Huge pop + Schulze ESC question

[domp444]

Alright so I soldered my lipos and went to hook everything up on the Drambuie on Ice. As scared as I was, I hooked everything up and it was all going well. When I went to connect the final battery to esc connector, there was a huge pop, and it kinda scared me. So I did it again, and I fully plugged the battery in.

The pop/spark was really loud and it's gonna be scary having that happen every time I run the boat. Also, it seems to ruin the bullet connectors. I've seen people put arcs in between and I'm wondering what I should do.

Also, I wanted to test out the motors but I think I have to reverse the throttle on my 6ex since the motor went full throttle.

What is the process when hooking up a Schulze ESC? I noticed at first there were some tones, and then I didn't get any throttle response. So I put the throttle up to full power and there were some beeps and when I brought it back down it started going. I guess it has to be reversed and then it will just be automatic, right?

Anyway, I'm really excited to get the boat up and running!

[carlcisneros]

you need to PROGRAM the ESC first before you go any further.
I am sure that some one here on the forum has instructions for doing just that.
If they don't then google the Schultze site and look in the downloads section for programing instructions.

That popping you have is a normal thing when connecting the batteries to the ESC. That is the capacitors charging up.

[egneg]

You can use a resistor to slow down the charging rate of the caps - it's called a spark eliminator and has been covered here - do a search. I thought I read where Schulze supplied one with the ESC?

[m4a1usr]

I use a 3 watt 5 ohm resistor on my 40.160 when its in 8S and higher setups. On 10S you can get a pretty large pop when putting the bullets on. The 5 ohm resistor is just my choice. I have seen others using 10 to 50 ohm resistors. The larger the resistor the smaller the initial in rush of current and the lower the spark and the smaller in wattage resistor needed. Get some 18 ga silicone wire, a male/female 2mm bullet and the size resistor you desire. Thats the perfect anti spark setup. Heck I should sell them it so easy. Even a caveman can do it!

John

[domp444]

you need to PROGRAM the ESC first before you go any further.
I am sure that some one here on the forum has instructions for doing just that.
If they don't then google the Schultze site and look in the downloads section for programing instructions.

That popping you have is a normal thing when connecting the batteries to the ESC. That is the capacitors charging up.

Thanks for the tip. I found the Schulze site and downloaded the manual. It's got a lot of pretty important info I would've otherwise missed. Programming is in there as well.

You can use a resistor to slow down the charging rate of the caps - it's called a spark eliminator and has been covered here - do a search. I thought I read where Schulze supplied one with the ESC?

I know I've seen it here, but I can't seem to find it. Can you please link me to the thread(s)? Would be super helpful

I use a 3 watt 5 ohm resistor on my 40.160 when its in 8S and higher setups. On 10S you can get a pretty large pop when putting the bullets on. The 5 ohm resistor is just my choice. I have seen others using 10 to 50 ohm resistors. The larger the resistor the smaller the initial in rush of current and the lower the spark and the smaller in wattage resistor needed. Get some 18 ga silicone wire, a male/female 2mm bullet and the size resistor you desire. Thats the perfect anti spark setup. Heck I should sell them it so easy. Even a caveman can do it!

John

Can you link me to what you have on your boat? Maybe post a picture of the setup so I can get a visual, if possible. Thanks for the info!

[m4a1usr]

This picture is a pretty accurate depiction of what most folks use. The connectors/ bullets are different but the operation is the same. A smaller set of wires you plug in to make the connection, then mate your larger bullets of that polarity. I borrowed this picture from a known site.

John

[domp444]

That looks like something I can add to my setup. Now all I need is a link to where I can buy the resistors. Thanks for the pic!

[monojeff]

Fightercat sells some

[drwayne]

This picture is a pretty accurate depiction of what most folks use. The connectors/ bullets are different but the operation is the same. A smaller set of wires you plug in to make the connection, then mate your larger bullets of that polarity. I borrowed this picture from a known site.

John

hahaha Im sure m4a1usr will agree when he looks closer..

how in heck does that resistor charge the caps when the red is not connected toesc until the deans are hooked together. ?

This setup just wont work

There's a page inside OSE shop that is far more educational than this turd.

sorry folks, nothing worse than bad advice.

DocW

[m4a1usr]

You got good eyes wayne! I just used that picture for the details of the charging circuit construction. It was the only one I knew about to give the OP an idea of what I was talking about. My own design of a cap charging system is custom to my own application and I think it would have created more questions than offered assistance. But to answer your question of how the system in the picture works is easy. The guy just plugs in the red side of the deans, leaves the black wire side of the deans hanging out. Then just makes the charging cap connection and pulls apart the deans and puts them together in the normal fashion. There is no reason to make a cap charging circuit if you cant pre use it before the main connections.
John

[drwayne]

#1. connect black.
#2 connect resistor loop. wait 5 secs
#3 connect mains red

Why make things complicated ?

W

or here http://mgm-compro.com/pdf/en-antispark-d230808.pdf

capscharge.JPG

ps. I hate blackberry graphics .......

[domp444]

Can I use this?: http://www.xtremepowersystems.net/pr...XPS-ANTISPARK1

I can just solder my connectors on there and use it whenever I need to charge up the caps. I won't need to permanently solder anything to the ESC/batteries.

[m4a1usr]

That could work for you as a removable anti spark circuit. You could just solder on each end the size bullets you use but there is still going to be a spark to your bullets. Thats why we use the secondary circuit. It takes the spark and leaves you main bullets clean, free from any carbon. However, the choice is yours.

John

[JIM MARCUM]

Thanks Dr. Wayne. The PDF file clearly describes how to setup our anti-spark problems. As a newbie at HV LiPo setups I couldn't understand how to prevent major arching when pluging in my 29.6V batteries (14.8V 4S2P in series). I knew nothing about the ESC capacitors were causing the arch&spark. My HV speed controllers came with a second smaller negative wire & I had no clue what it was for. That is probably why I smoked it. Duh!

THX-JIM

[JIM MARCUM]

NOTE: The picture using Deans plugs would need a second small positive wire & bullet connector to complete the circuit BEFORE plugging the Deans plugs together. DRWAYNE's (see below) PDF - http://mgm-compro.com/pdf/en-antispark-d230808.pdf - says it all.

THX, JIM