German esc mod thread. Two 150 a escs made into one 300a

[ray schrauwen]

I've tried to translate some of this but, the instructions aren't clear.

Once I tried to stack 4 or 5 plates of 2 suppo escs with one control board and it fried, I think because the phases were incorrectly connected.

Here they have success with 2 YEP ESCs $50 each and run 300 amps through it.

Have a read in German.

http://www.hydroworld.de/vb/showthread.php?11622-1-6s-300A-Regler-f%FCr-wenig-geld-und-leicht-selbst-zu-bauen

[revoltrunner]

Here it is in English

6s 300A controller for little money and easy to build


I had promised Yes price after the SAW to give how I built the controller for 1 s.

Some have noticed also on the SAW as I quickly one or two of the controls made.
Such a conversion will take if necessary 30min

Starting point is the YEP 150 or Rotostar 150 from hobby King.
For those who like expensive can take like a 120 YGE...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html

When they are between 40 and €50 per piece.

Step 1: Remove Schrumpfschlach. Then, the Control Board is removed when a controller.
There much ENT löten removal soldering is expensive... Dremel... Cut blade and the PIN contact Strip. The Control Board then it falls off.

Step 2: ( only if the controller with 1 s operations should be!) otherwise continue to step 3!
The controller must not be undersupplied, therefore it is necessary to provide them with a battery. I took a Lipo 2s 350mah my 1s Mono.
To the controller a controller still has must now pin 2 between power and Control Board on the PIN Strip to be cut. Counted from the electrolytic capacitors from pin 3 and 4! There is a cable angelötet(servokabel) which comes to the positive pole of the Stützakkus on the top then. The wars with the modification for 1s on the hardware level. Yet the low-voltage cut-off must be disabled in the software. Either Progcard vie or getüddel via the transmitter.
The minus pole of the Sütz and drive battery must be placed only still together. I have soldered just a small 2mm gold contact bushing on the large 6 mm Goldi to the power battery me where I have with plugged the battery in minus.

Step 3: Connect the power Board. To get more power, the power boards are doubled. We have removed the control board already with a knob. The rest rest, so the power boards we lay side by side image now like on this or glue them. Some cyano glue on the edge of the power Board and the other glue. Now nothing can slip and we need only with a thin wire and soldering iron connect the male connectors

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m1pk8-TktvM/VfbDzT6IqYI/AAAAAAAAFCA/kdc1KtNgTKw/s640-Ic42/WP_20150806_00_34_30_Pro.jpg

Only the two plus supply lines as well as negative connect supply lines. The same for the motor cables. Making sure you Correct phases together to connect!

Get ready!

Now, still water cooler can be mounted. To do even the small orange color end it by TFL or it cuts to stop even what like this:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7TCCinj6Jr8/VdT0ZqilPlI/AAAAAAAAE_g/7PMjihVV0us/s640-Ic42/WP_20150814_001.jpg

If you like can be added like some electrolytic capacitors. I did that but it has been shown that it is not needed.

On the SAW, we built another one also for Lars. So he drove in his Psyducer a 4035-1900 and 6s. Even without Watercooling because his pump didn't.
The regulator does its duty perfectly!

In the 1s Mono I pushed in the last ride 350A via the control, the first trips were with 280A


The conversion is not rocket science and secure an alternative for all drives of 1-6s and 300A.
I can make a few more photos again if that is desired and nötog

greeting
Sascha

PS: it would be happy if this opens the door to the 1s classes some and the starting field next time something bigger that

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks, that's about what I got. He doesn't tell you how to connect the correct phases together.

This is the marine version http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo..._ICE-150A.html

[axel]

Hi Ray
you only have to look at the Pic and remember how it was connected before

WP_20150806_00_34_30_Pro1.JPG

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks Axel!

[Shimpa]

I did this about a year ago "for science" and the conclusion is yes it works however in my opinion it's not worth it.

The price of 2 yep's is 120$+shipping and customs charges.

T180 is like 75$+shipping and customs. Yes it's "only" 180A however there are a few bonuses like waanty, water resistance and 5 hours of extra time that I'd rather spend on something else.

If you want to make something like that go for it but as far as I'm concerned it's just too fiddly and unreliable not to mention expensive especially if it smokes.

Hobbyking does however offer an ESC that I wouldn't think twice about using and modifying for water cooling, the 250A hv one.

[ray schrauwen]

I did this about a year ago "for science" and the conclusion is yes it works however in my opinion it's not worth it.

The price of 2 yep's is 120$+shipping and customs charges.

T180 is like 75$+shipping and customs. Yes it's "only" 180A however there are a few bonuses like waanty, water resistance and 5 hours of extra time that I'd rather spend on something else.

If you want to make something like that go for it but as far as I'm concerned it's just too fiddly and unreliable not to mention expensive especially if it smokes.

Hobbyking does however offer an ESC that I wouldn't think twice about using and modifying for water cooling, the 250A hv one.

Thank you sir.

I looked at the Delux esc and that modification thread too.

No need for an esc right now but maybe in future.