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  • Megabiker98
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 253

    #61
    Ok, so u do NOT recommend running it like this? I kinda figured that was gonna be the outcome, would loc-tite help at all???

    Comment

    • ray schrauwen
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2007
      • 9471

      #62
      Loctite could help but, if it seeps into the stub shaft, then you may have trouble getting the prop off.

      Cheaper, simpler fix may work is to use a proper Octura or Aeromarine locknut. They are shorter and start locking on the first few threads.

      Someone on here long ago said they were called something special if you wanted to order them. Something like an aircraft locknut where the bore is almost oval to create locking as soon as you get one or two threads on.

      It's your call. Nice prop and would not want to lose it. Ahh, the urge to get on soft water, I feel your pain sir!!!
      Nortavlag Bulc

      Comment

      • ray schrauwen
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2007
        • 9471

        #63
        Was it an M445 or an x445 with the tongues cut off? An x445 has a huge hub.

        If you have a grinder you could quickly grind off 1/16" from the back of prop hub.. Remember a mask!!! BerCopper!
        Nortavlag Bulc

        Comment

        • Megabiker98
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2013
          • 253

          #64
          I am not sure, I bought it from a user on this site, it's an m445 that's about all I know!!! Hahaha, ya I'm setting all my boats up for my first river trip! I ALMOST put off putting the prop on until I got to the river, I'm glad I didn't though!!!!
          Edit: if someone could chime in about what the name of that prop nut he is talking about would be great!

          Comment

          • Megabiker98
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 253

            #65
            Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??

            Comment

            • ray schrauwen
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Apr 2007
              • 9471

              #66
              If it says M445 on the end it is M445 if it says x445 it is a cut x445.
              Nortavlag Bulc

              Comment

              • ray schrauwen
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2007
                • 9471

                #67
                Doesn't leave you much if you take out 4mm max leving you with 8mm in the collet.
                How much space do you leave in between the drive dog and the strut? If it was me and only me... I would remove the plastic white washer but, that JUST ME. It is there so in case of mistake (loose collet) that it doesn't start grinding your strut to all heck.


                Originally posted by Megabiker98
                Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??
                Nortavlag Bulc

                Comment

                • ray schrauwen
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 9471

                  #68
                  Ooops, I may have mislead you to think you can just mash the drive dog against the strut. No no, make sure you leave 3-4mm space for cable shrinkage otherwise grinding will be nasty and break things.
                  Nortavlag Bulc

                  Comment

                  • Megabiker98
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2013
                    • 253

                    #69
                    Ya I know for a fact it's an m445! Lemme rephrase this in hopes of making it more understandable! Hahaha. So when I have my flex shaft where I want it to be to drive, it is pushed ALL the way into the collet. Ur saying if I move my drive dog back about 4mm it would still make good contact and the collet will still grip the shaft well?

                    Comment

                    • Megabiker98
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 253

                      #70
                      And I usually leave about 2mm inbetween my drive dog and strut
                      Quick question, moving the drive dog won't affect anything, just freeing up room correct?
                      Last edited by Megabiker98; 04-08-2013, 03:52 PM.

                      Comment

                      • ray schrauwen
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 9471

                        #71
                        Yes, freeing up room is what I'm trying to help you achieve. You have to leave a min. 8-10mm in the flex collet and you have to have a good 2-3mm space between the drive dog and strut.

                        The flex collet you have I have in my hand. When the clamp nut is removed the splines are 7.25mm long so you don't want any less than 8mm in the collet but, any more than that is doing nothing but sitting in an unclamped .150" bore. Eventually you will most likely benefit from a better cable but, this should do for now.

                        I think we are clear as mud by now right? Kidding.
                        Nortavlag Bulc

                        Comment

                        • Megabiker98
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2013
                          • 253

                          #72
                          Alright, so I was gonna move the drive dog a little, just to check it out (I made marks were it was before I moved it) but as I moved it, there's like a flat spot, for the grub screws, but the flat spot doesn't go far enough back to move the drive dog at all! I am almost positive that putting a grub screw on a rounded surface won't do anything right? (Won't do anything as in, wont contact or hold anything it's meaning to hold

                          Comment

                          • ray schrauwen
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 9471

                            #73
                            This is another snag I was thinking you may run into. You MUST have a flat spot for the set screw of the drive dog or you will go nowhere.

                            So, now if you move it back a bit, the flat spot has moved. To fix this you need to grind the flat spot further back so the set screw can hold onto something 4-shure.
                            Nortavlag Bulc

                            Comment

                            • Megabiker98
                              Senior Member
                              • Jan 2013
                              • 253

                              #74
                              Dangit, I had a feeling set screws needed a flat surface! Hahahah, going back to the loctite talk, if I applied the loctite to the nut itself, then screwed it on, it would reduce the possibility of it getting into the prop threads right???

                              Comment

                              • ray schrauwen
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Apr 2007
                                • 9471

                                #75
                                Yes it would. Are you using Blue or the weak Purple stuff? In this case Blue is better.
                                Nortavlag Bulc

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