ML GSX338 V2 P Sport Hydro 1st Build

[mojoracer]

OK, I removed the sponson assemblies from the build board. I decided to put the rear bottom pieces on the sponsons. I used a sanding block to grind the right angle on bulkhead A lower edge. I also had to bevel the rear of the flat bottom piece of plywood. Parts fit well!

Using the sanding block with 80 grit, I shaped the top and bottom edges of the sponson sheers to rounded shape. Kind of follow the edges of the bulkhead until the block is flush with the top and sides. You will be taking off quite a bit of meat from the outer edges of the sheers.

I then epoxied all the joints of these sponson framing parts with West System. I also use small fiberglass tabs cut from fine cloth. This adds a lot of durability to a wood race boat. More about this later. Taking Mikes advice, I will not install the sheeting untin I mount these frames to the center hull section.
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[mojoracer]

Preparing to build the center hull section. Laminated the L and R inner/outer side rails together, as well as bulkhead 4A &4B and FE Rail inner and outer LH and RH parts. I also did the deck supports LH and RH at this time. Canadian beer bottles make perfect weights! I used some small pieces of 3/8" dowel rod to align the outer side rails. I put soap on them so they would not get stuck with the resin. Will start assembling the center section tomorrow! Busy unpacking 300lbs of lipos tonight!
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[golfito]

Great!
I hope someday to start such a construction.

[mojoracer]

Working on the center section today. Laminated the 2 transom part #1 together as well as bulkhead 4, FE rails L&R and the 3 layer outer trusses.

To align the outer trusses for lamination, I cut 6 small pieces of 1/4" brass tubing. Push these into the 3 1/4" holes on each truss to get perfect alignment!

Before fastening the bottom "pan" to your flat building surface make sure you knock out all of the slots. I stuck mine down and found I missed 3 of them. I picked them out with an exact o blade.

Do a trial fit of all the bulkheads and parts. Clean up all the slots/tab holes!

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[mojoracer]

No trip time! Using a method I read about on this forum, I pre-bent the no-trip side sheeting. Just heat the plywood area you want to curve, and apply pressure. It does not have to be perfect, just close.

I attached both sponson sub assemblies to a flat build board. ML Mike warned me to not sheet the sponsons in the free state as they can twist!

I hate clamping this kind of stuff! I have been using Allen headed servo screws on my wood hydro builds. Since I paint my boats, I just fill the screw holes in with epoxy or Bondo when removed. 1st you install on screw and align up the part. Check inside and look for a nice tight fit to the frames. I only use enough screws to make decent contact with the internal structure. After you are satisfied with the fit, remove the screws. Apply epoxy on all the framing contact points and run the screws down. Do not over tighten of you will distort the sheeting! I use a small cordless driver with a long 1/4" socket extension and a 1/4" drive allen socket.

After all the screw are tightened, brush epoxy on all the joints. I filled the joint from the no trip to sponson sheer plate with plenty of epoxy! This are has the most stress and needs to be shaped and blended in after the glue dries!

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[mojoracer]

Building the tub:

I pre laminated all the center section parts that required it. I fastened the floor pan to the build board with a couple of screws as shown. The longitudinal "FE" rail bottoms are coated with epoxy and put into place. I drilled and fastened the rails in with 4 servo screws to help keep the floor flat on the build surface. Bulkhead frames 1 through 4 were fitted to the side trusses. Once everything was slid together I coated all bottom surfaces and all bulkhead to truss slots with epoxy. I then slid this whole lump onto the rails and bottom pan. Make sure all the bottom tabs lign up with the slots and press down. Everything fit nicely and minimal screws were used to hold the framing down. At this time you and install the front #5 bulkhead.

Once everything was set, I checked to make sure the sides and bulkheads were square. These ML kits really just fall into place. Parts fit great and no guessing yet!
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[mojoracer]

Hatch rails and nose pieces:
I installed the double laminated hatch support rails with epoxy. I drilled and screwed the left one to keep it down. The right sat down perfectly. I also installed the front top deck cross piece and the one below it. I held these parts with clamps while the glue dries.

My wood boats have been very strong. One of the things I do on my builds is to reinforce all of the bulkhead and stringer joints with fiberglass cloth "tabs". I cut up a bunch of 1/4" to 3/8" wide strips of light cloth with a hobby knife. I apply these pieces wherever the stringers or bulkheads meet the outer sheeting. West system is applied to the joint with a brush. I then pick the tab from the bench with the wet brush and place in these joints. Once the tab is worked down flat, I dab some more epoxy over it. This method will keep
your hull from developing split seams and leaks!
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[Luck as a Constant]

looking good man. lot of ml boat works builds lately around here

[mojoracer]

Hull to Sponson Test fit

Here is a quick look at the hull and sponsons assembled! I checked the length, just a shade under the P class rule of 34"! Perfect...

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[TRUCKPULL]

Bob

We can't see the pictures in post #22

Larry

[mojoracer]

Trimming sponson side no trip sheeting:

I used a sanding block to grind down the lower edge of the sheeting. Use caution not to sand the frames and stingers too much! You need to make sure and cut the leading edge of each step of the sponson bottoms. These little notches are for the "shingled" sponson bottom surfaces.

Top side no trips were trimmed off close with Dremel cut off wheel. I then sanded and shaped the rest of the side sheeting to the frame. This is the lower edge of the bull nose shape where the deck meets the sides.

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[mojoracer]

looking good man. lot of ml boat works builds lately around here

Fixed

[mojoracer]

Bob

We can't see the pictures in post #22

Larry

Fixed

[TRUCKPULL]

Looking good Bob.
I have learned some new tips and tricks in building.
Thank You
Larry

[ray schrauwen]

No trip time! Using a method I read about on this forum, I pre-bent the no-trip side sheeting. Just heat the plywood area you want to curve, and apply pressure. It does not have to be perfect, just close.

I attached both sponson sub assemblies to a flat build board. ML Mike warned me to not sheet the sponsons in the free state as they can twist!

I hate clamping this kind of stuff! I have been using Allen headed servo screws on my wood hydro builds. Since I paint my boats, I just fill the screw holes in with epoxy or Bondo when removed. 1st you install on screw and align up the part. Check inside and look for a nice tight fit to the frames. I only use enough screws to make decent contact with the internal structure. After you are satisfied with the fit, remove the screws. Apply epoxy on all the framing contact points and run the screws down. Do not over tighten of you will distort the sheeting! I use a small cordless driver with a long 1/4" socket extension and a 1/4" drive allen socket.

After all the screw are tightened, brush epoxy on all the joints. I filled the joint from the no trip to sponson sheer plate with plenty of epoxy! This are has the most stress and needs to be shaped and blended in after the glue dries!

]

Awesome build, thanks for sharing.

In the bold, I don't completely understand. I know the no trip piece but I'm confused where you add lots of epoxy to the sponson sheer plate???