Thanks Bonewar. Yes dialing in is proving a fun little exercise.
I have noticed that this hull has two challenges, 1) the hatch is quite far back and 2) the ride pads actually rise from the last step to the transom... this requires full down on the struts. Once I enabled this, I snapped another drive line and now need to go back and modify the teflon liner - basically remove some at the transom to give the wire more freedom to make the bend.
Thanks Bonewar. Yes dialing in is proving a fun little exercise.
I have noticed that this hull has two challenges, 1) the hatch is quite far back and 2) the ride pads actually rise from the last step to the transom... this requires full down on the struts. Once I enabled this, I snapped another drive line and now need to go back and modify the teflon liner - basically remove some at the transom to give the wire more freedom to make the bend.
NOOOOOOO.... YOULL GET IT!!!!A LITTLE MORE LOVE AND THE GIRLS WILL BE PLEASED
So, I think we need a little more grip on the wire drives. Jeff is gonna hook me up with some set screws IN the stubs. This will be combined with super loctite and totally abandon the solder on these specialty drive lines. I think the 6mm stubs produce a little more drag and the torque of the motors just over power the joints.
In the mean time, I have resurrected my 27" wiredrive balsa cat from Bozeman for our time in Denver area. here are some choice pics.
I have the proboat combo in her on 4S and an X442 (the surviving prop from the intruder pair .
I would post a vid, but it is only for analysis purposes, so no fancy Zichanator glamor. Ahh what the heck, here it is:
My goal is to set this up for 5-6S, with that Turnigy 100amp esc I got here - after I water cool it. Might have to prop back to 440 for that action. After a 5 minute joy ride, the packs were at 75% and temps were under 100 for motor/esc.
Please feel free to comment on ride of the Geico, I am all ears. I probably have CG too far back, batts are against the transom. I will get some shots of interior soon.
As many of us, economics put a temporary hold on her, but now she just passed the bench test = ready!
I had to sell off my beautiful Neus that Peter and I so diligently constructed mounts for. BUT, these mounts have surpassed single use design - THEY STILL ROCK!!! I have since replaced with two BJ motor/esc systems (you read right). These motors are my very favorite (nonblack) motors and the ESCs ought to be fine on at least 4S, we will see if I have to pull out the big 5S guns or more. Plus, I get BEC!!!
Jeff hooked me up with some beefy .098" wire drives and we will be spinning Egnegs detounged x442 props. I will go for a test today (record heat for this time of year in Bozeman - almost 90!). I am optimistic as both motors kicked in at the same time indicating we have pretty even drag on the drives.
We will see if I can get rid of that porpoising crap by going FULL down trim on the drives and getting weight far as possible forward (at this point due to physical constraints, it is tough to get it more than 30%).
What do you guys think about this hull?? I am tempted to flatten out the slight rise to the transom from the last step... any thoughts??
Woohoohooo jesse!!! Your strut angle is really extream!!! Something isnt right. I dont think you should have to put more than 2-3 deg.neg-angle w/ the correct cg. Youve got everything pretty far up, ? Weird......
Hmmm, this may sound weird, but, maybe the negative angle on the struts along with the cg being forward is forcing the bows into the water. Then the buoyancy of the hull along with the lift from the tunnel is lifting it back up? That strut angle is sooo extreme that something must be waaay off! Have you tried running them flat yet?
I have started with them flat and then gradually lower. I agree, strut angle is spooky low, but I need to see how she runs before I change them again. See the other videos and you can see how she bobs. My theory is that if I have them down like this they will give lift and get her riding more flatter. I will try to get her goin tomorrow and report back.
I have even wondered if they need to be up, but that sounds to crazy. If this doesn't work then I try them positive angle or cut open the hood and add a brick.
Hmmm, this may sound weird, but, maybe the negative angle on the struts along with the cg being forward is forcing the bows into the water. Then the buoyancy of the hull along with the lift from the tunnel is lifting it back up? That strut angle is sooo extreme that something must be waaay off! Have you tried running them flat yet?
That's what I'm thinking..
possibly working against its self
I've seen this boat up close and it is a great looking cat!
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
That's what I'm thinking..
possibly working against its self
I've seen this boat up close and it is a great looking cat!
no doubt , great looking cat!!! i had to go down and check out ny timo's strut angles.. im at 2 deg pos angle.. but my boats much heavier w/ c.g ??? not really sure , but it must be pretty far up.. but again , look how far forward all hit guts are!!! i dont get it....im kinda thinking the struts are too far in the water, sooo yeah maybe try some pos. angle....and weight (brick) the front if it continues..
I had major porpoising problems when I first ran my twin Jolly, moved c/g back and forth, struts up and down, even tried lead weight up in the bows, nothing worked. She would bounce up and down right up to almost full speed( 90kph) when she would settle down and run flat.
Finally fitted a rear tunnel flap which instantly transformed the ride.
Check out threads on Jolly Magic Part.
It's basically an extension of the tunnel out beyond the rear of the sponsons and the difference it made was amazing.
Graham.
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