JBWeld to seal up an ESC?

[FighterCat57]

I'm messing with one of those Suppo 200a ESC's and having trouble getting it to cool evenly. I have a nice cooling block on the fets but the lower part keeps getting really hot. I'm considering encasing it in JB Weld and putting a cooling block on the bottom as well as the top. The block doesn't fit tight against the bottom of the ESC, about 3mm gap to fill with JB Weld.

Any thoughts on this?

[FighterCat57]

Photos:

This is what I'm thinking about doing... The main problem is the ESC block does not lay flat on the bottom and also the power/motor connections are there and need to be isolated from the cooling block.

So I'm thinking that JB Weld will do the trick and help dissipate heat evenly.

What a pain, won't be buying these again.

[v-spec]

I ran one of these with no water cooling with a NEU 1415 and it worked totally fine. I later added a single TFL water cooling block and didn't see much difference it ran about the same temp 110 or so if I remember right it was a long time ago. I just used thermal tape.

[FighterCat57]

I ran one of these with no water cooling with a NEU 1415 and it worked totally fine. I later added a single TFL water cooling block and didn't see much difference it ran about the same temp 110 or so if I remember right it was a long time ago. I just used thermal tape.

Yeah, it's fine if I reduce the prop size and keep the load down. But I'd like to work it a little harder... It's a 200amp ESC, I'd like to think I can get 100 amps out of it.

[6S HYDRO]

Add a huge cap to the esc, radio shack sells a 4700 or 5700uf 35v caps for about 5 bucks each, it greatly reduces the heat in the controller

[Flying Scotsman]

I'm messing with one of those Suppo 200a ESC's and having trouble getting it to cool evenly. I have a nice cooling block on the fets but the lower part keeps getting really hot. I'm considering encasing it in JB Weld and putting a cooling block on the bottom as well as the top. The block doesn't fit tight against the bottom of the ESC, about 3mm gap to fill with JB Weld.

Any thoughts on this?

I would caution on using that epoxy to seal it. The board and electronic compenents may be destroyed by a chemical reaction, and the heat is trapped in the epoxy covering

Douggie

[FighterCat57]

I would caution on using that epoxy to seal it. The board and electronic compenents may be destroyed by a chemical reaction, and the heat is trapped in the epoxy covering

Douggie

Yeah, that's kinda what's been stopping me, is thinking it may just trap heat inside instead of helping dissipate it.

[FighterCat57]

Add a huge cap to the esc, radio shack sells a 4700 or 5700uf 35v caps for about 5 bucks each, it greatly reduces the heat in the controller

I'm assuming that it just goes across the + - terminals. Interesting that adding a capacitor will reduce the heat...

[eboat]

I just had a heat sink on mine (never got around to putting the fan on it)
I had it in a Phil Thomas hull with a KB 1200KV motor and ran a X450/3 blade on 6S2P 4350 lipos
My first boat that got to the 50 mph mark in race water and was averaging 130 amps
It was getting warm but no worse than the motor or lipos

I had a space with nothing underneith for the air also

[Steven Vaccaro]

I'm messing with one of those Suppo 200a ESC's and having trouble getting it to cool evenly. I have a nice cooling block on the fets but the lower part keeps getting really hot. I'm considering encasing it in JB Weld and putting a cooling block on the bottom as well as the top. The block doesn't fit tight against the bottom of the ESC, about 3mm gap to fill with JB Weld.

Any thoughts on this?

What do those esc's cost?

[6S HYDRO]

I got the himodel version 200a 4-8s for 48.00 + shipping of 11.00 but they ended up sending it ems express and i got it within a week

[6S HYDRO]

I epoxied mine to waterproof w/ watercooler on top. No probs so far and never too hot, and im running it in about 106-110 deg ambient temps here in the desert

[RaceMechaniX]

Caution, JB weld is slightly conductive so it is not advised to seal electronics.

Sounds like you need thermal grease to conduct the heat away from the fets. The main problem I see with this controller is that you can only cool one level of fets. All the others an inaccessible. These tightly packaged controllers are really only good for short bursts like SAW's or plylon planes.

Use cautiously for sustained use.

TG

[NativePaul]

Depends which version, I have bought HiModels 200A for $45, Skywing 200Afor £20 (about $30), Mystery 200A for $30, ETTIs are much MUCH more but have different caps and come waterproofed and watercooled.

Personally I really like the suppo 200A 4-8s bec ESCs and love their price/performance ratio, they are all I run now for 4-8s I just wish they did a 2-4s version as well then I could sell my Hydra 240s and finish my 12s batboat.

[6S HYDRO]

i beleive the suppo and the himodel 200a 4-8s bec are the exact same