Minimono Upgrade Drive Shaft DIY

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • MiniMorris
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2012
    • 23

    #31
    Originally posted by MAMBA2200
    those stock couplers are made out of a very soft metal the set screws are junk i tossed mine never used it if you want it i will send it to you
    Thanks for the offer, I will probably do a flex shaft, but if I don't, I'll pm you.

    Comment

    • tlandauer
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2011
      • 5666

      #32
      I got it, you want to up grade. I totally agree with MAMBA2200 that the soft metal is very weak, I have stripped many set screws. In a nut shell, I hate couplers! They pinch the cable and with a thin wire you have to make sure the set screws from opposite sides have to be set equally . Collets are the way for me. And I can see why you want to up grade to a flex cable.
      Good luck!
      Too many boats, not enough time...

      Comment

      • MiniMorris
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2012
        • 23

        #33
        I'm still confused on how to replace the stuffing tube. How do you drill out the holders? When you take out the old tube, did the tube holder break from the boat or the s. tube? How do you make the hole bigger for the new tube?

        Comment

        • tlandauer
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2011
          • 5666

          #34
          I can't answer you intelligently since I don't have the boat, from AQ's pic. I see that there is a battery platfom on top of the holder. But I do know that when people replacing the tube, assuming that the holder is already no longer holding the tube, they heat the s. tube with a soldering iron until the epoxy at the transom exit hole starts to get soft. It is a tricky operation, too much heat you risk to damage the hull.
          Also, the boat you have I assume is plastic? I have a Rio which is plastic and AQ ueses a white glue to secure the s.tube. Epoxy is not used in this case.
          As far as the holder is concerned, in my case it was a wooden ( Pursuit) trangle holder with a hole in the middle for the s. tube, I used Dremal with a grinding disc to cut the top open, so the only issue I had to contend with was the epoxy at the transom exit hole.
          Sorry, I am no help at all, just want to tell you the heating process.
          Too many boats, not enough time...

          Comment

          • MAMBA2200
            I need a scooby snack
            • Jul 2012
            • 1202

            #35
            It will come loose from the boat the holders will stay in place just grab and twist little at a time and it will come loose take a flat screwdriver and slowly remove the plate that covers the tube and then remove the tube

            Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
            Im Only Responsible For What I Say Not For What You Understand

            Comment

            • MiniMorris
              Junior Member
              • Dec 2012
              • 23

              #36
              So with the electronics tray removed, I heat the tube, twist the stock stuffing tube until it comes loose, Correct?? Then how do you drill the out the wood tube holder between motor mount and the exit hole of the stuffing tube?

              Comment

              • MAMBA2200
                I need a scooby snack
                • Jul 2012
                • 1202

                #37
                You dont have to heat it just twist it and i used a body reamer to make the holes larger but u need it to fit tight goin back in so little ream then test fit dont take to much but if u do just fill with epoxy to seal it back

                Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                Im Only Responsible For What I Say Not For What You Understand

                Comment

                • tlandauer
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 5666

                  #38
                  Originally posted by MAMBA2200
                  It will come loose from the boat the holders will stay in place just grab and twist little at a time and it will come loose take a flat screwdriver and slowly remove the plate that covers the tube and then remove the tube

                  Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                  +1 on this method.
                  Sorry if I did cause confusion, I was relating to the removal of s. tube from a FG Hull with epoxy, it is different from the boat you are working on. Please disregard the "heating process".
                  Just as I thought, I caused more harm than good!
                  Too many boats, not enough time...

                  Comment

                  • MiniMorris
                    Junior Member
                    • Dec 2012
                    • 23

                    #39
                    Originally posted by MAMBA2200
                    You dont have to heat it just twist it and i used a body reamer to make the holes larger but u need it to fit tight goin back in so little ream then test fit dont take to much but if u do just fill with epoxy to seal it back

                    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                    Alrighty that makes total sense! THANK YOU!

                    Comment

                    • MAMBA2200
                      I need a scooby snack
                      • Jul 2012
                      • 1202

                      #40
                      Anytime

                      Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                      Im Only Responsible For What I Say Not For What You Understand

                      Comment

                      • MiniMorris
                        Junior Member
                        • Dec 2012
                        • 23

                        #41
                        Well, I thought I was done with my N00by questions but I guess not.. I was wondering when you switch to the octura prop listed, do you have to switch escs to keep it cool? Im planning to make a motor cooler like the one in the pic, but worried about the esc temps. Is there any way to stick to the stock esc?

                        DSC01578.jpg

                        DSC01579.jpg

                        Comment

                        • MAMBA2200
                          I need a scooby snack
                          • Jul 2012
                          • 1202

                          #42
                          You dont have to change the prop but if you do you can put a seaking 35a for really cheap thats what i did

                          Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                          Im Only Responsible For What I Say Not For What You Understand

                          Comment

                          • MiniMorris
                            Junior Member
                            • Dec 2012
                            • 23

                            #43
                            Originally posted by MAMBA2200
                            You dont have to change the prop but if you do you can put a seaking 35a for really cheap thats what i did

                            Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                            To save... um... $8.. Would a 25a seaking work just fine too? Does the new prop improve performance by that much? I feel if im going to upgrade the esc, I should put on an even bigger prop, just to take advantage of the extra $8 I spent.

                            Comment

                            • MAMBA2200
                              I need a scooby snack
                              • Jul 2012
                              • 1202

                              #44
                              Go with the 35a

                              Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
                              Im Only Responsible For What I Say Not For What You Understand

                              Comment

                              • MiniMorris
                                Junior Member
                                • Dec 2012
                                • 23

                                #45
                                Ok.
                                Last edited by MiniMorris; 01-08-2013, 07:19 PM.

                                Comment

                                Working...