SV27 LiPO

[laxoholic93]

I am new to rc boating and I just recently bought a SV27. I am looking to buy LiPO batteries from the start instead of NiMH. I've been looking at the Venom LiPOs but I'm not sure as to what type would be best. Btw, everything is stock.

Thanks for the help.

[Brushless55]

Venom are over priced in my opinion
these could work well with a stock SV

http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9172&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack

[laxoholic93]

oh dang, thanks!
Is there a recommended charger for it?

[Brushless55]

if you cheack around on that site they have some good prices on chargers to

[laxoholic93]

Thanks man, you just saved me a fortune!

[Brushless55]

[Diesel6401]

I am new to rc boating and I just recently bought a SV27. I am looking to buy LiPO batteries from the start instead of NiMH. I've been looking at the Venom LiPOs but I'm not sure as to what type would be best. Btw, everything is stock.

Thanks for the help.

Yea stay away from Venom lipos. I run them in my cars but i would never run venom lipos in my boats. They don't handle the amps loads very well which = JMO

Stick to the website brushless mentioned. Lot of good items on that site and save a ton of money. I personnaly don't run anything less than 30c in my boats but thats just personnal preference, but don't order anything less than 20c for boats, the amp load will be too high for the batts. Welcome to the forum and welcome to FE

[pugman2]

what do you have to do to your stock electrics to run them

[Brushless55]

what do you have to do to your stock electrics to run them

Nada

[cpgise]

You might want to time your runs if you don't a have a LV cut off.

[wizard122]

Please run a LVC thats avalable from here at OSE or Kintec

[Chevycruizer]

Before 1st run

Lax,

Hey - I am new to boats also and just to save you a little time and headache I suggest the following (none of which I take credit for, but what I learned from this site after I had a problem because I didn’t do it first). If you need help on any one area just ask and I will try and find the threads.

Set up your drive line and trim angles. Stinger (adjustable drive shaft part) should be in line with the bottom of the boat. Use a straight edge alone the (maybe keel) bottom most part and adjust stinger accordingly. Mine was too high from the factory (boat was hopping out of the water). Then adjust the trim tabs to neutral also. You will have to move them according to your personal preference and water conditions but that is a good starting point. Also make sure they are not hanging too low or high where they meet the back of the boat. Someone on the site mentioned they had one that was 1 or 2 mm below and caused a lot of handling problems.

Next remove those battery trays completely and put down some Velcro. Now you can mount your batteries to get the center of gravity (CG) where you want it. I have read that a good CG is between 7 and 8 inches from the back of the boat (stern maybe). I actually used a fine tip sharpie and made little marks on the bottom between 7 and 8 inches in 1/4 inch increments.

Before you stick the Velcro down take some time and waterproof the interior of the boat. Use thinned epoxy or Zpoxy finishing resin to coat all of the wood and especially the end grain. You might also want to lay in some fiberglass strips along each side of the hull for reinforcement. I have not done this yet but I ordered the stuff and will do it soon. Take all of the hardware off the back and seal that with RTV. I suggest flow able windshield sealant; you should be able to get it at your local auto parts store. I like the stuff because it is clear and is real thin and will flow into small spaces. I put a little on each bolt and then I put some on each part and reassemble. Wipe off any extra that squirts out.

Make sure you add some more flotation to the hull. I used pool noodle because I have a pool. (Don’t tell the wife where that blue noodle went. LOL) I put some behind the battery and more in the nose. I also glued a chunk to the hatch incase that separates. The pieces in the back are only 1/2 a circle of noodle and maybe 3 inches long and they work. I flipped it and it took 30+ minutes to drift to shore and the back hardly went under water.

Tape that hatch down, each and every run. I paid big money for actual RC boat hatch tape but you can use electrical tape and it is much cheaper and comes in colors. My hatch has not come off but the amount of water that got into the hull was like big time different between being taped and not taped on flips. I also took a piece of fuel line (cooling line) about 2 inches long and installed it on my antenna tube where it meets the waterproof box. It is just long enough to stick out of the hole in the hatch. The idea it to make the water entry point much smaller to slow the speed and amount of water that enters when you are flipped. I know my antenna hole was pretty big and the fuel line takes up the space nicely.

As the other guys have already said get a LVC. I have not run lipos yet, but they came in the mail today so I will have to change some connectors around and will post the differences. I don’t have a GPS yet so the difference will be kind of seat of the pants, ya know. I also would not recomment low C ratings in the batts. I personally have only ordered 40C and 45C for this boat (I do plan on upgrading the motor, so maybe a 20C is fine for stock). Again, I have no boat experience but have flown electric planes for years and if you pull to many amps through a low C battery you are asking for problems.

And yes Hobby King rules (aka HC or HK). Just make sure you research you purchases ahead of time because there return policy stinks. Make a membership with them and the price will be a little lower and if they are out of stock and you add an item to your wishlist they will email you when it comes into stock.

I hope this helps and I am sure that I am forgetting some things that the other guys will point out. Looking over this list it seems like a lot but if you do it before your first run you will have a better running and longer lasting boat. Honestly you could have everything completed in an evening so it can dry overnight.

Thanks,

John

[wizard122]

Hi and Welcome Looks like you got it right hope you have a lot of fun with your new ride keep up the posts and add some photos to show off your stuff. If you like check out mine theres lots of photos and good info Wiz

[Brushless55]

Hey chevycruizer. welcome to OSE
take a look around and you well se a lot of us race or know how to set our boats up to race and sport running
and in some threads here you will find some great info about these SV's
we build some fast boats on this forum and a few of us have SV boats running near 50mph!

[Diesel6401]

what do you have to do to your stock electrics to run them

For added safety you def should run the lipo shield, its not needed just highly recommened. Last thing you want to do is over discharge a lipo. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hld-32&cat=136