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Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 09:51 AM. -
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Interesting post. This is the exact situation I want to avoid because I've been close with one of my cars and realized I was spending more time tinkering and upgrading than I was actually just having fun driving it around. Of course, I'm not looking to hit 70+mph speeds but rather be able to run it around at 60+ with good control and at least a few minutes of battery life. I do salute the work and experimentation you've done however as, at least speaking for myself, you've allowed me to avoid a great deal of trial and effort and I've learned a ton from reading these posts. Much appreciated!Comment
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I would say the dual water is the problem, They extend to far down and what I would do is cut some off the pickup pipes off and bend forward close to 90 degrees and leave the pipes inline. The current long pipes cause drag. BTW, nice BOAT.Comment
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Sounds like a bit of a ‘Ah hah’ moment. We all have them. Can’t see the forest thru the trees, blah blah.
I have limited hydro experience but one thing I have had success with is pulling water off the sponson bottoms. IF you are having cooling issues. This should be less for you as the water cools now. I love fall/spring running for this reason.
Also if you are going back to stock on the rudder you can take a debuting ball(Dremal) and just teardrop the inlet of the rudder. This is usually plenty.Comment
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Do you know how thick that piece of wood is? Meaning, my local hobby shop has tons of variable thickness wood sheets and it would be great to be able to just go but the exact pieces I need. Sorry, may be a few questions coming in- I'm now in the heat of setting my boat up :-)
My hydro setup on the countertop.
The wood under the sponsons is the same thickness as the measurement from the bottom of the strut to the prop shaft centerline.
Study that statement carefully...
This means the bottom of the sponsons and the prop centerline are on the same plane.
I recommend to zoom in on this photo too.
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