Best Spray Paint for Fiberglass

[FighterCat57]

I use Dupli-Color Perfect Match Automotive paints. VERY light coats for the first 4-5. More like fogging the hull until the color becomes solid. If you lay it on too thick, it won't stick and will "fisheye". The light fogging allows the paint to completely bond to the hull. About 10-20 minutes between coats, again VERY light until the hull becomes a solid color. Sometimes I've hit 10 fogging coats and usually use an entire can of paint.

Then I use about 4-6 coats of Clear Acrylic. Either Lacquer or Enamel, but don't mix. The final coat is thick, almost running. Then it bakes.

I use halogen heat lamps with an IR sensor to "bake" the hulls at about 120-140 for 8-12 hours. Have to watch the vinyl to make sure it doesn't curl.

Before painting, I scuff the hull with 150 grit sand paper to give it some good deep scratches so the paint can bond. The spray paint is thick enough to fill them, don't worry.

Optionally, I sand in between clear coats with 1500 grit wet paper.

This formula has held up quite well, starting with last year's Das Boot project which still doesn't have a single chip in it. (Except where the rudder broke) I paint all of my hulls this way now. Have to make sure to break the "glaze" on every bit of area being painted. If you miss a spot and it's shiny, the paint may chip loose.

Hope this helps!

[FighterCat57]

PS, sometimes I use the Clear Effex to add some sparkle.... and for that unmistakable bass boat effect; I use "spray glitter" inbetween clear coats.

Practice on something unimportant as it takes a bit of practice to lay it right.

With all the metallic clears or sparkles, like Propper Chopper says, a light fogging is all that's needed. Any more and it will "dull out" the color.

Photo #2 is an example of too much metal flake in the clear. It WAS black before the clear coat.

[keithbradley]

I use Dupli-Color Perfect Match Automotive paints. VERY light coats for the first 4-5. More like fogging the hull until the color becomes solid. If you lay it on too thick, it won't stick and will "fisheye". The light fogging allows the paint to completely bond to the hull. About 10-20 minutes between coats, again VERY light until the hull becomes a solid color. Sometimes I've hit 10 fogging coats and usually use an entire can of paint.

Then I use about 4-6 coats of Clear Acrylic. Either Lacquer or Enamel, but don't mix. The final coat is thick, almost running. Then it bakes.

I use halogen heat lamps with an IR sensor to "bake" the hulls at about 120-140 for 8-12 hours. Have to watch the vinyl to make sure it doesn't curl.

Before painting, I scuff the hull with 150 grit sand paper to give it some good deep scratches so the paint can bond. The spray paint is thick enough to fill them, don't worry.

Optionally, I sand in between clear coats with 1500 grit wet paper.

This formula has held up quite well, starting with last year's Das Boot project which still doesn't have a single chip in it. (Except where the rudder broke) I paint all of my hulls this way now. Have to make sure to break the "glaze" on every bit of area being painted. If you miss a spot and it's shiny, the paint may chip loose.

Hope this helps!

Things like 150 grit sandpaper and 140 degree baking is pretty unorthadox...but if it works, it works.

I can say Ben's method holds up well though. After he painted my 32" cat (It has held up great), I was happy enough to ask him to "please" paint my 37" cat which also turned out great.

[FighterCat57]

Things like 150 grit sandpaper and 140 degree baking is pretty unorthadox...

I can say Ben's method holds up well though. After he painted my 32" cat (It has held up great), I was happy enough to ask him to "please" paint my 37" cat which also turned out great.

Yeah, that Bahama blue is one of my favorites! Glad the paint is holding up well. I always worry I may have missed a spot sanding. I've had too many of those factory paint jobs come off with the tape.

[tiqueman]

im scared of clear coats out of cans, if its white paint job....go for it, my past has been milky film, ruined a perfect paint job, i did a mini bike once and many people thought i used automotive paint, it was that nice, blood red

Choosing the right primer for fiberglass hulls is very important. 2 part 2K epoxy primers like this work the best for almost all paint. LINK

I've used enamel, lacquer, and krylon on this type of primer with good success.

