batts is too hot! please help!

[martin]

Yep if batteries are getting hot then theirs something wrong with the set up & needs addressing, as said water cooling the batteries is not the answer. you need to know why their getting hot & change whatever is nessesary on the set up.

[iridebikes247]

This is strange to me because the op mentions the motor/esc are nice and cool. He has a 2200kv leopard on 4s, I have never run a high amp draw setup my motors are much lower kv but this still seems strange as the batteries are a claimed 50c. I suppose the best test would be dropping in another set of batteries and seeing how they act after a run. My packs never make it above 105 and thats in 80 degree weather, perhaps my setups are too conservative. A temperature gun reading would be helpful.

To the op are BOTH packs becoming unreasonably warm? I wonder if there is an iffy solder joint somewhere....well whatever another set soft lipo packs will really help you narrow down.

[Doby]

Buy some max amps batteries and get dual cooling system.

A useless gimmick.

[iridebikes247]

Weird to me that maxamps would release such a product, needless to say I won't be buying their stuff.

[Bduncan]

I wasn't not referring to max amps I. Terms of a dual cooing system. But I will say max amps batteries are superior to anything I have used and customer service is great. In interest of full disclosure, I have nothing to gain by suggesting max amps batteries. I have had onyx and venom in the past for many different rc items. Rct8e 1/8 trugee running 1515 motor 4s, slash with Sct race prorunning 3s 16 pinion, supercub brushless with 3s max amp 2000 mah (great set up by the way). And last but not least my spartan. Do I think the 150c max Burst exist, no. But thy do make damn good batteries. This forum is littered with heat issues. I don't have any and I run everything I own hard.

On th spartan, the dual rudder pick up drilled out, larger tubes and two exits has cooled both my esc and motor significantly. 6s getting 8 minutes of bashing on The water.

[iridebikes247]

I don't feel like spending $170+ per 6s pack, I would rather run gens ace. I never draw high current for extended periods of time and I stick to higher voltage setups. I can't and won't spend the money on maxamps packs they're the battery experts and they released a product that cools down packs when in reality lipo packs like a bit of heat. The logic behind a system like this is flawed, you don't need to water cool your packs to have a boat that runs properly. It irks me that such a great company stands behind a product that hampers the performance of their very own premium packs!

@Bduncan-I think maxamps is one of the only companies that has a product like this? Plus this guy runs 2s packs in series so its reasonable for all of us to make the "water cooling + 2s series packs = max amps product," connection in our heads, apologies if we were mistaken. Anyway welcome to the forum bud, spartan is a fun boat and is on my list for boats this coming season.

[Bduncan]

When I said dual cooling I meant regular cooling JA. I'm not aware max amps has a cooling system for batteries.

[Jfive]

I knew i will run into problems at some point with EP boats setups. Hence i got some cheap electrics to start with.

I appreciate all your inputs guys. Much appreciated. Have a great day.

Cheers
Johnny

[Heaving Earth]

if i were to spend the big bucks on lipos, i would opt for hyperion.
regardless, the batteries arent the main issue in this thread, there is other stuff goin on

[martin]

When I said dual cooling I meant regular cooling JA. I'm not aware max amps has a cooling system for batteries.

Max amps do watercooled lipos, this is probably what everyone thought you were refering to with dual cooling.

[Bduncan]

You know what happens when peoe assume and they get negative. Silly

[Bduncan]

Flipped one of my boats. Max amp battery flew out and was on bottom of pond for two days. My buddy went. I. With goggles and it works perfectly.

[Cooper]

I agree Hyperion batts are one of the good batteries. But most of mine are turnigy nanos. I have had batts swell and get killed from to much discharge. To me its odd that these packs are getting that hot and 1 not swelling to the point of bursting the hard case, 2 takeing a charge afterwards, 3 being able to discharge that charge for the said 5~7 min runs again. If they are getting that hot and still working that well then darn they are pretty good batts. Several good points were made, hard case packs with small connectors create more resistance in the system. How good are the solder joints elsewhere ? If those packs are rated for 250+ amps I don't think his setup was pulling that for 5-7 min. Probably spiking to 150 amps and leveling at around 80-100. Those batts should Handel that easly. Are you able to charge then run and charge again for about 5 times in a row? Cus if you can then they can't be damaged in any way. It just seems to me that the batteries can't keep up with the speedo and motor, but if that was the case I think the batts would have been damaged to the point of not lasting for more than a minute or two or just not takeing a charge.

[Bduncan]

I have castle motors in all of my rc vehicles. I use the field link 90 percent of the time. The castle designed system doesn't accept the field link but you can use the castle link software with it. One of the most helpful and sophisticated settings is the "torque test" which you can do on any castle esc motor combo. Even though a motor says 1800 kv it could more or less according to castle. This is an awesome feature. The castle link computer adapter is 20 bucks. The software is free

[Bduncan]

I would encourage anyone with spartan to get the castle link. You can switch motor direction increase decrease reverse etc, lower motor timing, lower start power (in there for slow turn motors not castle by the way) etc...