Just a heads up - make sure you fill in the hole in the hatch (for the antenna). The stock hole is obscenely big and will let your boat fill up in seconds.
Andre
I have some questions boys.
1. When you use your BJ do you have a grease on transom and on steerable drive after the run?
Or this is because i use some kind of different grease ?
2. Any water from the stuffing tube inside the hull (only if use pro boat grease)?
And the last one - what is the difference between the normal clear scotch tape and that tape that model stores sell to seal the hatch? Is there any difference?
I start from there, where the engineering thought intend to stop. The sky is just a border between
I have some questions boys.
1. When you use your BJ do you have a grease on transom and on steerable drive after the run? YUP
Or this is because i use some kind of different grease ?
2. Any water from the stuffing tube inside the hull (only if use pro boat grease)? Most of the time just a drop or two
And the last one - what is the difference between the normal clear scotch tape and that tape that model stores sell to seal the hatch? Is there any difference? I would think the Hobby type has a better bond.. but scratch both and get 3M clear electricl tape. Was turned onto it about a year ago and thats all I now use. And its CHEAP!!!!!
I gave up waiting for the vids to load... I though Youtube was sometimes bad....
What batts are you using. Sounds like they arent powerful enough to handle the draws. If they are lipo, 20C minimum... but get the highest C rating you can afford at the time. I run 30C mostly, but can tell quite a temp difference in my BJ between 20 and 30C.
I gave up waiting for the vids to load... I though Youtube was sometimes bad....
What batts are you using. Sounds like they arent powerful enough to handle the draws. If they are lipo, 20C minimum... but get the highest C rating you can afford at the time. I run 30C mostly, but can tell quite a temp difference in my BJ between 20 and 30C.
Hi -Energy NiMh 7,2 volts 5000 mAh from Ripmax, not mentioned anyting about draws on the stickers neither 15, 20 or 30C - nothing.
Get yourself some Lipos and you will have a whole new boat. HobbyCity.com, Turnigy Lipos. A pair of 2S 5000mah 30C would be a great start. And they are right around 30 dollars each. You will not be sorry.
Nice paint.
I have been following your posts and I really thought you have up graded your
hardware and batts.
saw your vids and to be honest, not impressed.
I know $ is tight these days, but take your time and build your boat the way you think.
Hell it took me a while to get A GOOD charger, and I'm still waiting on LIPOS.
The paint i'm doing won't come close to yours, I'm more graphics then detail I guess,
Although my harley had bolts like that, w/o the skull.
GOOD LUCK AND GET LIPOS , THEN YOU WILL SEE SOME REAL SPEED.
LATER BOBBY G
/ AKA G-UNIT
Thanks for the comments boys!
I really think to get serious Lipos and chager.
Already waiting for new hardware without u-joint , but sitting on same place with same holes - a friend of mine workig on laser cutter and will be ready soon i guess.
Also looking for an octura X442 sharped and ballanced and new flex shaft.
For now i am happy, because the boat was sitting too long without a water and she already made her first run without a drop of water inside the hull.
Best regards to all and big thanks to G-Unit for the bolts
p.s. because that was the first run the esc was programmed to deliver 80% power - in logarythm mode.
I start from there, where the engineering thought intend to stop. The sky is just a border between
Waiting for IMAX B6 AC charger and pair of 7,4v Flightmax 4500 mAh 30C Li Po from Hobby King and propeller octura X642 sharpened and ballanced by "egneg".
Last edited by snaychev; 05-05-2010, 06:02 AM.
Reason: added info
I start from there, where the engineering thought intend to stop. The sky is just a border between
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