Stiletto Race Prep

[FastVee]

Hey guys, is the steering arm supposed to be further back on the right side?

It cant be centered w/o grinding a new flat spot to the shaft cause the shaft has flat spot under the set screw to make it this angle so I guess this is to make the boat turn to the right better?

Oh, and tested s220(s&b + barr cut) and x442(s&b)and they were about equally fast(er then stock) but x442 revved more and felt really good!

-Pate

[0ih8u2]

should be straight

Hey guys, is the steering arm supposed to be further back on the right side?

It cant be centered w/o grinding a new flat spot to the shaft cause the shaft has flat spot under the set screw to make it this angle so I guess this is to make the boat turn to the right better?

Oh, and tested s220(s&b + barr cut) and x442(s&b)and they were about equally fast(er then stock) but x442 revved more and felt really good!

-Pate

i have two of these outboards both of them the arms are straight
theres a grub screw down further in the middle of pivot pin check it hasnt come loose and moved
Cheers

[FastVee]

The screws were tightened, but I removed the shaft/pin and installed again, tightened the screws and that pulled the steering arm a bit off centre -every time so it is grinded wrongly at the factory I guess?

Not that big of a deal, I´ll just grind new flat spot on the other side if that is not like it is suppose to look.P1030898.JPGP1030896.JPG

Pate

[FastVee]

Got new batteries today, tried the 4s turnigys in the hull... they fit fine and are light (30/40c 4500mAh) ,but when I pulled the battery off... -a piece of the battery comparament came with it. -the fiberglassing is really thin at the corners! -I fixed it with epoxy, will glass it in the winter if this holds till then. If I would try I could easily push my finger through the hull in the battery box. -there is more damage under the velcro but you get the idea from these pics.
P1030901.JPGP1030900.JPG

My friends boat has nothing like this on it so the quality seems to be on /off... -I allways get the bad ones...-not that this is that bad, just few small things that needs fixing, but this was suppose to be my rtr basher, just plug and play. -Looks like rtr´s still mean ready to rebuild...



I also did 7/32 brass tubing in the ob and it is a bit loose fit, need to silicone it in place I think. -I filed the( "ob stuffing tube holders"-dunno what to call them, the grooves that holds the teflon/brass tubing in place.) a bit bigger so the cable wont bind there.

[jamespl]

I took my stiletto put for it's first run yesterday, it was ok but needs some adjustment. It was making a bit of a slapping noise against the water so I think I need to get the nose up a bit. I have set the screws on the back of the hul so that the outboard is in the middle and set the adjustment so it is pointing up just a tad (if that makes sence) am I on the right track? I'm yet to run it with the new adjustments.

[GP73]

The screws were tightened, but I removed the shaft/pin and installed again, tightened the screws and that pulled the steering arm a bit off centre -every time so it is grinded wrongly at the factory I guess?

Not that big of a deal, I´ll just grind new flat spot on the other side if that is not like it is suppose to look.[ATTACH=CONFIG]54675[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]54676[/ATTACH]

Pate

I would send the pics to Horizon Hobby support and see if the will ship you a new one.

[FastVee]

Sent email to Horizon with a link to this thread, will report what(or if) they reply.


It is allways difficult to solve warranty issues long distance, I live in Finland and even thought of sending the boat back, but that would cost me over 300€ ! -the post is so expensive over here to send anything overseas. -even ups wants over 200€.... -so I will keep and fix this even if Horizon wont help me out here with the parts needed.(not saying they wont, lets see what happens)


Pate

[FastVee]

I just got the Hyper Performance 3.5 Bullet Shaft Assembly and Hyper Performance flex. I made the flat spot on the motor shaft longer and rised the coupler a bit. Is this correct or should I shorten the flex a bit? (dont get why that would even work since the cable wont go any deeper in eighter end...cutting it would only make the square ends shorter and that cant help?) -or am I missing something here?

Also should the grub screws on the bullet assembly be loctited or not? -greasing the assembly is more difficult if loctited but wont the screws get loose if not glued?

Is the fuel tubing that comes with the assembly used between prop and nut for smaller props? -or why is that there?
hpi-psa35.JPG
Just throwing ideas here, since I have never worked with these ob´s.

[Cubfan]

I love the boat- it runs great but I am breaking flex shafts a lot. In 6 runs I have broken 2. The first broke on the second run- the replacement got 4 runs and was greased after the second run on it. Any thoughts on things to check? I am going to split the cases and check the tube to make sure there isn't a problem there. I read that any shaft for a k&B 21 will fit so I thought I might track one of those down and try it to see it might be more durable?

Thanks for your help

[Racer944]

I just picked one of these up and am getting it ready and adjsuting it for a maiden run.

I love the look and quality of the boat overall so far; but will be watching for responses on the flex shafts breaking to see if there is anything that should be done preventative maintenance wise (other than greasing) to get the longest life possible out of the stock setup.

Cheers;
Eric

[Darin Jordan]

I posted a response to Cubfan's question on the RC Groups forum, but here it is again for the rest of you:


Can you describe WHERE the cables are breaking?

If I may venture a guess, I'd say they are breaking either very near the stub shaft (within 1/4" or so of the stub shaft, just up from the flats??) or very near the coupler??

