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Nah i havent tried them. i think my hobby shop stocks them but i'm not sure if they carry 3/16. i'll check and have a look at them. thx!
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32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was -
At this point someone is going to have to take up the torch........hey, I made a pun...LOL There are options of course but none of them measure up to Ed's. Hope I'm not hurting anyone's feelings.
There were a lot of his family racing for a while. You would think one of them would have wanted to learn from the master and use the skill for evil........er........I mean profit.
I also tried to talk one of our club guys into doing it as his dad has mad machinist skills and could build a ridiculously accurate jig just for this purpose.
"He was using an electric furnace at that time to get even heating." Jim, you didn't happen to see said oven did you? I should have taken a minute and raided his trailer at the 05 nats. He was old even then. I could take em.Noisy personComment
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32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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41" & 29" FE Aeromarine Sprint Cats, Quickdraw powered "Dollar Eater" 41" Insane Cat, 29" BL mod Graupner Cat, 24" Hydro, 29" OB Cat, BL mod NQD Tear Into Jet boat, 55" Scarab, JET SWEEP R/C pool skimmer Rescue Boat.Comment
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Terry, no I did not, he said he built it. If you looked at his boats in 05 you could imagine what his electric oven looked like. Star Wars!Comment
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Yeah, Ed is truly a gifted builder. His fleet inspired a bunch of us to tackle building things we never would have tried before.
I've been doing a little research. Pretty sure Ed is induction soldering. I haven't figured out how to build one yet.Noisy personComment
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Tunnels-PS295. Cats-H&M M1 Supercat Daytona rivercat. Monos-DF Cyberstorm HiTech 29. Hydros- Ms K Vac-U-Pickle Custom built 37" shovel 10th scale converted to FE Shadow. Rigger-H&M Evo II. AQ Harbortug recovery boat. Build in progress 37" cf DragboatComment
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Some good hard silver solder or silver braising rod would work fine. The difference between with the silver braising rod is that the flux is already on it. (there are some lower temperature braising rods out there.The hard silver wire is nice as you can clean with flux before starting the weld. I have used a ton of the hard silver wire building induction furnaces for heat treating leaf springs and induction furnaces for melting metals, silver and gold. It's tough stuff.
Joining stainless steels requires perfect cleanliness and a lot of heat, oxygen/acetylene or possibly oxygen/propane. Both parts are orange to red hot when solder is applied. It will take some practise to get it dialed in. I believe the braising may be more forgiving overall with temperature and cleaning required. I know once you have a bad join started it can be very difficult to recover without starting over. I used to have to join copper and brass to stainless, that was very difficult. Figuring out the optimum temperature for doing the weld is the big part of getting a consistent job.
If you haven't looked at the kintec flex shafts you should, they run true and all well made. I will personally go with tig welding first if I need to make a few cables up., less heat put in either part while welding. The hard silver rod isn't very forgiving and unless you plan on setting up shop to do them it may frustrate more than anything else. I'm not to familiar with high silver braising rod but I would imagine there are some easier blends out there that will be just as strong.
I'd anybody is worried about heat treatment of the shafts bring lost, they just aren't very hard to begin with. I haven't seen any made other than 300 series stainless for the stub shafts. Most properly heat treatable stainless start in the 400 series, similar to what you see better quality knives made of. Not to say they can't be done but they won't be much tougher than the knife, fork and spoon we use around the dinner table. A lot of this is drawing from a mushy memory from many years ago so I hope I got it right. I didn't realize we had reached crisis levels for rc boat cables!
The jig I see being a simple enough affair. Using an aluminum tube with windows cut out for braising may cause issues drawing the heat away, it's tough enough to get your parts up to Temperature, the window is small for doing the job correctly. You would want to have a pile of practise pieces ready to try out first. The stub shafts could get cherry red pretty quick which could cause Warping. There's an art to doing it. That's about all I recall, hope the info is accurate!Comment
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I found this and learned a few things from it. I might make up a little crucible like this...
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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You can also use an empty rifle cartridge (brass) to solder the first few Inches of your flex. Get a shell like 7.62x39 or 7.62x54r and clean it out & flush with brake cleaner so there's no residue. heat the shell up with a butane torch and fill it with solder until it's about 1/2 way full, then start dipping your flex shafts in the molten solder.
As you dip the solder will penetrate the shaft but the level of the solder will also rise so be careful not to overflow it or you'll have a mess to clean up. the shell retains a lot of heat so once you get it good & molten, It stays that way for a while, just like it does if you used the same torch to solder bullet connectors too ��Comment
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The crucibles work work very well. The pipe cap thing will work pretty well but a graphite crucible for around 10 bucks on eBay keeps the solder nice and clean and heats up within seconds. It's great for tinning wire as well and your not getting any cross contamination from the steel cap. I've had my graphite crucible 10 plus years and it's still like new. Good for melting silver and gold to!Comment
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One question we get asked occasionally is the technique for soldering a flex ferrule to a flex cable. Let's go through the items you will need. A-The proper solder, namely a low temperature silver solder (as used in sweat soldering copper plumbing pipes). B-The proper flux which is borax based, definitely NOT an acid flux ( which can wick into the cable and cause rust or corrosion. C-Matching flex cable and flex ferrule. D-A propane torch (A soldering iron does not develop enough heat for silver solder). E-A wire brush to remove oxide down to bare metal (this applies to .250 diameter cable) F-A vice to hold the cable and ferrule while soldering. ***Let's go though the procedure step by step. First - clean the cable end you will be soldering, brushing with the wire brush the length of the wire, not across the cable. After you have cleaned the end of the cable, clamp it in your mounted vice with approximately 1/2" sticking above the jaws, and the remainder dangling free with no bends in it. Second - Apply flux around the end of the cable sticking up and slip on the ferrule (tapered end down, set screw end up). Third - Cut a small length of solder 1/8"=5/32" long and drop into the ferrule, Fourth - Apply heat with the propane torch, playing the heat evenly around the ferrule. The flux will melt and clean the surfaces and then the solder will flow down around the cable and inside the ferrule. Allow time for the parts to cool before touching them. Always exercise caution when soldering. The principle is the same when you are attaching the oc4ps prop shaft to the .098 cable, the OC613PS or OC64PKGPS to the .130 cable, or the OC6150PS to the .150 cableComment
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I have tried using the method above and I believe I ended up with a cable that will suffice for my needs. I'm not turning high rpm or power greater then 4s.
I removed the outside winding on a .187 flex and then used a stub bored for .130 flex. Placed stub I vice heated until solder melted, insert flex, add solder as needed, remove from vice and roll on piece of granite or glass while applying heat to true it up, chuck it up in a drill and hold a lil piece of sandpaper over the solder till its nice and smooth. I was able to do the same thing with .150 flex.
I have yet to test them in a boat but I wasn't able to break the joint with my drill and its got quite a reduction.
Still a little concerned with lost prop syndrome.Comment
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