ML GSX338 V2 P Sport Hydro 1st Build

[mojoracer]

I received a couple of ML kits yesterday. This includes a new size for p sport the 33.8" GSX 338. I knocked all the plywood parts free from their sheets last night. Here is what you get as far as laser plywood, see photos. ML is sending the cowling and hardwood parts to me later this week.
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[mojoracer]

I started by laminating the sponson sheers and sponson transoms together. There are 2 sheers labeled L and 2 labeled R. These are stacked on top of each other, 2 Ls and 2 Rs.
The double sponson sheers on the GSX boats allow you to round the edges of the sponsons. This is like moderen Unlimited and GP full scale hydroplanes do. The full size racers found this helps reduce blow overs. Also the front sponson tips are rounded and back cut (looking from plan view). Same deal here , helps reduce blow overs and getting stuck on buoys too! Nice job by Mike to incorporate these features in the RC models!

The sponson transoms have labels Part CFL and CBL the B (back) goes on top of the F part. The left front has cut outs to reduce weight, while both rights are solid for turn fin mounting. I used a thin coat of West System 105 resin to bond these parts together.

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[jim82]

[TRUCKPULL]

Bob is this your first wood build?

Have fun with it.
You will never ever again buy a glass hydro.

Larry

[mojoracer]

Bob is this your wood build?

Have fun with it.
You will never ever again buy a glass hydro.

Larry

5th ML wood hydro build Larry.

[cybercrxt]

Thank you so much for doing this Bob. With my limited time building the new V2 kits is just not in the cards right now. You are helping out many many people, and I thank you!

[mojoracer]

I gathered up the sponson side rails and all the bulkhead parts. Use a flat surface to build these components. I put some freezer paper that has a waxed surface on the board so the glue will not stick to the board.
I cleaned up any burs on the parts so they will sit flat. The sponson transoms are the thick laminated parts CL and CR. I used a sanding block to smooth out the edges and clean up the epoxy joint. The Great Planes sanding block and adhesive sand paper roll is very useful when building a wood boat! You will also need some CA glue and a small square for this step.
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[mojoracer]

Next step is to install all the bulkheads A through F left and right. The parts are well marked, so match them up. The bulkheads go on with the marking tag up and facing the rear of the boat. I use a small amount of CA glue on the tabs and flush mating surface. place the part and use the square to keep it straight while the CA glue sets up.
Once all the bulkheads are in place you can place the sponson sheers L and R on their respective assemblies. Test fit the sheers before gluing them on. I had to clean up one of the slots for a good fit on the RH side. Make sure to center the front tip of the sheer to the sponson side rail (see last photo).
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[mojoracer]

Before you install the ride pad longitudinal supports (parts 1, 2 and 3 L&R) it is time to use some of the supplied 3/16" sticks. I put a small piece on bulkhead AR to support the end of 1R. This will give a larger glue joint surface for 1R to AR joint. Set it the plywood thickness below the top edge.

I also decided to put the deck support square stick along the sponson side while these sub assemblies were attached to the board. The top of this stick runs along the dotted line. Cut the proper angle on the rear to mate up to bulkhead A. There is a big curve in this stick so I tacked it with CA in stages working from rear to front. A long angle needs to be made on the front of the stick where it rests on the sponson sheer top surface. I rough cut it with a saw, then sanaded the final fit.

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[mojoracer]

Before installing longitudinal parts 1, 2 and 3, another 3/16th stick can be installed. The sick goes in the square notch below slot 1R on the bulkhead. The front edge get the long shallow angle at attach to the bottom of the sponson sheer as shown. Once this stick is installed, you can fit part #1 in the next step..
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[mojoracer]

Now you can install parts 1R and 1L. They fit into the slots nicely. Put some glue on top of bulkhead B and the stick on bulkhead A. Glue part#1 to the rest of the bulkhead slots, and the bottom of the sponson sheer up front. I also put some glue on the stick below #1 to secure it.

Longitudinal parts #2 and #3 can now be installed. Be sure to make the back edge is flush with the rear of bulkhead C.

The other top deck support sticks have also been installed. I put a coat of West System on most of the joints. Once this dries, the parts will be removed from the build board.
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[cybercrxt]

Bob, Be sure that when you add the outside non trip, that your frames are clamped down, or they WILL twist. I have had so many people have issues when they don't keep the sponson clamped while adding the lower sheeting. I personally like to frame the sponson, then glue it to the center section, then sheet it...That way it cannot twist!

[ray schrauwen]

Nice build thread Bob. Mike is right. Some of my pieces were a bit warped in another kit, but keeping it clamped all through the build makes all the difference. I also prebend those non trip pieces, makes it easy to glue up with few clamps.

Keep up the great thread Bob, I might get one of these some day, fall maybe.

[cybercrxt]

Yeah, the non trip panels, because they have to be bent, will naturally try to pull the framing out of shape so the non trip can lay back flat..It is annoying, lol

[mojoracer]

[QUOTE=cybercrxt;713838]Bob, Be sure that when you add the outside non trip, that your frames are clamped down, or they WILL twist. I have had so many people have issues when they don't keep the sponson clamped while adding the lower sheeting. I personally like to frame the sponson, then glue it to the center section, then sheet it...That way it cannot twist!


Noted, thanks for the tip.