batteries and run times????

[BHChieftain]

On the power system side-- the aquacraft motors and ESCs have a great rep, and they are frequently used as power systems for p-spec limited classes (but usually the UL1 2030kv motor + 60A marine ESC). I use it in my woodstuff 29" OPC racing tunnel, and will be going into my p-spec limited hyro (hull under construction now by Randy at BBY racing!)

Chief

[rockford]

Hi Chief,
thank you for your observations, but i'd like to know did the Revolt have its "own" problems as Spartan have, eg.: burning the ESC, slipping the collet driver, behavior on the water?
The RPMs you've reporting can be regolated by changening motors with their ESCs.
Thanks again, salute all Niky.

i have not had any problems with my boat and as far as water resistance and driving problems it seems preety solid on the water, I have a futaba setup and cannot comment on the stock radio but i was running my boat the other day and it hit a wave wrong and the lid blew off and was nose up and it took 20-30 min before i was able to get it back to shore with my villain but the esc was still working but servo and receiver didn't so i put it in rice over night and was good to go. if your thinking of a revolt i really like mine my only complaint is basically this post 3 min of run time on two batteries is kinda gay im used to my race trucks where a single battery is around 7 min or so and my buggy is like 15 or so. But overall seems like a good boat exept the battery tray is chinsy and tears easily so that will be the next upgrade along with either a balloon or traxxas water proof receiver cover and waterproof servo

[Bduncan]

Here is revolt with 180amp esc stock motor 5s 5450mah 120c pack. Prather 220. 6s is too much for revolt.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fnh90v5wuuv9lmk/20130303_170852.mp4

[jstolz]

I suspect that by running the boat for too long of a time you have damaged the batteries. Puffing the batteries is a condition of abuse. Boats draws lots of amps compared to cars. So, your car will run a lot longer with similar capacity batteries. Running the Revolt on a 5600mah battery for 4 minutes is really pushing the battery too much. You want to have about 20 to 25 percent left in the battery to have it last. You don't want to run the boat to voltage cutoff. If you do the battery could be damaged.

[BHChieftain]

Rockford--
Monos have a lot of hull in the water, so it takes a lot of energy to push them. The big plus of monos is you can run them in a lot of chop and also on windy days.

If you want a boat with longer runtimes, consider a Cat for your next boat. This type of hull requries less energy to push thru the water. My son gets over 5min of runtime on his 5000mah hyperion packs using a speedy x642 prop on his stock Miss Geico. On a slower prop he can get over 6min.

Downside of the cat vs. mono-- cats hate wind... note, they still run pretty well in light chop, but not really big chop.

Chief

[Bduncan]

I have no problems running my revolt on a good 6000mah 4s for 8 minutes. Dual water pick ups. Separately cooling esc and motor. 42 55 grim

[Bduncan]

I have a revolt and a spartan. The spartan is an ok boat but by the time you add the mods that make it a better boat you may as well purchase a rtr 35 inch mono fiberglass hull set up. My revolt is etremely fast on 5s (180 amps esc). It runs close to the edge on 5s. You would likely needs to run two 6000 mah 3s in series for a 6s set up. I wouldnt do it. I suspect you could pull full throttle for a second or two before the boat gets too loose. Also, the added weight of two packs is just not worth it when the boat is extremely fast on 1 5s pack. If you flip the boat you the batteries are likely to knock open the hatch. The revolt hatch is quite difficult to latch down. When I started running a boats I would heavily modify them to make them faster often powering them beyond design limits only to figure out I should have built a custom boat tht is reliable.

[metoo]

You don't want to run the boat to voltage cutoff. If you do the battery could be damaged.

Isn't the whole point of LVC to protect your battery? What is the factory LVC set at? I assume it's not programmable, right? I've never had an issue running my cars to LVC, but then again, I can set the voltage at which that occurs, with exception of my Traxxas 1/16 Rally VXL.

[metoo]

Isn't the whole point of LVC to protect your battery? What is the factory LVC set at? I assume it's not programmable, right? I've never had an issue running my cars to LVC, but then again, I can set the voltage at which that occurs, with exception of my Traxxas 1/16 Rally VXL.

Ooooh, I see now that Aquacraft has a terrible setting for the LVC. According to the manual, you should notice a "stutter bump" in the performance when you hit 12V [which is already too low at 3.0V/cell]. Then there is conflicting information. The manual says, "Low Voltage Cutoff: 11.6V " and "It also has a 10.8V battery cut off safety system that shuts the power down to the motor to avoid damaging the batteries." Either way, guess what. You're already in damage zone at that point.

I need to find one of THESE, but for 4S and adjustable. If not adjustable, with a more reasonable 3.3V/cell 50% cut-off, so that I can still get the boat back to me. If you know of one, please chime in. I prefer not to sell the original ESC.

[Heaving Earth]

Ooooh, I see now that Aquacraft has a terrible setting for the LVC. According to the manual, you should notice a "stutter bump" in the performance when you hit 12V [which is already too low at 3.0V/cell]. Then there is conflicting information. The manual says, "Low Voltage Cutoff: 11.6V " and "It also has a 10.8V battery cut off safety system that shuts the power down to the motor to avoid damaging the batteries." Either way, guess what. You're already in damage zone at that point.

I need to find one of THESE, but for 4S and adjustable. If not adjustable, with a more reasonable 3.3V/cell 50% cut-off, so that I can still get the boat back to me. If you know of one, please chime in. I prefer not to sell the original ESC.

The batteries drop lower when they're under load (motor spinning prop in water). When it hits lvc, then bring it in and check your batteries, they will be above 3.0v per cell.

[BHChieftain]

I don't think voltage is a reliable way to measure the remaining pack capacity. Lipos should be targeted to keep 20% capacity in reserve, dipping into this range risks damaging the packs. If folks are running until they hit the AQ LVC, I'd think about checking how many MAH are put back into the packs to see how far down they are really running the packs.

Chief

[Evesniper]

Isn't the whole point of LVC to protect your battery? What is the factory LVC set at? I assume it's not programmable, right? I've never had an issue running my cars to LVC, but then again, I can set the voltage at which that occurs, with exception of my Traxxas 1/16 Rally VXL.

LVC is the absolute minimum a LIpO can go, before dmg occurs the the cell(s).
SO the LESS you run A LiPo down. The better. Even with high end LiPo's

[rockford]

so let me get on the same page if you want to leave 20-25% left then lets say my packs are 5600 i should be able to use 4200 mah and should be around 3 1/2 min, this is calculating off of my boat yesterday running 2 min and charging about 1200 mah back into each pack. fyi my boat is all stock sometimes i run a 45x68 prop which keeps it at a decent speed for now

[BHChieftain]

I target 15%-20% myself
Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2