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I explained what you would use a Y fitting for. Fun until someone smokes an ESC trying to duplicate your setup without a proper understanding of how it works. Water will follow the path of least resistance. If his ESC has a longer line and/or smaller fittings then the motor cooling jacket, the water is just going to take the easy way around the motor. Great that it works for you and I'm all about trying new things, but to suggest someone else to do the same without an understanding of possible unwanted outcomes is reckless. If it were that easy to solve the single cooling line issue don't you think more people would be doing it? There is a reason no one else is setting up their systems this way.
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"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore -
There have been a lot of threads about running these boats on 6S. As noted above, 6S on an 1800kv motor is too many RPM. You can do it, but expect a shorter lifespan. Also, when the manufacturer claims the 80A ESC is "6S", they are talking about that ESC accepting 22.2 volts. However, 80AMPS is not enough headroom to run reliably-- it is very easy to burn out the ESC. You can run 6s with a very small prop, and get the same speed as running 4S on a larger prop... once you try to increase the prop to take advange of the 6s voltage, then the amps start to spike. You will hear folks say "my boat runs fine on 6s", but you will also find a lot of folks who have fried their components doing this. You hardly hear people having issues running on 4S on stock ESC. I would highly recommend upgrading the ESC for 6S.
I have a setup guide on this boat that talks about upgrades, connectors, prop selection, and also how to do a strut mod to take out the bounce-- it is a large word doc with pictures, if anyone wants a copy email me at
[email protected]
I have a very similar guide for the Miss Geico
ChiefComment
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That is exactly right.... splitting a single water line with a "Y" config is going to starve one or the other...
I think that people are over-thinking this whole system. Has anyone ever measured the water temp on the outlet??
Anyone want to take a bet that there is no way that, in the short period of time that the water is in contact with the ESC and the Motor can, there hasn't been enough heat transfer to use up the waters capacity to carry away the heat?? In other words... the water exiting the boat is probably just luke warm at best... If anything, the water is passing through the system TOO quickly...
Some things that I KNOW help, are to:
1) Use larger water cooling lines to increase the capacity and SLOW down the water through the system
2) Open up the holes in the outlet and other fittings to, again, increase the capacity and slow down the water through the system.
3) Use only WELL PREPPED props... SHARP, THIN, and BALANCED...
4) The motor is going to get hotter than the ESC, and the hotter it gets, the more amps it draws, taxing the ESC more... Cool the motor FIRST, then the ESC.
I've been racing and beating on these boats since 2005, and I have never found the need to install dual cooling lines on anything. I have, just because it was convenient to do and was a special application, but for bashing or heat racing, one seems to be fine, if done correctly. But, then, I generally don't try to do things with power systems that they weren't designed to do. Attempting to go 60 with a RTR power system until LVC, for example...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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There seems to be some conflicting opinions on this. Ill just stick to what works for me. Lol32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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Opinions are all the same except for yours...Comment
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"Let me explain something to you." No one is disputing that it works for you, just that you are putting information out there as a one size fits all answer when that's not the case. There is a lot of experience on this board from builders and racers. No one wants to see a guy ask for help and receive advice that may cause damage to his system. If theories were not challenged and questioned the threads would be full of misinformation and become useless.
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike FioreComment
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Your right. Just disregard my above post."Let me explain something to you." No one is disputing that it works for you, just that you are putting information out there as a one size fits all answer when that's not the case. There is a lot of experience on this board from builders and racers. No one wants to see a guy ask for help and receive advice that may cause damage to his system. If theories were not challenged and questioned the threads would be full of misinformation and become useless.
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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I mentioned setup a while back and it seemed to be taken with a grain of salt...
If you're running 6s and running higher speeds, the prop strut needs to be raised higher for more midrange slip and better top end efficiency with less load on the motor.
If your prop is buried too deep, You WILL roast your motor.'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT w/ Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport EFI - 240hp - 95mph
ProBoat Blackjack 29 - 58mph, Traxxas Villain, Traxxas Slash 4x4, Align T-Rex 450pro, Blade mSR, Blade mCPx, Dynam Cessna 182, Blitzworks F/A-18, UM P-51, UM SU-26XPComment
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I use 5s and m445 never temperature problems
Protect your equipment make all your calculations to maximum voltage (cell 4.2v), Motor and Revolutions per minute (no more than 50,000 rpm)
Since each cell is 3.7v (medium = nominal) a 4s LiPo battery has a medium voltage of 14.8v,
a fully charged voltage of 16.8v and a maximum discharged voltage of 12.0v before damage occurs
a 6s LiPo battery has a medium voltage of 22.2v
a fully charged voltage of 25.2v and a maximum discharged voltage of 18.0v before damage occurs
LVC 3.4v/cell cut off no 2.9v o 3v before damage occurs
STO 3.85v/cell
no load
the first minute
4s 2200kv x 16.8v = 36,960 rpm max
5s 2200kv x 21.0v = 46,200 rpm max is too much
6s 2200kv x 25.2v = 55,440 rpm max bearing damage
4s 1500kv x 16.8v = 25,200 rpm max conservative
5s 1500kv x 21.0v = 31,500 rpm max = 4s 1800kv x 16.8v = 30,240 rpm max
6s 1500kv x 25.2v = 37,800 rpm max = 5s 1800kv x 21.0v = 37,800 rpm max
6s 1800kv x 25.2v = 45,360 rpm max is too muchLast edited by mannytx1; 01-28-2014, 10:30 PM.Comment
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PLEASE stop suggesting that the stock motor is capable of 40,000+ RPM on 6s power, because it's NOT! Put your calculator away, because those numbers assume ZERO mechanical motor load and ZERO voltage sag.
In the REAL WORLD, the 6s pack instantly sags several volts under load, and hydrodynamic resistance further limits the RPM well below the "rated" no-load KV figures.
Show me a stock BJ29 on 6s that turns more than a measured 38,000 RPM under running load, and I will eat fiberglass for dinner.
Mine ran nearly 60 mph with the stock ESC and prop, and it didn't turn more than 38K peak RPM at speed. I have ran it several dozen times on 6s with repeated wide-open passes, with no issues. The motor feels (and smells) a bit hot, but it runs great.
Renember... Professional engineers developed AND tested these products.'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT w/ Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport EFI - 240hp - 95mph
ProBoat Blackjack 29 - 58mph, Traxxas Villain, Traxxas Slash 4x4, Align T-Rex 450pro, Blade mSR, Blade mCPx, Dynam Cessna 182, Blitzworks F/A-18, UM P-51, UM SU-26XPComment
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That's right, just for design ideal value, no load
I understand your frustration with the Proboat 1800KV motors, no corecto kv
I prefer Proboat 1500kv, Real +1600 kv if these are good
I do not need more speedMiss Geico (1).jpgMiss Geico (2).jpgMiss Geico (3).jpg
Miss Geico 4S Prop M445 o' x447(modified)
modified hull, no more WA WA WA .....Comment
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