Mhz mystic 114 build

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Here's a vid of the seam in the hull:

https://www.brighteon.com/4bee9813-1c9c-4109-b22a-7eeaeab5be25

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Seam-reinforcer in in the hull. Wetted the mating parts with resin first, then caked on the mud and mashed it in place. Majority of the work was cleaning up the squished-out mud, but I know for sure there are no voids between the mated surfaces.

I'll sand clean the surface part for the deck tomorrow.

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[Dirk Jan]

Great job, and interesting technique! That will be a strong hull [emoji106]

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-S911B met Tapatalk

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I hope I never have to find out how strong it will be...

It is ready for deck, but I will be fitting out the components, pouring foam, etc, before that.

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[PlayerUnknown069]

Who makes the best collets? My left motor keeps burn shafts no matter how tight I crank it. The threads come loose. I even tried the OSE reverse collet with no luck.

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Who makes the best collets? My left motor keeps burn shafts no matter how tight I crank it. The threads come loose. I even tried the OSE reverse collet with no luck.

I think I asked the same question somewhere. I'll search that out too.

Started the motor mounts:

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[Dirk Jan]

I use CNC ER8 collets on my powerful boats. They work great:


They don't vibrate either.
But, please check if your driveline runs free, and always leave 2mm of space between your stinger / powertrim and the prop shaft.

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[PlayerUnknown069]

I think I asked the same question somewhere. I'll search that out too.

Started the motor mounts:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]178997[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]178998[/ATTACH]

Keep me posted as my shaft and collet keep getting smoked on the left side for some reason. Boat did 96mph first run with a slipping collet.

What struts and mounts are you using? The MHZ strut has a 3.5 degree negative down angle at its most neutral position. It will not go any higher, you have to grind the black struts mounting base like 2.5mm to get a true zero degree neutral position with the bottom of the sponsons. With that said, the boat ran flat and stable with the stock 3.5 degree down angle. I do believe less would get the boat a little more out of the water. The XLX2 are heavy! I would get the motors a little further back than mine and shorten the gap between the bearing mount and cooler. I have too much shaft hanging out. Honestly xlx2 is over kill unless we go with larger hogs like TP4070’s. I had to move the MHZ ecs tray back, it was impossible to get batteries in even after trimming the canopy lip as much as possible.
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I'm using the stock MHZ drives. I ground my trim-adjusters down too, to get more travel, but I also guessed that with the drives being a wee bit down, that the boat will run fine.

All of my drive system will be in the sponsons, for the lowest possible COG. Nothing will be on the bridgedeck, in case I need more floatation after that test. If it passes the float-test, a new canopy with scale cockpit and drivers might be done in the future. maybe not...

Half-way between the transom & first step (4,3/16") will be the motor bulkhead. Immediately after that will be the ESC, then the battery in front of that. It balanced out near perfectly when I first put the goods in the sponsons.

I like to go overkill on ESC's. Spend the money once...

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

I use CNC ER8 collets on my powerful boats. They work great:


They don't vibrate either.
But, please check if your driveline runs free, and always leave 2mm of space between your stinger / powertrim and the prop shaft.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-S911B met Tapatalk

Thank you Sir.

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Just found these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005922802105.html?src=google&aff_fcid=a716f9f58dcf409280ab86e4acc0fd05-1710433092760-01167-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=a716f9f58dcf409280ab86e4acc0fd05-1710433092760-01167-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=d5f8cb774f4a4f95947222917e766f7b&afSmartRedirect=y

[PlayerUnknown069]

I use CNC ER8 collets on my powerful boats. They work great:


They don't vibrate either.
But, please check if your driveline runs free, and always leave 2mm of space between your stinger / powertrim and the prop shaft.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-S911B met Tapatalk

Dirk, check this link https://a.co/d/70OloUR

Are you saying this style of collet is better?

[PlayerUnknown069]

Just found these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...martRedirect=y

These look great, I wonder how they hold up. I like the nut on these, looks like they would lock way better.

[PlayerUnknown069]

I know that boat! I watched your videos on YouTube! That’s the second Carbon wild thing build if I recall.

[Dirk Jan]

I use the Ali Express versions too. I wasn't sure about the forum policy, posting a link to them.

The collets you show from Amazon and Ali are the right ones. You can use a 5mm collet for a 4.76mm shaft. I use them like that. The collet cone has 6 splits, instead of the regular 4 of the 'RC boat' collets. You can tighten them very well with the nut.

The boat in my previous post is Wildthing based, but it has a different hull design. It's narrower, has a slightly steeper V at the front, and the deck is different too. Al together, it's just a different boat [emoji28]. I call it the G-Force.