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On the strut, I move the boat onto the stuffing tube and find a spot up the curve of the tube that lines out with the center of the prop shaft. Another way is to measure with calipers from the bottom of the boat to the center of the propshaft in the strut. I then cut a block of wood and sand in so it’s the indicated height of the calipers. Then set the boat onto the block, moving the boat back off the edge of the countertop until the strut is hanging clear.
Note: the recommended depth applies to 1/10 scale models, like the UL-19.
The rudder should be square with the back of the sponsons as a starting point. The depth of a rudder is a cut until it doesn’t turn good anymore, then buy a new rudder. Another way is the make it about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2” below the strut. That’s a pretty safe depth. Some angle the bottom of the rudder towards the transom, which has the effect of putting the bow down, on a hydro. Angling it back tends to raise the nose. This all comes at the cost of adding oversteering characteristics with it forward and understeering with it back. Personally, I think moving the rudder other than square, is trying to fix another problem by putting in a correction with +/- traits somewhere else.
Note: the recommended depth applies to 1/10 scale models, like the UL-19.
The rudder should be square with the back of the sponsons as a starting point. The depth of a rudder is a cut until it doesn’t turn good anymore, then buy a new rudder. Another way is the make it about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2” below the strut. That’s a pretty safe depth. Some angle the bottom of the rudder towards the transom, which has the effect of putting the bow down, on a hydro. Angling it back tends to raise the nose. This all comes at the cost of adding oversteering characteristics with it forward and understeering with it back. Personally, I think moving the rudder other than square, is trying to fix another problem by putting in a correction with +/- traits somewhere else.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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