Salt water boat build question?

[Beaux]

When I built my pirate i put one layer of regular fiber glass under the deck, one where the motor would mount and one under the hatch just because. It was pretty stout already.
I think you will be pleased with the quality. If you need anything feel free to ask.

[Rumpelhardt]

Any one have a Delta Force hull in orange? I'd like to see what shade of orange it is.

[Beaux]

Mine was white.If you like orange. At the auto parts store in a rattle can, there is a chevy block orange. One is really orange and one is kinda of orange. Hope this helps.

[srislash]

Here you go0B708DA0-A685-4FA4-9533-BEF187C14214.jpg

[785boats]

There's some pics of their orange boats on this link if it's any help.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Delta+Force+boats&rlz=1C1WPZB_enAU728AU728&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiblN_DnZbXAhXJj5QKHctRA_gQ_AUICigB&biw=1719&bih=873

[rol243]

I have the Green one in pic from r/c boat builder but in White 53 inch. very very good handling hull .

[ScarabChris]

No difference. I run my boats in saltwater 99% of the time. One thing I have rigged up is a flush attachment so I can pump fresh water through all the cooling lines in the boat right after. I build all my boats to accept the same flush rig. Usually I run from my dock so I just run it off the hose on the dock. I also take the RC boats out on the real boat to run in open water and I have a fresh water washdown system on the boat and another attachment so I can flush the RC boats from the freshwater washdown on the real boat.

Rinse everything right after running. Don't let it sit and allow the boat to dry because then the salt is harder to get off and out of the cooling systems. And of course at the end of the day lubricate everything and pull the drive shafts to clean and grease them.

[Rumpelhardt]

No difference. I run my boats in saltwater 99% of the time. One thing I have rigged up is a flush attachment so I can pump fresh water through all the cooling lines in the boat right after. I build all my boats to accept the same flush rig. Usually I run from my dock so I just run it off the hose on the dock. I also take the RC boats out on the real boat to run in open water and I have a fresh water washdown system on the boat and another attachment so I can flush the RC boats from the freshwater washdown on the real boat.

Rinse everything right after running. Don't let it sit and allow the boat to dry because then the salt is harder to get off and out of the cooling systems. And of course at the end of the day lubricate everything and pull the drive shafts to clean and grease them.

Thanks. That flush attachment you made looks like a neat rig.

[ScarabChris]

Thanks. That flush attachment you made looks like a neat rig.

Thanks..yes it works great and very simple and cheap to make.

On my big 54" Fountain and my scale Scarab Sport. On the Fountain you can see the 4 black caps right between the motors and on the Scarab Sport the hose nipple on the transom is the discharge for the ESC's, one on each side. I connect the flush hoses to those to flush the ESC's and simply stick the hose on the water pick up behind the prop on the outboards to flush the motors.

[Pennstater]

I too run almost exclusively in salt water. Driving to a lake where I won't get run off by residents is about an hour away through crappy traffic. I can drive two minutes to a nice large body of salt water. The only downside is that it is salt water. I spent my teenage years helping my dad clean our 18' Hydrosport after a day on the water. Cleaning these FE's is just like cleaning a full size boat; soap and water, flush, re-grease. I spend more time cleaning up than running.

The other downside is that the water almost always has a chop on it, unless I get out there at the crack of dawn (rare). I've got a 40" deep vee (mild deadrise) and a 48" deep vee (Warehouse Hobbies Enforcer). I've only run them a half dozen times each since getting back into boating (again, cleanup being the biggest detractor) and I've never run them over 3/4 throttle - they start hitting the chop and then start getting airborne. I also try to run when the tide is coming in and/or wind is blowing onshore and I keep an inflatable one man boat and pump with me. So it's a lot to consider to run a boat or two for 15 to 30 minutes (total).

I too made a small hose bib attachment with some silicone fuel tubing to flush the cooling circuits. On the 40", the water pickup is in the rudder, so I instead take a small piece of copper tubing and insert it into the cooling circuit's output (so the water exits through the rudder). On the 48", I attach the silicone tubing to each water pickup on the transom and it exits through the outputs on the side of the hull.

I always pull the flex shaft out and re-grease with Grim Racer grease (I think that's the name of it - I got it here on OSE). I also spray everything down with CorrosionX - screws, all hardware on the transom, clevises, collets, motors, bullet connectors, servos, switches, and receivers.

For me, the larger boats seem better on salt water to handle the chop (I won't run the 40" in anything over a very light chop). The Enforcer does much better but I have only run this a couple of times (it took me a year to get the thing built; you know, saving my allowance to buy stuff incrementally). The downside to the bigger boats is the cost (IMHO) - bigger motors, bigger batteries, more batteries (8s2p), etc.

It's still a lot of fun though. Good luck.

[SD Eracer]

I live in San Diego, so 99% of our RC boating is in salt water. We have years of experience running exclusive in salt water and I can tell you without a doubt, the number one thing you need to have is Corrosion X.

As Pennstater mentioned, use Corrosion X. Use it on everything, including soaking the receiver and pickling (soaking) your brushless motor, especially after it gets flooded with saltwater.

If you use Corrosion X, even if your boat gets flooded with ocean water, the only thing you're likely to loose are your batteries. I've had a non-waterproof receivers that were pre-sprayed with Corrosion X, then flooded in saltwater for over 30 minutes before I could retrieve the boat. I rinsed it with freshwater, resprayed with Corrosion X, and it was working just fine.

Also, when you eventually flood your motor with saltwater, pull it out of the boat when you get home, rinse it under the sink really well, then spray the inside with Corrosion X, it will also help to force the water out of the motor. Wipe it down, then re-lube the bearings and you are good to go. My old Leopard 4092 1730kv has been flooded in saltwater more times than I care to mention, but it's still on its original bearings and pushes my Genesis cat to 70 mph on 6S consistently for years.

One other thing you should bring with you is a $10 portable water sprayer, you can pick up a 1-gallon at home depot. Use it to spray fresh water through your cooling system after every run. It quickly cools down your motor and ESC while at the same time flushes the saltwater out of your water jackets and lines. At the very least, do it when you go home to make sure you get all the salt water out of your cooling system so it doesn't leave deposits that could slow down water flow.