Burnt up 180A v3 hobbywing ESC?

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  • ray schrauwen
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 9471

    #31
    Originally posted by mihelone
    I use a 2s 800 mah lipo, its just a receiver and a servo to power...its ok for a rc boat.
    I use 800mah 2S up to 1200mah 2S but, high C rating so they can be charged fairly fast and handle the demands of almost any servo.

    Zippy 1000mah 20C are nice or similar. Don't go super cheap on ebay with no name lipos. Steve sells some I think?
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    • Mxkid261
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2015
      • 734

      #32
      Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol

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      • Mxkid261
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2015
        • 734

        #33
        Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
        and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
        http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Cooling.html

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        • domwilson
          Moderator
          • Apr 2007
          • 4408

          #34
          Have you contacted Steven on OSE yet? He is really helpful with these matters.
          Government Moto:
          "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

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          • Mxkid261
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2015
            • 734

            #35
            I have not contacted him, but I already ripped the caps off of the main unit so unfortunately I think Im SOL at this point lol.

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            • Jeff
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2007
              • 232

              #36
              Originally posted by Mxkid261
              Long story short my spartan ESC finally started giving me issues after a year, so a month ago I purchased a 180A v3 hobbywing from the OSE store. Then about 2 weeks ago I purchased a Rivercat hull from Travis and decided to use the ESC for that. Well I had to try it out Lol so Ive ran about 8 times with it in the spartan and possibly burnt it up today. Boat cut out after about 5 minutes, got it quick with my jetski and when I pulled the top off there was a very small amount of smoke. Capacitors look burnt or something. Motor timing was 3.75 degrees on stock castle motor. Am I out $120 or is there any warranty on these? Thanks

              Five minutes is an awful long time to run anything with a hotter set up. Have you ran this set up checking heat every minute so you know you can push this that far?
              I try and avoid paste eaters.

              Comment

              • Jamey
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2015
                • 199

                #37
                Originally posted by Mxkid261
                Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
                and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
                http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_Cooling.html
                Wow you are right, good catch! It is strange HW would let Turnigy sell their esc with improvements for less money then they do. I think it is pretty clear to me at this point the hw version needs some help in the capacitor department.

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                • Jamey
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2015
                  • 199

                  #38
                  Originally posted by Mxkid261
                  Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol
                  A slow blinking Red is the low voltage cut-off (but no beep) according to the manual. Did you test with charged packs? Also blinking Red with beep can mean it is in throttle calibration mode. There is still hope!

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                  • Mxkid261
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2015
                    • 734

                    #39
                    Yes I tested it with charged packs. I guess I try rebinding or something?? I ran it about 5 times before it did this and for around 8-10 minutes and temperatures were never really that hot.

                    Comment

                    • Mxkid261
                      Senior Member
                      • Jun 2015
                      • 734

                      #40
                      I would like to think that this ESC should be capable of running longer than 5 minutes but maybe Im wrong? I beat the living crap out of my spartan for over a year always on 6s and never had a hiccup up until a month ago so thats why I bought the hobbywing 180, and this was with 10-12 minute runs sometimes 3 sets of packs in a row. I find it hard to believe I wouldnt be able to do the same with a 180a esc but again maybe Im completely wrong.
                      Last edited by Mxkid261; 07-08-2015, 01:20 PM.

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                      • domwilson
                        Moderator
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 4408

                        #41
                        Did you remove the older caps before you installed the new ones? Many times when caps blow, they effectively become shorts.
                        Government Moto:
                        "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

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                        • dmitry100
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Mar 2015
                          • 1264

                          #42
                          domwilson: Can caps ever blow or get screwed up in any way without changing form or getting leaky, etc? I ask because a leg on all 4 of my stock caps on my SF 200A 8s look like they have either burnt and shorted or bent to the point of ripping the legs in half... which I find hard to believe that I could mess them up that badly when repacking/retaping the ESC. Especially since it happened to all 4 of the caps. Though... I resoldered them back-- the ESC works fine and has an additional big cap bank. I noticed this sometime after a meltdown of 2 tp4050 motors... this ESC was the only one without an additional cap bank (the other ESC had the additional one) so I'm starting to think it might actually be a good idea to just replace them with new ones.

                          Comment

                          • dmitry100
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Mar 2015
                            • 1264

                            #43
                            mxkid261: I have had a similar episode with a Seaking180 ... except the ESC literally blew up and the pressure ripped through the front of the carbon fiber hull blasting into my leg lol. But anyways... my point is that it seemed like it could have been caused by the motor shorting and overheating. These ESC don't seem as bulletproof as people make it seem to be. Perhaps check out your motor and your soldering on the plugs.

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                            • mihelone
                              Junior Member
                              • Feb 2015
                              • 8

                              #44
                              This is the link for the video with the osprey I am talking about with all the mods (replace caps, external bec).

                              Comment

                              • Mxkid261
                                Senior Member
                                • Jun 2015
                                • 734

                                #45
                                Domwilson yes I removed all 4 old caps before soldering in 1 new one to bench test. Dmitry that must have been quite the pop LOL. I have a feeling the pos castle motor maybe took it out. I hooked up the vxl-6s and everything powered up as normal.

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