Preparing for my SV27BL

[SoFloRC]

So I am set on getting my new Supervee and I just had a few questions about pre run preparation for my boat.

First I think I have seen a few people that say they run a 3S1P and a 2S1P in the SV and it max's out the 18.5V capable in the stock set up. This would be ideal if I could do this because I recently bought a 3S 5250 30C pack and I would prefer to just have to buy one 2S 5250 30C to match it instead of having to buy two new batteries. So if this works how does the boat balance? Is the weight difference significant on one side from the other?

I also know that I am going to have to get a voltage cutoff but I was curious if I have to purchase one for each battery or how that works? Will having a 3S and a 2S affect this at all?

I have read on here about putting some type of epoxy on the inside of the hull prior to running for the first time. So I was curious what is a good epoxy I can purchase and if you guys know of a specific one that works well and is easy to find? Is there anything else I should do to the hull that will benefit me that is easy to do?

If you guys have any other pre first run tips or just any tips in general I would greatly appreciate your input. I look forward to getting into rc boating and hope to post some cool vids when I eventualy get things right.

[H&MWill]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=sv27

[SoFloRC]

Thanks, I think that covers all of it other than the battery question. So is it ok to run a 3S and 2S together with the stock setup? Will I just need one voltage cutoff?

[785boats]

Yep. Just one L.V.C. Make sure it can handle 5 cells though.
It is also advisable to use a separate battery or UBEC for the receiver & disconnect the red wire from the ESCs receiver plug.

Also, Hold the boat in the water & make sure no water leaks in around the stuffing tube or where any hardware screws enter the transom.

Next, make sure water flows through the cooling system easily. Use a large syringe (without the needle) plugged into the water outlet tubing.

Next, pressure test the cooling system making sure that no water leaks from the threaded nipples on the ESC in the radio box, or from under the cooling jacket on the motor. Same as above but block the pickups on the rudder once water has started to flow out & keep pressing the syringe hard.
Fix any leaks.

Move the antenna off the hatch to the solid part of the hull & seal the hole in the hatch.

Put the receiver in a balloon & seal with a cable tie

And lastly...
ALWAYS TAPE THE HATCH DOWN FOR EVERY RUN.

We had a proud owner of a new SV come to the lake for its first run & after only two or three laps the radio box was 1/3 full of water & the hull had about two cups of water sloshing around in it. Everything mentioned above leaked. Ruined his day.
Cheers.
Paul.

[SoFloRC]

Thank you for the help. I am going to tear it down right off the bat and make sure everything is sealed and then finish the inside with epoxy. If anyone has any tips please feel free to let me know. I will need all the help I can get!

[785boats]

Test it first. Yours might be fine. No sense doing something that you don't have to.
Paul.

[SoFloRC]

Why is it advised to use a different battery for the reciver?

[785boats]

SoFloRC.
Please accept my apologies for this late response, but I only just saw your last post. I should learn to check more carefully on these boards.
In answer to your question, if you run more than 4s Lipo or, 12 cells, the BEC circuit in the ESC has a hard time reducing the higher voltage down to the 5v required for the receiver.
This can cause the BEC component on the circuit board to overheat & fail.
So by removing the red wire & using an external battery or UBEC for the receiver power, the problem won't arise.
Again, this is only required if you intend to use more than 4s Lipo or more than 12 cells.
How did you go anyway? Did you have any leakage problems? No doubt you've run it by now.
Cheers.
Paul.