Jeti Spin Pro 300

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • oscarel
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Dec 2009
    • 2129

    #1

    Jeti Spin Pro 300

    I bought one of these last year to replace an MGM 25063 and added 7/16 aluminum to both sides for cooling and it's held up very well. I won district 7 open cat and came within a few points of winning the RC Boat World Champ series with it. I have it in an F41 cat and it's been rock solid. I purchased it from here last year during Cyber Monday. Esprit is advertising it as 300 amps but Jeti shows it as being 220.

    20151228_161933.jpg20151228_161946.jpg
  • kfxguy
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Oct 2013
    • 8746

    #2
    That's an expensive controller right there! Five hundred dolla! Is it better than a swordfish 300?
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

    Comment

    • oscarel
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Dec 2009
      • 2129

      #3
      Originally posted by kfxguy
      That's an expensive controller right there! Five hundred dolla! Is it better than a swordfish 300?
      So is the MGM it replaced. I almost got run over coming out of a corner when the MGM stalled, that hasn't happened with this controller. The swordfish has a higher current rating than this one, so in that aspect I'd say no. But I don't care for the cooling on the swordfish. This same setup with swordfish the temps on the controller showed 82.6c and the Jeti is showing 60c. Have you found an easy way to add more cooling to the swordfish??

      Comment

      • Jamey
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2015
        • 199

        #4
        Originally posted by oscarel
        .... Have you found an easy way to add more cooling to the swordfish??
        I noticed like everyone else that the nipples on the end that loops back around are pretty tiny. Having all the water flow through both of those nipples is an obvious restriction. I think I am going to "parallel" these nipples with a high flow Y before the esc and another after. I know Y's and T's can alter flow to the path of least resistance but in this case they should be the same. I think that will basically double the water flow through the esc and not to mention pass cool water down both sides.

        Comment

        • oscarel
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Dec 2009
          • 2129

          #5
          Thanks James, I bored out that end a little but sure there's got to be a way to add more cooling. I swapped the jet for the swordfish on my 10s hydro and it's internal temp was 42c where the swordfish was it the 70s, this was in cooler water. So far it's held up and I'm going to leave it there for next week's race. I emailed jet and they said with good cooling it will handle 300 continuous, this was in cooler water..
          Last edited by oscarel; 03-10-2016, 01:33 PM.

          Comment

          • Jamey
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2015
            • 199

            #6
            How many amps are you pulling continuous with that big lehner for it to run that warm?

            Comment

            • oscarel
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Dec 2009
              • 2129

              #7
              Average of 220 with spikes in 320 range. Have you seen the cooling on the swordfish? It has 2 lines soldered to board, nothing on fets. I think this is how Schultze does it but with better material I'm sure.

              Comment

              • Jamey
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2015
                • 199

                #8
                I haven't cut the shrink all off but I did cut it back enough to see the reduced size nipples on the return side. But yeah I did notice in your pictures the cooling is just on the board. I need to refresh my memory but is there no room for you to add an aluminum block in between the tubes, laying on the fets?

                Has your swordfish actually thermaled out or you just see the logged high temps?

                Comment

                • Jamey
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2015
                  • 199

                  #9
                  I went back and looked at your pics. I can see how it would be difficult to build something since it would have to somehow straddle the tubes.

                  Comment

                  • oscarel
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 2129

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jamey
                    I haven't cut the shrink all off but I did cut it back enough to see the reduced size nipples on the return side. But yeah I did notice in your pictures the cooling is just on the board. I need to refresh my memory but is there no room for you to add an aluminum block in between the tubes, laying on the fets?

                    Has your swordfish actually thermaled out or you just see the logged high temps?
                    So far just see the high temps.

                    Comment

                    Working...