Put my boat back together, but now vibratinnng!!!

[iamandrew]

The prop did spin freely. Ive noticed in previous setups if i screw the prop on too hard it ends up pushing the drive dog into the strut. So i had checked that after I put it together and the only like tighness i could feel when i turned the prop was the magnets in the motor.
I could actually see the vibration coming from the rudder/strut on the boat thats all.
I couldnt see anything around the motor that indicated anything being out of balance.
I cant really get the collet around the wrong way of how its set up

[iamandrew]

Ill try and take some Pics of it or even a video and post them

[sundog]

If you can see a vibration in the rudder/strut then it is worth diagnosing; particularly when it wasn't doing that on earlier runs. But the cause could be somewhere else. Since it only takes a minute, try the suggestion of loosening the collet at the motor (so the motor magnets don't influence the test) and check for binding. Some collets have 2 opposing screws and you might have the wrong screw on the flat of the motor shaft. I have used the 2 screw feature to eliminate vibration in a slightly wobbly collet in the past. Vibration problems can sometimes be difficult to track down, so it's best to start at one end and work your way to the other end of the drivetrain. The vibration may not be a symptom of the overheating/short runtime, but worthy of attention IMO.

[iamandrew]

allright ill check it out.
My collet does have 2 M4 ( i think) grub screws in it, but im just using the one which is closest to the motor.
Ill track down another grub and use both and see what happens.

[iamandrew]

actually, ive just had a thought.
I think its the 4mm end peice of the drive shaft.
I had it in a vice because i had to saw off the old 4mm drive dog. I must have bent it a tiny amount.
Any ideas on where i can get a new one? where they are in stock?

[sundog]

I couldn't locate anything specifically for the Geico, but found this http://fightercatracing.com/index.ph...chk=1&Itemid=2 and there is one for $8 about half way down the page on this site http://kintecracing.com/Flex_Cables.html. Yep, a bent prop shaft would cause binding and vibration that you could see, feel and hear. You may have located the problem.

[iamandrew]

If anyone wants this boat im seriosuly about to throw it out
How hard is it for a 3/16th strut?
is this some extreemly rare part which can only be hand made?
im over the lack of support with ANY online shop, and theres no shops here to go to either

this is a joke, im starting to get over electric boats pretty quick.
All i wanted to do was reaplce the strut with a spare 3/16 setup

[Rumdog]

F you even look at OSE?

[siberianhusky]

Is the brass stuffing tube metric? Most of the Chinese stuff is, you may be trying to force a metric tube into an imperial hole in the strut, why not put the strut in a drill press and drill it out to the same size as the brass tube?
I think this is what you were having problems with, doesn't have to be a polished hole or anything, the shaft will be riding in the brass anyway.
Other more drastic option is to replace the stuffing tube with an imperial one, that way any future upgrades would be pretty much bolt on.
Being in N.A. I've steered away from anything metric to do with boats, too hard to find parts over here. The only exception is motor shafts are almost all in mm now.

[iamandrew]

Yeah thats the problem i am having, the more i read into what i should get the more i get confused.

Ive had a look at OSE but the dimensions arnt listed of the speedmaster struts, the fact that most the stuff is based on imperial and the boat is metric dosent really help.

the stuffing tube that is in the boat is 6MM when i measure it with a caliper.
the drive is definatly 4mm and is 2 peice.
I dont have a problem in removing the stuffing tube and drive , but the spare strut that i have wont accept the brass tube as its the same diameter

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130299299334&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

if you have a look on that listing you can see that the stuffing tube isnt in the strut. and i bought it thinking oh it must be able to push in, its just for the display, only to find out that its not.
because of how thin the strut is, it dosent look like youd be able to drill a slightly larger hole for the tube to slide into.

a lot of sites list Hydro and Mono type struts, not sure what the diff is either.

Like i dont mind if i have to buy some new stuff, as i can always use the old equipment, but theres not much room to change strut width on the genesis due to the inline rudder

[siberianhusky]

How about going down in size on the stuffing tube and not running the teflon liner, many people don't including myself. There is actually less drag on the driveline when running in brass as opposed to teflon, then you can slide the tube into the strut like you want to.
I've been running flex drives since they came out in the early 80's, the only boats I've ever had teflon liners in are the two Aquacraft rtr electrics I bought.
It's kind of funny some of the things we used to run with absolutely no problems people think will not work now!
When I started into boats people were solid mounting nitro motors, running solid 1/4 drill rod shafts with 2 universal joints on sub surface setups! All this worked fine with the antique AM radios we had.