how did I smoke my new feigao

[Flying Scotsman]

MM hull,, and I did not hook them up in series was running the boat for less then 10 min everything was ok then the wire came loose the soilder melted ?????

10 minutes! that is a long time on that setup.

Douggie

[dasboata]

i dont think the boat being wet had anything to do with it, although you need to adress that and seal up that T180 for the future.

BUT you need a new motor now, so check out the swap shop i have a 1512 1.5y 1800kv with jacket up for grabs, or i'd sell my 10xl as well...........

The feigao xl should be fine for the MM. Guys run L-sized 540 cans in these no prob. I hope you get it worked out. I'm swapping the castle motor out of mine, and was planning on putting a feigao xl in as a replacement. I have the t-600 outrunner as well, it would be a good choice IMO.

I thought they were 5.5 but the were Back ordered and I must have use 4mm by mistake I think that might of been the problem

[GP73]

/me thinks I need to start using 5.5mm on all motor connections...

[GP73]

A couple of things that I'd like someone to clarify for me for future reference:

I've checked the specs of the motor and the bullets, I couldn't find the Kv that Steve is listing on OSE for the 10XL (1668Kv), but the 10XL listed @ 1734Kv is rated at 66A max, the 4mm bullets are rated at 80A max (according to another link).

With that in mind, isn't it possible that the motor started melting and smoking BEFORE the connectors gave up? Is that 66A rating a suggested rating or is it the actual max the motor can sustain before burning?


Feigao 540xx motors datasheet: http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/85838/...1242961509.jpg

Bullet connectors ratings: http://www.icare-rc.com/connectors.htm

[Fluid]

I believe the problem was simply heat buildup, remember Chris said the motor was smoking with the connectors in place. The motor just got too hot. Ten minutes is too long for a semi-race setup like the 10XL on 5S with a calculated 32,000 rpm. Doubtless there was a lot of on-throttle/off-throttle running to build up more heat, so no wonder the motor overheated. Kudos to that ESC!

I know that fuel guys are used to running their boats for a long time with a race setup - five to ten minutes - and they get away with it because they can remove heat as fast as the gas engine produces it. But with current BL motors we have a limited ability to remove heat, and if we exceed the ability to remove heat as fast as the motor produces it, we will keep building heat in the electrical components until something burns. Sometimes solder melts, sometimes the ESC goes bang, sometimes the motor smokes, sometimes the packs burst. We are a lot better off in this respect today than just a few years ago and things will continue to improve, but for now we have to be more careful than our fuel brothers are.

Chris probably would have been okay running 4S with that motor, or running a 12XL on 5S, or maybe dropping to an m440 or x438 if he wanted extended run time. With race-quality components it is best to limit your run time; bring the boat in every minute and check the motor, ESC and pack temps until they are almost too high. Then you know the time limit you have for running that particular setup. Set the timer on your transmitter, and you are good to go without the risk of melting down.


.

[dasboata]

I believe the problem was simply heat buildup, remember Chris said the motor was smoking with the connectors in place. The motor just got too hot. Ten minutes is too long for a semi-race setup like the 10XL on 5S with a calculated 32,000 rpm. Doubtless there was a lot of on-throttle/off-throttle running to build up more heat, so no wonder the motor overheated. Kudos to that ESC!

I know that fuel guys are used to running their boats for a long time with a race setup - five to ten minutes - and they get away with it because they can remove heat as fast as the gas engine produces it. But with current BL motors we have a limited ability to remove heat, and if we exceed the ability to remove heat as fast as the motor produces it, we will keep building heat in the electrical components until something burns. Sometimes solder melts, sometimes the ESC goes bang, sometimes the motor smokes, sometimes the packs burst. We are a lot better off in this respect today than just a few years ago and things will continue to improve, but for now we have to be more careful than our fuel brothers are.

Chris probably would have been okay running 4S with that motor, or running a 12XL on 5S, or maybe dropping to an m440 or x438 if he wanted extended run time. With race-quality components it is best to limit your run time; bring the boat in every minute and check the motor, ESC and pack temps until they are almost too high. Then you know the time limit you have for running that particular setup. Set the timer on your transmitter, and you are good to go without the risk of melting down.


.

Yes my grandson was running the boat and there was alot of on and off the throttle I had tape the cowl on and I did not fell like taking the tape off to check the heat Hmm I am not liking this electric stuff

[dasboata]

so if I wanted to put a better motor in there that would fit that mount,,,, is that possible ? And what motor and model thanks chris

[Fluid]

Actually the Feigao motors are very decent for the price, going to a higher wind number will help with the heat. A direct replacement which may be a bit better quality is the Leopard 3674 line. I have been happy with mine and they are virtually identical in size to the Feigaos. The Kv you choose depends on the voltage and the use.

