Miss Geico 29 ugprading ESC's

[Ozzypatrol]

HI Folks,

Looking at playing with an old hull I have, want to build it up to be a quick bunky.

At the moment the boat is a stock V2 with 5.5mm bullets all round, X642 (S&B) and a 50C constant discharge 4s set up. Motor is still the original 1500kV. First up I plan on moving to 5 or 6S depending on how I can get the weight distribution and build up my skill with setup and driving. So first upgrade will be the ESC.


A couple of questions about ESC's:

-Food for thought - The blackjack can run 6s with its 1800kV motor and 60A ESC. Is this a cost saving thing? Why?
-Can you get an ESC that is too big for your set up? ie. 300A esc on 6s for 1500kV (other then cost)
-I have no idea on the motor I will run down the track, from what I hear the higher the cell count the lower the kV to give more torque?
-Torn between the Swordfish 200A, 240A and the seaking 180A v3. I did notice neither swordfish had no external caps, is this an issue?
-My stock set up uses the lipo's to power the receiver, other then having to have an external pack with a new ESC, are there any advantages/disadvantages to having a seperate receiver pack?

From what I have read on the net the biggest issue with both ESC's is the LVC being way off. Now I would prefer to have an all integral LVC that will just slow the boat like it does with the PB ESC so I know it is time to come in (rather then an external LV beeper). The MG stays very dry even with a flip so it is more about reducing clutter in the hull.


Cheers,

BJ

[Ozzypatrol]

Bump


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[lenny]

Do you want a good 6s setup ?
My buddy made his into nice sport runner and is using the Seaking 130a HV esc and love's it,
Also he is using a very good but cheap motor form HK and said it is a great motor.
There is some video's of it running on hear,
If you need some links let me know.

[Ozzypatrol]

Yeh want something that will be reliable and fairly quick. Links to vids would be great. Why 130a and not 180?


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[BHChieftain]

A couple of questions about ESC's:

-Food for thought - The blackjack can run 6s with its 1800kV motor and 60A ESC. Is this a cost saving thing? Why?
-Can you get an ESC that is too big for your set up? ie. 300A esc on 6s for 1500kV (other then cost)
-I have no idea on the motor I will run down the track, from what I hear the higher the cell count the lower the kV to give more torque?
-Torn between the Swordfish 200A, 240A and the seaking 180A v3. I did notice neither swordfish had no external caps, is this an issue?
-My stock set up uses the lipo's to power the receiver, other then having to have an external pack with a new ESC, are there any advantages/disadvantages to having a seperate receiver pack?

From what I have read on the net the biggest issue with both ESC's is the LVC being way off. Now I would prefer to have an all integral LVC that will just slow the boat like it does with the PB ESC so I know it is time to come in (rather then an external LV beeper). The MG stays very dry even with a flip so it is more about reducing clutter in the hull.


Cheers,

BJ

Hi BJ,
Despite what the manual says, you are asking for trouble running the blackjack on 6S. The motor is 1800kv, the stock ESC is 80A. There are many posts of people burning up the ESC on 6S. If you run a small enough prop it will work, but that defeats the purpose. If you start to use the bigger props, then you start to pull a lot of amps-- and what kills the ESC is usually a spike created when the boat hops out of the water, unloads the prop, then re-enters the water.

You can't go "too big" on the ESC ampwise, but you can waste money if you go too big, and the lower cost chinese ESCs have been known to die for no good reason, so don't over invest there. I think the seaking 180A ESC is a great unit for the proboat impluse, geico, and blackjack on 6S.

Note that the after market ESCs are not NEARLY as water resistant as the stock ESC (even the seaking 180A which claims to be water resistant is not that water resistant). So you usually need to treat them to improve them surviving getting wet.

Most ESCs have programmable LVCs, so that should not be a problem. On the BEC-- most are limited to 4S, so if you want to run 5 or 6 you disconnect the middle red wire on the ESC to RX connector, and replace it with a dedicated RX battery pack or external BEC.

Also, 1800KV on 6S is almost 40K rpm which is too high for a long term reliable setup. 1800KV on 5S = 1500kv on 6 s = 33.3RPM which is a good target. Too many RPMs make any vibration problem really bad, results in premature wear on motor bearings and strut. You can do it, but be prepared to replace components as they wear out. Only recommended for SAW setups, not sport running.

Chief

[Ozzypatrol]

Awesome info mate, hit the nail on the head with what I needed to know. Thanks heaps. Last thing any brand of esc to avoid? Feel free to pm if ya don't want to post


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[angrycat]

i am running the bj29 with a seaking 130a hv and am very pleased with the throttle smoothness, the adjustability on it is not bad, just wish it had an option for data logging and adding cap banks. i am also running a turnigy sk3 edf motor from hk, the stock 1800kv 6 pole motor is extremely inefficient at high rpm so it heats up quick and stays hot. motor went after a while so i went for the turnigy 1900kv for 45 bucks and it runs much cooler on 6s. im also running a s&b octura m440 because of the high kv. i might swap it out for the same motor just a 1600kv i have as a spare and see how that runs with a x442. if i were you i would take everyone's advice and go with a lower kv motor and prop for it. much more reliable and half the tuning hassle

[angrycat]

still have some tuning to do but this was with the shaft binding in the strut bushing and no ride tuning after replacing the motor and esc

[Ozzypatrol]

Too easy, will be getting the SK 180 V3. And as close to a 1600kV motor I can find. Willing to spend $80-100 on a motor. How do you determine can size required, just get something similar to the factory 1500kV? If someone wants to link one from the OSE shop that'd be great. Hoping to order asap so it can get shipped to Australia as we are taking the boats away in 2 weeks.

[BHChieftain]

Hi,
Sorry, had a typo in my email-- I meant 1500kv motor not 1600kv (1500kv on 6s= 33.3RPM). But 1600kv is also ok. I edited my earlier reply to correct that.

I would recommend the proboat 1500kv motor used in the miss geico:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=dh-prb3310

But it looks like OSE is out of stock. You should be able to find the motor at Horizon Hobby-- but under the Dynamite brand.

Chief

[Ozzypatrol]

well I have ordered a seaking V3 180 esc, will run the stock pb 1500kV. Just need to get my hands on a couple of S/B x440 and x442 props. Thanks for the input

[Ozzypatrol]

Ok got my seaking 180 v3. Can I run my x642 prop with the stock 1500kV motor (with bullets) on 5 and 6 s?


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[Ozzypatrol]

Bump, can I run my s&b x642 on 6s with the 180A esc and 1590kv stock motor?. All connections are bullets


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[hydro_pyro]

1800KV on 6S is almost 40K rpm which is too high for a long term reliable setup. 1800KV on 5S = 1500kv on 6 s = 33.3RPM which is a good target. Too many RPMs make any vibration problem really bad, results in premature wear on motor bearings and strut. You can do it, but be prepared to replace components as they wear out. Only recommended for SAW setups, not sport running.

Chief

The KV rating is a NO-LOAD rating. On 6s, my BJ29 runs around 32000 rpm in the real world.

[Ozzypatrol]

So is tht a yes? I will be buying new props just waiting for supplier to get them in stock


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