Just spent the morning at the pond. Aeromarine Sprintcat/1527 1.5D/300 amp Fightercat HV speedo. Shrink wrap on the stuffing tube to keep water out. Boat comes back with an inch of water inside, all cooling lines intact and attached. No flips. Upon blowing out the speedo with 20 psi air, the larger cooling plate is separating and leaking grey thermal grease, which I'm thinking is where the water came from. Question is- do I just pull on the plate to remove it or will I damage something? Is there something I should know before I continue? Don't want to damage anything. Thanx.
Fightercat 300 amp HV esc cooling plate leaking
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Service Bulletin- All 8s/300 & 16s/300-400 ESC Water Cooling
https://fightercatracing.com/index.p...cles&Itemid=58"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore -
you can re-seal the cooling plate.
1. slice off the shrink wrap from the ESC.
2. remove the cooling plate and place the esc in a new baggie to keep it clean and out of the way.
3. clean ALL the thermal paste off the block. make sure it is good and dry and CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.
4. get some MEDIUM super glue and run a small bead around the blocks seam. carefully wipe off and excess glue.
5. set it asside to completely cure up. (wait till the next day.)
6. pressure test the block.
7. apply a good amount of new thermal paste to the cooling block. (available at any good computer, electronics shop. or use the radio shack stuff. it
also works fine.)
8. place the block back onto the esc.
9. carefully slide on a new piece of shrink wrap over the esc making sure you have a 1" over hang off each end of the esc.
10. use a monokote heat gun (or your wifes/daughters hair dryer BUT DON'T GET CAUGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) and shrink the new wrap in place.
11. trim off any excess wrap and that is it.
I have done this on a couple of mine and works nice.Comment
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I took the cooling block completely apart. The cover plate was glued on with a bead of silicone ONLY around the perimeter with none on the webbing which directs the water internally. Bet that's why they fail. Under high pressure (fast boat) the plate is thin enough to balloon and work itself loose. Cleaned it up and used a thin bead of JB Weld on all contact surfaces. Shouldn't be a problem anymore.Fast Electrics Have A Small Carbon Wake
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Decided to check the other cooling block. At 60 psi it popped the plate so I suspect it would have been alright. This one was glued with sealer on ALL the contact points, unlike the larger one. Going to glue this one with JB Weld also, as well as doing my other FC speedos. I would recommend it for high speed applications.Fast Electrics Have A Small Carbon Wake
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Decided to check the other cooling block. At 60 psi it popped the plate so I suspect it would have been alright. This one was glued with sealer on ALL the contact points, unlike the larger one. Going to glue this one with JB Weld also, as well as doing my other FC speedos. I would recommend it for high speed applications."There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike FioreComment
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IMG_20120910_131204.jpgIMG_20120910_131217.jpg
I made this one the other day 4 pass cooler on a 200 fightercat... for a up and coming project.Comment
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Nice work, Towmissel. If you were willing, how much would 2 units, large and small, be?Fast Electrics Have A Small Carbon Wake
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