I now use this same primer and have an autobody shop shoot the color and clear for me. It has worked great for that application too.

Ive used Krylon, Duplicor, Omni and PPG. I had way too many issues w/ Krylon and will probably never use it again. Duplicolr is ok, but thier Clearcoat is not that impressive. PPG although not in a spray, can be put in a spray can by the paint shop. Its SUPER easy to work with, lays down incredibly well and is tough as all get out. I was using thier Clear coat as well but saw on here someone, I think Ben, using U-pol clear. Stuff is amazingly awesome. It flows out like mirrored glass. Actually like it more than the PPG clear AND I dont have to clean my spray gun after I use it.

For primer, especially over gelcoat, epoxy paint all the way. Luckyduc nailed this and I could not agree more. I was turned onto that step by the local automotive paint shop and since I started I rarely have an issue w/ paint peal. Boats I did not do this step on, every one has peeled.
An easy spray can application of epoxy paint, use Ace hardwares Appliance epoxy. I did extensive testing w/ that on my first few BJ hatches and the stuff is bullet proof. Scuff the hull over and over again. Prep as mentioned before is most imprtant. If you slack on the foundation, it will never stick properly. Also, the epoxy paint sands very easily and can be used as a "final prime" to get imperfections out.

Oh, and Bill34207 has started using Rustoleums enamel paint and been very successful. Glosses out very nicely w/ out clear and tape hasnt pulled it. Hopefully he chimes in here.

[rc2266]

PS, sometimes I use the Clear Effex to add some sparkle.... and for that unmistakable bass boat effect; I use "spray glitter" inbetween clear coats.

Practice on something unimportant as it takes a bit of practice to lay it right.

With all the metallic clears or sparkles, like Propper Chopper says, a light fogging is all that's needed. Any more and it will "dull out" the color.

Photo #2 is an example of too much metal flake in the clear. It WAS black before the clear coat.

Photo 2 is the effect I was talking about, same hull too, did mine lighter on red hull, will takes pics when I get home

[sailr]

Good stuff! I've wondered about the Metal Specs clear. Good to know it works OK!

[sailr]

Looks like a one shot deal though. Once you activate it, you have to use the whole can! Kinda pricey for that in my opinon.

Choosing the right primer for fiberglass hulls is very important. 2 part 2K epoxy primers like this work the best for almost all paint. LINK

I've used enamel, lacquer, and krylon on this type of primer with good success.

I now use this same primer and have an autobody shop shoot the color and clear for me. It has worked great for that application too.

[bill34207]

I've had pretty good luck with the rustoleum rattle can enamel. Used it on my 1/8 Miller American, Expressraft Thunderbolt, Sprintcat and Chris' PTH Stealth.
I'll add that the Metallic gold on my cat did get shot with gloss clearcoat from a can. A rustoleum can.

[tiqueman]

Looks like a one shot deal though. Once you activate it, you have to use the whole can! Kinda pricey for that in my opinon.

Appliance epoxy, $7.00 a can. I found it to work just as good as my 2 part epoxy.

[sailr]

Interesting. I quit using Rustoleum years ago because it seemed to never ever dry! Guess they've improved it! Good to know.

I have been using the Premium Enamel (I think it's called) from ACE hardware, both colors and clear, with good results. It is the SAME STUFF as the Duplicolor enamel but about $2-$3 a can cheaper than the auto parts store! Probably from the same factory!

QUOTE=bill34207;310867]I've had pretty good luck with the rustoleum rattle can enamel. Used it on my 1/8 Miller American, Expressraft Thunderbolt, Sprintcat and Chris' PTH Stealth.
I'll add that the Metallic gold on my cat did get shot with gloss clearcoat from a can. A rustoleum can.[/QUOTE]

[sailr]

Regardless of what you use, be SURE to shoot the next coat within an hour or wait 48 hours!~ Otherwise, it can wrinkle up the first coat and then you've got a mess! I always let the color coat cure for about a week before shooting the clear and let the clear cure for at least 2 to 3 weeks before putting tape on it!

[rc2266]

Finally off for pics, red basecoat

[mdunham]

Finally off for pics, red basecoat

looks good