Here are some Eagle Tree graphs, showing RPMs, Amps, and Airspeed. These should represent the three race heats, plus a test session I did immediately after the third heat... on the same, un-recharged batteries, so it's a little slower... I trimmed out the runup to the start and the drive in, and just focused on the laps themselves.
Can someone tell me how to adjust the colors of the lines? I couldn't seem to figure it out this morning, though I couldn't spend much time trying...
I'm certain that there is MORE there to be had... I never could really run full throttle, and once I get out front, I tend to ease up a bit and follow Dick Crowe's advice... "Only drive as fast as you HAVE to"... Once I get things more dialed, I'll give it an all out 2-lap effort and see what it's really capable of...
I think it's a reference to not "trying to set a world record," blowing off in the process, more than as a way to preserve electronics. It's very sound advice.
Darin, I was looking at your data and it looks like you are pulling up to 100 Amps. Did you change your connectors...or did you retain the Deans plugs?
Darin, I was looking at your data and it looks like you are pulling up to 100 Amps. Did you change your connectors...or did you retain the Deans plugs?
I don't do Dean's anymore... All of my batteries use 6mm, and all of my motor connections of the spec boats use 4mm. All of my other motors use 5.5mm on the motor side.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Another Race, Another perfect day for the Miss Elam!!
I tweaked and adjusted and tweaked some more, and I still couldn't get the sponson walking out of this thing... I could only run about 1/2 throttle most of the race because as the boat approached top speeds... it would try to climb off the water.
So, after confirming that the turn-fin was perfectly aligned (it was not), and moving the strut down about as deep as I dare... and having none of it really make the situation more drivable... I taped 6oz of lead to the forward cannard wing.
BINGO! I was able to run 4-test laps, around a 1/6th mile course, at full throttle without even thinking of lifting...
The CG, it turns out, was over 3" aft of the sponsons... With the lead on the front, the CG moved forward to around 2" or so... I'll get a more accurate measurement when I get the boat on the bench. The end result, however, was that it simply didn't have enough weight on the nose...
I'm going to play with it some more, but it seems like I'm on the right track. Once I get this part settled down, I'll get back to figuring out which props really work well...
Even with all the issues... I was able to get out front and stay there against a variety of other boats in the class. We had two flights of boats... I think 9 or 10 in all... and I was able to secure high-points for the day with three heat wins!
And... the boat sure looks good doing it!
More to come... Sorry, no pictures today. Too busy tweaking and tuning...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Congrats...3" aft? Sheez....that is way back. Cells can't be moved enough?
Did you not do a finger test of the CG earlier on?
NO... there is NO WAY the cells are moving ANYWHERE !! Forward OR AFT! As you can see from the picture... there is JUST enough room to even fit two 4500 2S packs in there alongside the motor...
I DID do a CG test... but with no way to change it... I just ran it to see what would happen...
NOW I know!
Now I just need to figure out a clean and nice looking way to add 6 to 8oz of lead to the nose... As much as people are all hung-up on weight... the extra weight is making the boat FASTER!!
Throw some steel BBs in a sealed bag of shrink wrap and slide it up there with some epxoy on the bottom. Maybe 2 ounce on one side and 4 oz on the fin side? Or what ever the weight is a light amount to the right may also help cornering.
Bummer not to be able to move cells but that is an easy fix with weight.
Comment