Chris, FE is just like nitro or gas, there is a learning curve. With nitro you have to struggle with the needle until you learn how to set it right - and some never do learn. With fuel you have to learn not to run in another boat's wash, that you can't stop on the course and them start again, etc. Once you learn the basics, the advantages and the limitations it's just as fun. If you want to run your MM for ten minutes, you have to have the right motor, prop and cells, easy as that. You won't expect to set a SAW record with a Homie would you?




.

[GP73]

With nitro you have to struggle with the needle until you learn how to set it right - and some never do learn.

Tell me about it...

[dasboata]

Actually the Feigao motors are very decent for the price, going to a higher wind number will help with the heat. A direct replacement which may be a bit better quality is the Leopard 3674 line. I have been happy with mine and they are virtually identical in size to the Feigaos. The Kv you choose depends on the voltage and the use.

Chris, FE is just like nitro or gas, there is a learning curve. With nitro you have to struggle with the needle until you learn how to set it right - and some never do learn. With fuel you have to learn not to run in another boat's wash, that you can't stop on the course and them start again, etc. Once you learn the basics, the advantages and the limitations it's just as fun. If you want to run your MM for ten minutes, you have to have the right motor, prop and cells, easy as that. You won't expect to set a SAW record with a Homie would yo


.

I hear ya !!!

[Bigbore]

I have a limited axperience with FE RC Boats so this is what I observed on my Titan so far.

I have smoked a Feigao 10XL in my Titan 29" with the following setup:
Motor: Feigao 540 10XL 1668Kv
ESC: Hobbywing Seaking 120A
Prop: Octura X640
Battery: Zippy 5000mAh 40C 5S2P tot pack: 5S 10000mAh
Boat weight: 3,2Kg
COG@ 34%
Run time: 3.00 min
Motor Temp:96°C = 204F
ESC Temp: 61°C = 142F

The bullets between motor and ESC was 5,5mm and some runs before the last one bullet solder melted.

Now I have a Leopard 4074 2000Kv and things are way better. The bullets between motor and ESC are the 4mm stock of the Leopard and nothing is melting over there.
Motor: Leopard 4074 2000Kv
ESC: Hobbywing Seaking 120A
Prop: Octura X640
Battery: Zippy 5000mAh 40C 5S2P tot pack: 5S 10000mAh
Boat weight: 3,75Kg (with GPS)
COG@ 32%
Run time: 3.00 min
Motor Temp:42°C=107F
ESC Temp: 58°C=136F

Now I'm waiting for a Hobbywing Seaking 180A cause my 120A get too hot.

[forescott]

2000kv x 18.5 volts = 37000rpm. Good thing your only running a 40mm prop. That is one hot setup! Good choice on the 180a esc. That 120a has to be stressed!

[Bigbore]

2000kv x 18.5 volts = 37000rpm. Good thing your only running a 40mm prop. That is one hot setup! Good choice on the 180a esc. That 120a has to be stressed!

Yeah I know that.
37000rpm are theoretical, what's the reality? Is it known?
I want to set up my Titan to reach 50mph and with X640 my top speed was 71,8Km/h = 44,6Mph but with the 120A ESC. I guess with the 180A the boat will be faster.

[Flying Scotsman]

I will step into the fray one last time.....5S power on those motors are SAW setups and the prop will decide your fate.

Douggie

[dasboata]

I have a limited axperience with FE RC Boats so this is what I observed on my Titan so far.

I have smoked a Feigao 10XL in my Titan 29" with the following setup:
Motor: Feigao 540 10XL 1668Kv
ESC: Hobbywing Seaking 120A
Prop: Octura X640
Battery: Zippy 5000mAh 40C 5S2P tot pack: 5S 10000mAh
Boat weight: 3,2Kg
COG@ 34%
Run time: 3.00 min
Motor Temp:96°C = 204F
ESC Temp: 61°C = 142F

The bullets between motor and ESC was 5,5mm and some runs before the last one bullet solder melted.

Now I have a Leopard 4074 2000Kv and things are way better. The bullets between motor and ESC are the 4mm stock of the Leopard and nothing is melting over there.
Motor: Leopard 4074 2000Kv
ESC: Hobbywing Seaking 120A
Prop: Octura X640
Battery: Zippy 5000mAh 40C 5S2P tot pack: 5S 10000mAh
Boat weight: 3,75Kg (with GPS)
COG@ 32%
Run time: 3.00 min
Motor Temp:42°C=107F
ESC Temp: 58°C=136F

Now I'm waiting for a Hobbywing Seaking 180A cause my 120A get too hot.

I wonder if there is a problem with the 10XL sounds like the same thing that happened to me only I had smaller connectors ?? I have asked Steve about this thanks chris