MHZ Mystic - 840mm

[autolex]

Hello All,

I decided to pull the trigger on an "ARTR" MHZ Mystic CFK 840mm build to replace the many-times-sunk proboat blackjack 24" in my fleet that needs to be retired.

I ordered online and the new hull showed up packaged perfectly about a week later direct to the US from germany.

Looking forward to building this one slowly and the right way.

Ordered/On-hand

2x OSE 150A ESC's
2x SSS 3674 2550KV motors
1x Promodeler DS490BLHV
2x Yowoo 4S 4000mah batteries that fit in the trays
2x 38/40mm cnc props for both sides (normal and reverse)
2x dual cnc ose water inlets
4x cnc ose water outlets

Need to figure out:

One piece flex shafts would make me happier reliability wise than the glued MHZ ones
Radio setup
Much reinforcement of many places where mounts appear to just be CA glued into place
Deck reinforcement plate/foam
Rework water inlets, they're at least 1/8" out of flush on the bottom of the hull and apparently epoxied into place, may redo
ESC Mounts
Cap Bank



Thanks, and feel free to ask questions/offer advice! this hull is going to be my fastest so far and it's a tight one!

[fweasel]

1 piece cables are junk, in my opinion. A properly glued flex cable (loctite 648) and solid propshaft will not fail on it's own.

[autolex]

cooling modified OSE 150's finished (just a cheap waterblock to make them narrower), going to start electronics layout this week most likely so I can rough in mounts for everything. Cutting out the factory plastic water inlets looks like a giant pain but I may try it anyway.

[koen]

with the one piece cables they will break behind the prop shaft always ,the MHZ system is superior ,and stick to metal props plastic props disintegrate at 40mph and this boat can reach 80mph with ease

[autolex]

1 piece cables are junk, in my opinion. A properly glued flex cable (loctite 648) and solid propshaft will not fail on it's own.

with the one piece cables they will break behind the prop shaft always ,the MHZ system is superior ,and stick to metal props plastic props disintegrate at 40mph and this boat can reach 80mph with ease

Noted: Happy to not have to rebuy things, it came with glued ones! I have some 38/40mm 1.4 pitch cnc to start with, planning on going higher pitch when/if necessary.

Looking around at the build quality as with the 114's I'm probably going to pull a lot of the hardware in here out and redo it the right way. The starboard flex shaft tube is vastly longer than the port side (though lined up better).

I think I'll just unbolt the whole thing and grind away a lot of little errors and fill them and put things in perfectly lined up and even. While I'm in there I can put in dual water feeds per side that are flush (factory plastic ones clearly weren't installed level).

Next items: pull all stern hardware, build esc tray, order a radio setup, fix the flex tubes and water inlets, start laying out strategic reinforcement areas including some kind of deck support.

[autolex]

Cheap radio ordered, 37200uF Capacitor bank/parallel bus built (needs cut down and final finished but should allow the boat to run both motors on a single 3S pack for bashing around, will only ever be charged to 4/5S voltages)

[autolex]

Looking around at the build quality as with the 114's I'm probably going to pull a lot of the hardware in here out and redo it the right way. The starboard flex shaft tube is vastly longer than the port side (though lined up better).

Stuffing tube was barely inserted into the strut through hull. I think i'm going to ditch the oiler and perforated teflon liner and just put a new piece of teflon in there. After reinserting the stuffing tube and aligning I think I can make the factory layout work fine.

next: grinding!