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Problem: engine cuts out at 1/2 tank. Checked for air leaks and adjusted carb, still cuts out. Any tips? TIA
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any deterioration of the fuel line? sound to me like a crack in the pickup line in the fuel tank. when the tank is full, no problems... once it gets to the level of the cracked line, sucks air. OOOORRRRRR.......LOL is there a check valve in the tank to allow the tank to release vaccuum form the tank? tank might be pulling vaccuum, and starving carb...Comment
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I just picked up one of these for cheap because people don't understand gas boats. It's in great shape only ran twice. I brought it home striped out the stock motor, clutch, and driveline. Installed a new zenoah g300pum that was modified by Mike Ross, used a speedmaster collet in place of the clutch, installed a speedmaster drive shaft, and a prop works 7016/3-400-LL. I took it out to break in the motor today and I like this boat a lot. At a minimum through the clutch in the trash change out the driveline and prop, you will have an reliable boat that you can enjoy.Comment
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I have recently picked up a Zelos 48, and felt like I needed to respond to this thread ( although it is quite old). When I ran my boat for the first time out of the box, I had the same symptom reported here ( stab the throttle and nothing but revving to the moon). I debated whether or not this was clutch slip or cavitation, and remembered the debate in this thread. I dropped the strut 1/8" from the factory location, and the boat drove entirely different. The prop now digs hard, and the boat is decently quick ( 37mph or so) running very wet and with some power left on the table carb tuning wise. I expect this boat to be in the low 40s without too much work, and it should hit 50 with a well worked prop and finished tune.
The good:
The boat seems well built. Finish is great looking, all parts look decent hardware wise. Engine is strong running and has been consistent and responsive to tuning out of the box.
The not so good:
The cooling system is not the best. The line for the cylinder head needs to be bored out for sure, and I am contemplating a dual inlet head and dual inlet rudder.
Rudder deflection with the stock radio is pretty bad ( and no end point adjustment).
Forget about turning left. This boat has serious right side percentage, and loves to rip turns to the right. Turn left under power in any capacity and things get dicey. This could be counterbalanced with weight, but its not that serious.
Some video from today:
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48 cat
clock wise is normal course for rc boats. the props turn counter-clockwise and the prop acts as a paddle wheel, pulling the transom to the left. this has a tendency to pull the boat to the right and turning the rudder adds to this pulling right. going left is going against this . that's why it doesn't like to go left. by the way, what is rudder deflection??Comment
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I get whats going on with the forces back there, just being spoiled not being able to rip the boat both directions hahaha. Rudder deflection is pretty much throw, on a middle or high end radio you can just mess with the EPA ( end point adjustment) and make it so the servo throws further in one or both directions for sharper turns. Based on what I have seen from this boat, I would probly leave the throw alone for the left turns, and maybe crank in some more throw for right turns making the boat a touch more aggressive. Just my .02
That said I'm resisting the urge to just shop for more prop for this thing and cheat my way to 50mph, however I want to try to do it the "hard" way first truly box stock.Comment
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