good one, any quality epoxy should do if everything is scuffed up and very clean. Its to much money to use west epoxy resin, even in the 4 Oz bottles its still very expensive. Check Jb weld and see if its good for plastic. If it is prep clean well, drill small holes around motor mount base, say a 1/16" drill bit or close about 1/8" above bottom close together and all around base. Tqpe area off and lay the Jb weld to it making sure the fillet is tall enough to seep through holes. once area is sanded and cleaned with alcohol put motor in place and line up. Use CA glue to tack motor plates in. remove motor. Tqpe area for nice finish and lay Jb weld to mqke fillet. Might be best to angle boat for better fillet, do 2 available Sides. Wait 20 minutes remove tqpe and flip boat. Repeat for other two fillets. Remove tqpe qfter 20 minutes. Good job done, leave overnight and good to go. Times will vary with product used so tqke your time. Good luck.
Now what about filling large holes? Like where I cut out the old prop shaft? I was thing a few small peices of fiber glass? Just enough to get a backing so I could fill the hole with resin then sand it and level it with the rest of the hull.
Fiberglass is a good option, using resin to fill the holes will not work. It will crack and fallout with somerhing to bind to. Most auto stores carry a kit with resin, fiberglass and measuring cup. I think it runs about $30. More then enough for anything you decide to do. Ir you had of mentioned it an he beginning you could have done under the motor mount. A layer of glass from transom to just beyond the hatch opening would have been better. Ir you are fiberglassing it would be a great idea to make a plywood "doubler" to the transom and fiberglass it wrapping the glass around the sides bottom and top of boat to tie it all together. Make sure you seal the wood. The rewin in the would work best. Some guys use epoxy to seal the wood and install save time. Works good tio. If the boat has plywood, which iis very likely iit is still a good idea to seal and glass it. I wish I had the foresight to have mentioed iit at the beginning. But how much money do you put
messqge posted itself! I have to a lot of trouble with my phone. So it was how muxh money into a plastic boat before you buy a fiberglass one. Gotta run for now&
Jeff
ALERT : DO NOT use JB or Epoxy on ABS. ABS flexes, doesn't hold epoxies well, and any non-flexible adhesive can crack & let go. Use 3M 5200. It's strong but flexible enough to stay put .
"3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant is extremely strong, retains its strength above or below water line. Stays flexible too - allows for structural movement. Has excellent resistance to weathering and salt water.
Use 5200 on wood, fiberglass, hardware, motors, on fiberglass transoms, seams, joints, between struts, and planking stern joints. It is extremely permanent. "
Full cure takes a long time to fully cure, "Quick Set" takes 24 hours.
I'm building this boat with spare parts and stuff laying around so not much money is goin into it, it prolly won't get much use as I have a Titan 29 I'm building aswell! Thanks for the advise!
+1 on the 3M 5200 I saw a test on a full size boat where they bonded the Gill Bracket with 5200 and bolted it till cured. Then they removed the bolts and ran the boat! This was a 22ft. tunnel hull boat with a 2.5l Merc. on it.
I need some 5200! Just when you think you have all the adhesives you need you find out your just getting started! I haven't had issue using epoxy before though. Most of it has been on thicker parts, likely injection molded. My motor mount and servo/battery tray and stuffing tube support is still holding in my mini mono is still good come to think of it. It's running a ridiculously high kv motor on 3s to. Time will tell I suppose wth it I suppose. The epoxy says it works with plastics well. The minimono would defiantly fit the bill as something not to use it on. The hull is so thin and cheap feeling I would have returned it if the store had it been closer to home. (been a good boat since fixing though)
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