy engine should not be anything that will effect the hatch mounting. The hatch fairing is RC Boat Companies fiberglass rear hatch. I cut the top part of the hatch out from the ends and sides of the mold and then added ply to each side and a piece of 1/8" ply up front to maintain the integrity of the molded fiberglass. Added 3/16" sq. stock to the inside of the rear center section to support the hatch. Used some small button screws to secure the hatch to the rail supports. Really pleased the way it turned out. Looks like I'll have to shave down the top of the strut extension and bracket supports a little to accommodate the hatch, but I don't think that's to big a deal.

So now on to the center compartment hatch work and canopy work. Still need to mount the turn fin, and cover the front canard.

Getting closer to paint everyday....LOL

Any comments on epoxying the outside of this boat.....I have an idea on how I'm going to do it, just looking for different ways and techniques that others have used.

Thanks..............

Mike

[Agitator]

Are you going to use RC Boat Companies dummy turbine? I almost finished my rear deck before I got, and am glad I waited. But it does look the part :)

Michael


001.jpg

[Speed810]

Hi Agitator....

Yes... I will be using the dummy turbine engine from RC Boat Company. The rear hatch plate is also their fiberglass rear engine tray.

SO what kind of problems are you foreseeing in installing the dummy turbine with the rear hatch already installed??? I guess I'm not seeing a problem seeing that the hatch comes right out for any install process and can be modified fairly easy.

Am I missing something??

[Agitator]

I actually mounted mine to the cowl. You will probably ending up cutting quite a bit of the can down to fit. My rear tray is separate, closer to how Don built his. My tray doesn't go all the way to the radio box, I left some space
for the rear magnet plate and was able to leave some of the entire can intact to install the blanket. Watching your build close to see how you do your's. Have not seen too many boats built with this turbine yet.


009.jpg001.jpg003.jpg004.jpg

[don ferrette]

My dummy turbine is attached to the rear tray.

[Speed810]

Thanks Don...I thought that is how you had secured yours and that 1st picture clarifies it.

Any input on completing the epoxy sealing of the outside of the hull? In post #119 I described what my plan was.
Just wondering if I'm on the right track.

Thanks

Mike

[Speed810]

Quick Update from over last weekend

Update from the past weekend thru yesterday.....

Filler and one more coat of epoxy on the front airfoil sections and canard. Then finish sanding.

Mounted the turn fin with 1/4" aluminum back plate.

Mounted 1/4" sq. stock around the inside of the tub area and cut the top section to fit. I still need to cut out the center for the hatch and build the top extension to accommodate the motor and ESC. SO far so good.

After some hints from a fellow boat builder, cut and sanded the canopy to fit. Nice snug fit. Still work to be done. Will be cutting out an 1/8" center section form to fit the front inside part of the canopy to maintain the hull form. Some tricky areas that will be important will be getting the correct former cut for the nose section pieces so they mate up correctly when mounting the rear portion of the canopy. Also will be finishing the cuts for the air inlet, windshield and rear motor exit.

More to come....

[Speed810]

Also finished the sponson heels

Thought I'd add a few more.....

Finished up the heel sections and formers on the sponsons. Took a little time to get them cut and sanded to fit appropriately, but I think they turned out pretty nice.

Also added a photo of the center tub sheeting from the last post.

Well on my way back out to the shop to continue work on the canopy and see if I can get the nose section completed and line/tape out for the windshield.

Mike

[Speed810]

Canopy Work

Started getting the canopy fitted this weekend. In addition to the pictures I was able to fit and secure the nose of the canopy. Also cut the openings for the engine and the air inlet.

Built up the tub enclosure along with the extension box to house the motor and ESC. Actually had to redesign the enclosure twice in order to allow enough room to slide the batteries in and out. Dang there bigger than I thought....:)

Also started to mount the vertical wing sections. Slotted the verticals and the hull section. Guess I'm wondering if I could glue in the braces now and then slot the skins to slide over them or if it would be easier to just glue the top skins on, slot them in that location and then glue in the wing braces. I'm kind of concerned that I get a good bond on the brace in the hull. Any words of wisdom???

This is the first time that I have seen an ESC with all dual leads coming off of it.
Are most of you guys just soldering both leads together to run through the Cap pack then into one 8mm plug or are you soldering both leads through the Cap pack and into one plug?

Thanks for any help you can lend.

Mike

[Speed810]

Getting Closer

Well the boat is coming together pretty nicely.

The overall weight has had be pretty concerned, but some of my fellow boaters are indicating that the weight is not that bad.

In order to balance the boat with a CG at about 1 1/4" behind the heel of the sponson I am looking at close to 10oz in each sponson tip. Went and started to evaluate where I could drop weight in the back of the boat. Well the first was to drill out the back of the shoes since they are solid hardwood. My other thought is that I keep thinking they are a bit on the big size (as far as the depth of the shoes)
I never really received any feedback on the size...or got any information on the depth of these shoes. Basically are they supposed to extend down no more than approx. 1/2" below the back of the hull?? But they just look a little large and maybe I can shave those down to cut down on more weight in the rear of the boat.

Right now with the lead added I'm at 19lbs on the nose. That's with the shoes drilled/hollowed out. Feel free to add your opinions and thoughts/theories......LOL

In any case the tub section, hatch work is all complete. The canopy is about done with windshield fitted, and canopy framework completed. Finished off the nose block with the fiberglass canopy nose section. Top sheets are rough cut and ready for installation. Rear wing has been completed....Used 1/8" aluminum for braces....(drilled out lighting holes). Threaded the aluminum plate for 6-32 nylon screws. The horizontal wing was drilled out for 4-40 threaded brass inserts and epoxied into the ends of the horizontal wing, then 4-40 nylon screws used to attach the wing assembly together.

I'm waiting for the dummy turbine and wing strut assembly to perform the final balancing. Hoping to get the CG no farther than 1 1/2" behind the heel without adding more weight to the sponson tips. Once that is done the top sheets will go down and final epoxy work will be completed. Should have all the graphics and paint material in next week.

Back to the shop....LOL

Mike

[Doby]

Don't add any extra weight to get the COG right...see if you can do it by moving batt/esc etc first.

[Speed810]

Can't do that Doby.....Batteries, tray etc were designed to go as far forward as possible. The motor/ESC is the same....They are up as far forward as they will go. So now I'm left with lightning up things in the rear and adding to the front. When talking to Don Ferittii he indicated that he needed to add 8oz to each sponson tip. Just a thing with these boats I guess. Believe me if I could just move batteries forward etc....I'd be on it....LOL

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

Think you'll have er done for the Cup Mike? Honestly, I enjoy watching the big scales more than running them. If you squint they're like the real thing. With electric motors they even sound kind of turbine like.