On the http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/forum.php forum, I have a "race prep" thread for this boat where I describe some prep work I did on my lower units to increase their reliability and reduce maintenance, as well as reduce drag.

Here is a link to that thread: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...etto-Race-Prep

One think I noticed is that the holes in the cases of the lower unit that are at either end of the channel that holds the teflon stuffing tube are a little bit on the small side. I disassembled my lower unit to get all the internals out and to clean up the halves (there can be bead-blasting debris in the cases from the manufacturing process). Putting just the two halves together, I opened up the holes where the flex exits into the prop-shaft and at the top near the coupler to provide a little more "wiggle-room" for the flex cable in these areas. I also used this opportunity to assemble the motor, stuffing tube, prop-shaft, coupler, and flex shaft onto one-half of the lower unit so I could assure that the coupler is installed to allow the proper flex-shaft end-play and wasn't binding. There should be a slight amount of end clearance of the flex in the coupler and the prop-shaft.

What I suspect is happening with your flex cables is that they are either binding from being jammed down with no end-clearance in your coupler/prop-shaft, or that they are rubbing on the holes I described above.

All that being said, I have been using Lawless or K&B stubs in mine, simply because that's what I have, and also because they tend to have JUST ENOUGH flat at the ends (the flats aren't overly long), so the cable can bend a little bit more toward the ends.

Hope this helps.

[Racer944]

Darin;

I went back and looked at the thread again and found the posts I was missing about cleaning up the lower unit... Thanks, I will do that!

Also, please forgive me, I am new to boats, can you describe where I am looking to set/see the end play and when you say a slight amount of end clearance, what is a slight amount? Is 1/16" too much or too little?

Sorry for the newbie/dumb question on this... Maybe its more obvious with the unit in front of me...

Eric

EDIT: I think I may have figured this out... is it a case of sliding the coupler or shaft on until it bottoms and then simply pulling it back out a bit before tightening? I thought I was llooking for a space somewhere but now I think I understand this...

[Darin Jordan]

Darin;

I went back and looked at the thread again and found the posts I was missing about cleaning up the lower unit... Thanks, I will do that!

Also, please forgive me, I am new to boats, can you describe where I am looking to set/see the end play and when you say a slight amount of end clearance, what is a slight amount? Is 1/16" too much or too little?

Sorry for the newbie/dumb question on this... Maybe its more obvious with the unit in front of me...

Eric

EDIT: I think I may have figured this out... is it a case of sliding the coupler or shaft on until it bottoms and then simply pulling it back out a bit before tightening? I thought I was llooking for a space somewhere but now I think I understand this...

No worries... check out post #68 (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...464#post206464 )

The cable should be able to slide just a tad (1/16" or so) between the coupler and the prop shaft. It should NEVER be bound up in between the two, which can happen if you have no end-play and you tighten the motor or prop-shaft down tightly, wedging the cable in between.

[Cubfan]

I posted a response to Cubfan's question on the RC Groups forum, but here it is again for the rest of you:


Can you describe WHERE the cables are breaking?

If I may venture a guess, I'd say they are breaking either very near the stub shaft (within 1/4" or so of the stub shaft, just up from the flats??) or very near the coupler?

On the http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/forum.php forum, I have a "race prep" thread for this boat where I describe some prep work I did on my lower units to increase their reliability and reduce maintenance, as well as reduce drag.

Here is a link to that thread: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...etto-Race-Prep

One think I noticed is that the holes in the cases of the lower unit that are at either end of the channel that holds the teflon stuffing tube are a little bit on the small side. I disassembled my lower unit to get all the internals out and to clean up the halves (there can be bead-blasting debris in the cases from the manufacturing process). Putting just the two halves together, I opened up the holes where the flex exits into the prop-shaft and at the top near the coupler to provide a little more "wiggle-room" for the flex cable in these areas. I also used this opportunity to assemble the motor, stuffing tube, prop-shaft, coupler, and flex shaft onto one-half of the lower unit so I could assure that the coupler is installed to allow the proper flex-shaft end-play and wasn't binding. There should be a slight amount of end clearance of the flex in the coupler and the prop-shaft.

What I suspect is happening with your flex cables is that they are either binding from being jammed down with no end-clearance in your coupler/prop-shaft, or that they are rubbing on the holes I described above.

All that being said, I have been using Lawless or K&B stubs in mine, simply because that's what I have, and also because they tend to have JUST ENOUGH flat at the ends (the flats aren't overly long), so the cable can bend a little bit more toward the ends.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Darin
I have subscribed over here now as it seems to have more activity.
You are correct- my shafts are breaking closer to the top. I will try your blueprint method on the case halves and check the clearances. I also like the tubing replacement idea.
Thanks for your input
Jay

[giddyuperic]

Hello Did you find out if the 45 amp card is good on the 60amp ESC? And we talked on RC Groups my name is Eric from so cal but what I wanted to ask is the throttle setting as I said she jumps out of the water two feet on start up. So sgould the card be at linear or logarithm curve? If you could just tell me where the whole card should be set at that would be great please. Thank you. Love this boat!!!!!!