Damaged bearings in wire drive strut

[properchopper]

Tony,
try hitting the loctited area with some flame. I like to use a small butane torch. It's tough to get the right spot but when it does melt the bearings will come out easily.

Sorry Alan, my P.O. doesn't allow me to keep any small butane torches in the house

[Jeff Wohlt]

Sometimes it takes some serious heat with a small flame but a iron will probably do it.

The flanged bearings just do not sit deep enough, as Chopper stated. I also like to sand the stub just a bit so it slides in and out nicely. This allows just enough for some movement so you bearings do not take the full hit.

[Ronbo]

I too, was thinking 2 non flanged would be better, and sit deeper than my non flanged in my setup? I have it back together, and it sounds better when i blip the throttle. Havent tested it yet, still working on flying the boat and getting the left sponson down.

[properchopper]

A tad off topic, but I just put one of Mr. Wohlt's .062 wire drives in my FE 30, using the newer Octura coupler, and MAN is it smooth. Spinning up the motor, you see NO out-of-concentricity, not even the tiniest bit - the shaft doesn't have ANY visible runout

Now that the switch to wire drive has been accomplished and my demo-ing it as a Spec boat has worked out well for Jeff M., it's time for some all-out "P-Power"

[Ronbo]

Well, I ran it yesterday at my new found testing area. Motor still about 120-130F, but the bearings are fine, tho the flanged seems to slide in n out of the strut easier, not liking that. I did fix at least my left sponson lifting with turn fin adjustment... more to follow if bearings are bad.

[sailr]

Following this thread with interest. I've never used wire drives but am seriously considering it on my 1/10th scalers.

[Ronbo]

Well,
My strut/bearing issue isnt fixed. i first cracked a flanged bearing, replaced with a non flanged bearing. I ran heat 3 ok, no issues that i saw. After consolation, boat was still fast, but once done, i pulled the shaft out. both bearings were destroyed.

My strut seems to have too much bearing play closest to drive dog, and with the lip on the inside, i cant shove the bearings in further or add more bearings. So, i need a new strut and maybe try teflon bushings or multiple bearings. but i dont know what will fit my boat.

[Jeff]

IMO 2 bearings are not enough. We drill the hole deeper in the strut and use a spacer and then 2 more bearings up front for a total of 4 bearings minimum. Also you need to grind a small relief or use a thrust washer that does not touch thee inner bearing raceway. If you load this you will destroy the bearing. I use a flange bearing for my last bearing and ground the backside of the drivedog as to not hit the center(inner) bearing raceway.

Jeff

[Jeff Wohlt]

I use the smaller reamer for the bearings and they have to be pressed in. For a strut I do not see needing more than 2 bearings. For a stinger you might but I have installed bearing on those as well and they are fine. You may have a shaft out of round or the wire not being nice and centered in the stub.

[Ronbo]

Jeff,
I used 2 different wire drives, and i even put the strut angle to where its basically a straight shot to the motor thru the stuffing tube. I have it all apart, and I wasted a flanged bearing after 4 test laps after the race.

I believe there is too much play at the flanged bearing side, allowing them to spin or wobble.

Any suggestions on how to fix it? I have tried to pinch or swage the end to secure the bearing, but doesnt seem to work yet. When i put the bearings in, i use the shaft to help aling it in there. They go in pretty snug (the forward, non flanged) Im not sure what strut will fit my mount/hydro.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Man, the only thing you can do is Ca or Locitite it in. Or just take them out and install a brass bushing reduced to fit the shaft. Might be the only way you can save the strut.

[Ronbo]

ya, I was thinking the same thing. If everything is straight and no slop, would ceramic or ABEC3-7 type bearings from Boca be worth it?

[Jeff Wohlt]

Not if the strut housing is bad....do not waste your money. Switch it out and run a bushing...nothing that bad about that. I have new struts but you can also drill your own. I use a smaller reamer as I said and the bearing is press fitted. Works well and leaves more metal in the strut.

I found ABEC 5 and 7 but nobody would want to pay what they cost. Sure it is a much better bearing.

[T.C.]

I would be VERY careful pressing bearings in, it doesn't take much to put them in a bind.
I like a snug slip fit with red Lock tight and NO flange on the bearing.
Flush with WD-40 and spin after each session, then 3n1 oil to store.
T.C.

[Jeff Wohlt]

If the hole is square and good they seat fine....the reason to use a reamer with a square bottom and not a drill bit. Too tight of press and you then put pressure on the outter race and no good.