Blazer Marine Sport 20 Electric Build

[rol243]

sounds good, just hope we don,t have to waite another year for stage 2. lol

[InspGadgt]

Lol

[Shooter]

I've built a lot of wooden boats both scale & Fast electrics.
I've never found it necessary to soak ply to bend it. I have used a heat gun on some ply to help the process. But mostly I just bend it around a 4" pole in my workshop by moving it from side to side while adding pressure.
I will say here though that most of the Hydros that I have built, have been ML Boatworks kits & the ply used had also been bought from them. Blazer marine may use a different grade of aircraft ply, that doesn't bend in the same way.

Bending a ride pad.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]164817[/ATTACH]


Experimenting with a piece of scrap to see how far I could bend it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]164818[/ATTACH]


The finished bend
[ATTACH=CONFIG]164819[/ATTACH]

I just saw this. Dang! That is the way to go! Simple and easy.

[ray schrauwen]

I have a very dry apartment and when I let ML kit sit for a year (too long) it dried out and warped on me. I used water or steam just because it worked before.
I had a really old Osbourne Shovel nose kit that was horrid. The ply was either crap ot just dried out or both because I tried even with steam pieces snapped and had to remake them.

Whatever works and simple is always good. I hope you don't ever snap pieces if they dry out.

I found Whiplash kits are much dryer from the get go but the wood is always very strong.

If I got another ML kit and I've built two, I'd build it right away. Most people do build them right away, me so slooooow....

[InspGadgt]

Ok...time to start on the next part of the build! I finally went to West Marine and got some good marine epoxy to finish the boat with. But before I start sealing the main compartments I want to make sure all of my components are installed or at least pre-drilled. I have a really nice center line penciled in on the bottom of the boat and when I coat it with dyed epoxy like I did with the sponsons, I won't be able to see the line anymore. So I need to drill the holes necessary for the motor mount and for the stuffing tube before I seal the inside. So what I need from you friendly folks are recommendations for motor mounts. To start out with I won't be going too crazy. I plan to use a UL-1 or UL-19 motor around 2000Kv with a 4s battery. Do water cooled motor mounts make enough of a difference to make them worth while?

Thank you

[InspGadgt]

Also for the stuffing tube...is there any that come pre-bent?

[longballlumber]

Also for the stuffing tube...is there any that come pre-bent?

My preference is to build the boat completely. ALL hardware installed, stuffing tube glued in, cooling tubes routed, and cowling trimmed and mounted. Then disassemble completely. Now your ready to seal. If you seal before all of these steps you will be creating a bunch of holes in your with natural wood exposed.

Just my $0.02

Later,
Mike

[InspGadgt]

Ok the motor mount is on it's way from OSE...Now to get things going so I can get all the hardware installed to finish epoxy sealing the inside...I need to know where to place the motor, or how to determine where to place the motor. Since the boat is designed to be nitro it doesn't come with instructions for electric. Once I know where to mount the motor, how do I determine where to bend the stuffing tube? Thanks!

[ray schrauwen]

The stuffing tube should be straight going from motor out of the hull. Once out of the hull is where you start to bend it and no, there are no pre-bent stuffing tubes for it.

[InspGadgt]

The stuffing tube should be straight going from motor out of the hull. Once out of the hull is where you start to bend it and no, there are no pre-bent stuffing tubes for it.

I figured that much...but where to place the motor? I'm guessing there is supposed to be a balance point in order for the boat to run properly. Really wish there were pre-bent tubes

[TRUCKPULL]

Balance point should be about 3/4" to 1-1/4" behind the trailing edge of the sponson.

Larry

[InspGadgt]

Balance point should be about 3/4" to 1-1/4" behind the trailing edge of the sponson.

Larry

Given most of the weight of the boat is in the area from the trailing edge of the sponson forward...I'm a bit apprehensive about getting it to balance properly. I would imagine it is probably better to err toward the 3/4" to help keep the front end down?

[TRUCKPULL]

That is a good place to start.

Larry

[Shooter]

One thing I've learned is that the balance point and 'keeping the front end down' are two very different things. First step is to get it balanced and riding properly, then additional weight should be added to the CG if she is blowing off. Just my experience.

BTW, I agree with Larry. My Whip is balanced at about 1" from the sponson backs.

[InspGadgt]

So I've been paused on my build for quite some time due to the turn fin. I just can't seem to find a turn fin and bracket combination that I'm happy with. But through all this a question comes to mind...how far behind the sponson should the fin mount? I bought a UL-19 fin and bracket which mounts it right behind the sponson...the Mojo one I bought moves it back about half an inch. The UL-19 bracket and fin are nicely done but look quite small...the Mojo fin is nicely done but the bracket is probably functional but isn't of the same quality as the fin and there's no slots where it mounts to the boat for tilt adjustment.. The Mojo fin for the UL-19 is angled for the UL-19 so it won't work with my Whiplash. Randy Rap makes a really nice looking titanium fin but it only uses 1 mounting hole, is that really enough to hold the fin in place and keep it from moving? If so I'll probably just go with that and the UL-19 bracket...that way I have a straight fin option and a curved fin option. Thoughts?