Pheonix cooling

[T.S.Davis]

I know a number of you have converted the Phoenix ICE controllers and added water cooling.

Would you be willing to share how you added the cooling? I know there are some creative guys doing this. Was curious how you were doing it.

[Fluid]

Today I am using two copper cooling tubes attached to the buss bars on the sides of the controller, on the control board side. These bars need to be cleaned thoroughly with a wire brush as there is a residue on them which can effect heat transfer and tube adherence. I use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive epoxy to attach the tubes rather than solder, the latter is tricky to do without damaging the ESC. It is vital to get the tube in contact with the bar, I use clothespins while the epoxy cures.

If it is a high-amp draw use I will sometimes solder a few 1000 mF caps between the power wires where they attach to the bars.

You might need a PiStix if you don't use a Spektrum or Futaba controller.
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[longballlumber]

Here is a couple of the ICE Lite that I did...

[longballlumber]

This is 100amp and 200amp Edge Lite...

[Darin Jordan]

Here is how I was doing it.

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I now am trying it like Jay T. (and Brian) do it... affix a pair of cooling tubes directly to the bus-bars. I don't think it's necessary to have tubes on both sides... just on the side opposite the wires.

[ray schrauwen]

If you search Ebay they sell battery cooling plates extruded like mine. just cut to suit, less adhesives.

I received a free plate from Doby and have made great use of it doing this XL-2, SF 200 and a SF240.

[T.S.Davis]

I have a few hydra with the green cooling box. I don't trust the green cooling box. Isn't it just a Phoenix in a different case?

[Fluid]

The parts which do the work (not the green aluminum) are the same. You can remove the green metal but there will be a bit of adhesive/thermal grease to clean off the buss bars. I did it and it works.

The firmware is different though and the non-Hydras will need either a PiStix or a radio which will give enough throttle adjustment.


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[kfxguy]

Does this count? Lol















My post didn't help much did it?

[NativePaul]

While I prefer the lighter methods that have been posted already, it is always good to have alternatives and I am sure it will be helpful to some. It looks like it will work well, and aesthetically it is very neat.

[NeverEnuff]

Here is my twist on the subject. I machined some bars out of 1/4" flat stock I had. Then I used Arctic MX-4 for thermal compound with heat shrink around the whole thing. Also, I would like to thank everyone for posting, I got my ideas from Fluid's original post.
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[ray schrauwen]

Nice work. I changed out my caps for Rubycons.

[oscarel]

Any one done a before and after to see how much the cooling plates help?

[Fluid]

A "Lite" will burn up without cooling - saw a friend run his without a cooling line hooked up - smoked it. Another said that soldering the cooling tubes directly to the buss bars lowered his ESC temps by ~20 degrees compared to using the cooled aluminum extensions wrapped around the bars.



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[T.S.Davis]

Holy crap. Can you do that without killing the thing Jay?

I have an idea in my head that includes brass plates and some soldering. Soldering tube the the buss blocks sounds risky.