Castle Ice controllers
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Bringing up a old thread, Haven't heard from Joe Ford in a while. I hope he is still bit by the boat bug. I have a new 6s hull on the table and I need a ESC for it. I was really hoping the Hydra ICE controllers would be out by now BUT since they are not I am going to buy a the Phoenix ICE 200 with a Pistix so I can still use my wheel radio. IS anyone one else using his controller in a boat? It def looks beefy enough even though there is no water cooling I will just put a nice fan on it and I am sure it will be fine. With the built in data logging and bec I think this controller will be golden.Team Liquid DashComment
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I have and they are great. Lots of features and very smooth throttle operation. I'll be trying the 200 amp model, to compare directly with a Turnigy 180 in my Rico.
Raydee pm replied.If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!Comment
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Thanks for the reply. What setup did you use with the ice 100? I am def going to try the ice 200 in my sprintcat, I am going to try to get away with fan cooling and see how it goes.Team Liquid DashComment
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The Ice 100 was run on many setups. I tried it with a sv motor (prop M645)and a Feigao 12l M445 with cup) in a SV27. I ran it in my BBY OM29 with a 12l and a 8xl on 4s both with X445. I have run both boats on 6s a couple of times and it handled well even with the BEC.If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!Comment
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WOW I saw the vid of your SV on 6s.....LOLOL that boat was moving. I think the 100 will do just fine in a 4s hull.Team Liquid DashComment
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Raydee,
I will be watching your progress with the Ice 200 on 6S. Please report back your findings.
Later
MikeComment
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Has anyone added water cooling to the Ice 100? Would it be possible to remove the heat sink and add a water cooled one? I have been using a Turnigy Marine 120 A on 4 cells with the UL-1 motor at 90+ amps with good luck but would like the data logging of the Ice.Comment
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You dont have to remove the heatsink. Just run tubes through them. They work great like thatIf all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!Comment
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Yes but for the spec class then I am carrying more weight than needed. If I could remove all that extra aluminum that is not doing much good and get the water cooled plate in direct contact with the FETs it would be far better for what I want to do. Just running tube through the existing heat sink would not give very effective heat transfer due to such little contact area between the tube and the heat sink. Does anybody know where to find the on resistance of the 100 Amp ICE?Comment
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Joe is awesome.He has helped me numerous times over the phone.Many thanks go to you,Joe.I know if any of us has a prob,he can set us straight.(not that I havent recieved help from here before).Comment
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The heatsink is glued to the fets. You run the tubes directly in the heatsink right above the fets. Its the same as taking it off and putting on a plate. If you are trying to save that small amount of weight which is +- 1oz. i would look elsewhere to save it.If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!Comment
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One important function of the heat sink is the large increase in the thermal mass of the controller. Even without water or air flow the heat sink will let the ESC run without overheating quickly since it has to heat up that chunk of aluminum. I run my ICE 100 in cats and sport hydros where there is plenty of hull volume and overheating hasn't been a problem, even with 170+ amp spikes on 6S....but I only run for 2 minute heats. The lack of much air volume in a rigger is an issue, but I agree that water cooling with either drilling holes in the sink or putting tubing in the slots would help cooling a lot. I would not remove the heat sink.
My ICE 100 has logged ESC temps of over 250F without problems.....
.Last edited by Fluid; 06-04-2010, 07:23 AM.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
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