Does anybody have setup instructions for this hull?
H&M Xzess Hydro II instructions
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sailr,
there is quite a bit on this forum about the Xzess 2 setup. andym had one and can tell you quite a bit. I have 2 of them. egneg has 1 and there are at least 2 other guys but I can not think of their names at the moment. Is there anything in particular that you want to know?Several boats in various stages of destruction -
Thanks! I have never set up a rigger. I have the hull and need to know a little about the drive offset (if any), rudder depth, strut type/angle, CG, etc.
Planning to do this one as a SPEC rigger with UL-1 motor, 4S.
I'll just do a search of the forums then. Thanks again!!Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.comComment
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http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6973
There are some comments about the Xzess 2 on my "For andym" thread but it is getting quite long and might take a bit of finding.
I hope that helps. Only too happy to help if you have problems. You will love this boat.Several boats in various stages of destructionComment
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There are quite a few fast rigger runners here who can help, I can too.
I have two riggers and have done a bit of reading on the subject over the last few years.
Given a few dimensions and angles I can help you with a start point.
Very cool to see you want to search for info and do a little reading first.
Is this your first rigger ?
I am always happy to help.See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with woodComment
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Thanks Simon! I'm starting with the H&M Xzess Hydro II hull. I will be using the UL-1 motor from AQ.
My main questions are:
strut offset? How much?
Rudder length (oval racing, not SAW)?
Props: lifting? Not lifting? size?
CG location?
I run monos and regular hydros. I'm not a beginner. Just have never done a rigger. I'm going to be doing other riggers as well for 2P and 4P classes.
There are quite a few fast rigger runners here who can help, I can too.
I have two riggers and have done a bit of reading on the subject over the last few years.
Given a few dimensions and angles I can help you with a start point.
Very cool to see you want to search for info and do a little reading first.
Is this your first rigger ?
I am always happy to help.Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.comComment
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I will chime in to say that Xzessperated and Andym are masters when it comes to this rigger and they're very generous with their advice. I am saving to build this rigger in the fall/winter after more running experience on my DF22 hydro. Riggers are trickier to set up than a hydro. Here is a useful thread on the XzessII rigger:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6082Mean Machine Cat: 9XL, 4S2P, CC120, M545 (50mph) -- DF22 Hydro: 8L, 3S1P/4500, CC120, x637 (49mph) -- M-1 SuperCat: 1521/1Y, 6S2P, CC240, x447 (61mph) -- SV27 Mono: stock setup, 14-cell/4200, x642 (42mph) -- Micro Scat Cat: 28-3600, 3S1P/2100, Turnigy 60, x430 (41mph)Comment
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Thanks for putting that link in 10guage. There is quite a lot of information about the hull setup but always hard to remember where it is.
Jim,
I will give you a few of my thoughts about the setup of this hull and they should be good starting points. I have 2 Xzess 2's. One with a Neu 1515 1y on 4s and the other on a Feigao 6xl on 4s. The bigger the turn fin the more they pull to the right so I hope that helps you decide about strut offset. I would add a little offset.
Strut depth is between 18 to 20mm.
As far as rudder length goes I have used a standard Solinger one and it works fine.
These hulls will blow over so CoG is important. You can see in the linked threads we have added to your thread there is some talk and pictures of how to cut the rear CF boom so you can adjust the CoG more easily. The further forward you get the batteries at speeds above 50mph the better. My 75mph one has lead weight added to the nose. Jay Turner is an advocate of adding weight to today's boats to keep them on the water and I have to agree with him. Naturally if we add weight it is better to add it as strength but in this case it had to be lead. My advice is get your weight as far forward as possible and then move it back a little at a time if it does not blow over. That is easy as you can adjust the CoG by moving the Lipo back and forward until you get the sweet spot. The faster you go the further forward you want the CoG because those winglets over the booms catch a lot of air once it lifts its nose.
It is hard for me to advise you on a prop but my best speed in the 6xl boat was with an X642. Best speed was with a V937 on the 1515 1.5y motor. I have changed that motor to a 1515 1y motor now and I am still in the testing stages as to what prop is good. Best speed so far is with an M545.
I hope some of this helps.
Andym might throw you a buoy also if he reads this thread.Last edited by Xzessperated; 05-10-2009, 07:14 PM.Several boats in various stages of destructionComment
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Mate as far as riggers go these are very easy to set up, put your hardware on( rudder and strut) I like the rudder on the outside on this hull( gives good down force on inside sponson in the turns) your servo. Get rid of the rear boom. Place your 4s pack in the nose. Next is your motor and mount. I place a piece of 1/2 round under the tub and aim for 1-1/2" behind the sponson. When it looks OK epoxy in that mount and do the stuffing tube dance. When these ran nickel packs and brushed motors they ran a CG much further back( approx 30% of after plain) but at 65+ mph this does not work on this rigger like it does on the XS3 like Paddy said this hull will blopw over and the only real fix is a forward CoG, 1-2 deg out on the rudder, neutral strut and do not go under about 18mm on strut depth. I have spent in excess of 100 hrs setting up this rigger and have had them well planted and doing tight turns well over 100 kph. Good luck and if you do not like this hull PM me as am thinking of another with some mods that have been in the back of my head for a while.Comment
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Thanks Andy. That is the quickest and easiest setup info yet and all in one post! You da man! Care to share your mod ideas?Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.comComment
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I believe they are form the days of Ni cells. Fair call Ni cells are still widely used.
With The power and weight advantage that Lipo gives I beleive the winglets are not needed.
A bit of cf and wing loss sound like a good call to me given the amount of work that you and Paddy did neutralising the lift of those wings.
Watching.
Oh is that beer time ??......see ya !See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with woodComment
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