The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

[ray schrauwen]

Like the steering linkage. On the servo side, where do these parts come from? The rudder ends looks like Dubro no? That is 3mm or larger rod? Threaded both ends I take it? I can get some from China but... lol... If threaded on both ends did you put the servo mount hole in a specific place to utilize a standard length rod?

I'm getting my building area cleaned up at my apt. Getting the build bug finally. Nice touch putting FG & epoxy over the joints on the transom. You are giving away all of yours and Mike's building secrets man!

[Shooter]

Hey Ray. The servo side is just an aluminum horn with a ball cup (easy to take on and off). Yes, rudder end is dubro, drilled out with 2.5mm drill bit. The rod is 3mm, threaded on both sides with a die (no standard length, although that would be a good idea!). BTW, the rod is 'easy to machine' stainless from Mcmaster Carr. The system is very rigid. No flexing/bending/etc...

BTW - I'm trying something different....a right-mount rudder. One disadvantage is that it doesn't 'pull' the servo to turn. It's also dragging on the same side as the turn fin.

Regarding the question the other day about streamlining. The transom is just tall enough to accept speedmaster hardware. Any shorter, and the hardware would not mount.

[ray schrauwen]

There is a way to thin it out ala Terry Davis style. All you need to do is add inner solid blocking where you want to use L aluminum to mount stuff to. Terry had some custom machining done that is beautiful and super strong however the same can be achieved with of the shelf angle aluminum and inner blocking to mount it to, hard to explain... I have a whip kit to try it on but, so many things to do, so little time.

[detox]

I had to file adjustment slot in strut longer so that I could adjust prop less deep. Strut adjusted too deep caused stern to ride too high resulting in my boat's sponsons running too wet. Boat was lots faster afterwards.

[T.S.Davis]

Haven't even taken Ty's out of the box yet. I'm still carrying the money he owes you around in my coat pocket. haha

Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.

[longballlumber]

Haven't even taken Ty's out of the box yet. I'm still carrying the money he owes you around in my coat pocket. haha

Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.

So you increased the ride height by adding ride pads?

[Shooter]

Pete, did you change the sponosons on this version at all? I'll probably build it like mine. I have a tick less vacuum than you do. I'm not sure I ever showed it to you. I like to run a little higher in the water.

Yes, the sponson bottoms are 5mm wider, so if you want to build them up, you can follow along the side angle without losing too much of a foot print. The only other changes involved the hull thickness (less room inside).

I saw your mod (a rogue visit to the pond on a Saturday afternoon last year). It worked very well, and seemed to turn better as well. The geometry was too complex to add in the laser cut, but simple to add on!

BTW - I did end up building up the ride height on the 'Kool' boat. I think we ran it that same Saturday. It ran like a bat outta hell (67mph w/Neu 1515), but was more or less 'flying' on top of the water. It was a little loose for my taste. Dave has that boat now.

[T.S.Davis]

That and I decreased the pocket that gives that ground effect. Basically I dropped a wedge in there. The boat isn't as sucked down if you know what I mean. I like to run a little looser than Pete does.

[T.S.Davis]

BTW - I did end up building up the ride height on the 'Kool' boat. I think we ran it that same Saturday. It ran like a bat outta hell (67mph w/Neu 1515), but was more or less 'flying' on top of the water. It was a little loose for my taste. Dave has that boat now.

I remember now. Mine is sort of in between your original and the built up version.

[Shooter]

That and I decreased the pocket that gives that ground effect. Basically I dropped a wedge in there. The boat isn't as sucked down if you know what I mean. I like to run a little looser than Pete does.

Yep, the intention of the tapered bleeds was to lower the pressure under the hull and keep her glued to the water. So far, nobody that I know has blown one of these off, so maybe it's a bit too 'glued'.

Question - Would it be legal to bleed air out from the top of the deck? I was thinking of a few 1/2"-1" diameter holes on each side that could be plugged simply with tape, and then opened up for rough/windy conditions. You could make the change seconds before launch!

[longballlumber]

Question - Would it be legal to bleed air out from the top of the deck? I was thinking of a few 1/2"-1" diameter holes on each side that could be plugged simply with tape, and then opened up for rough/windy conditions. You could make the change seconds before launch!

Sorry, not allowed...

https://nebula.wsimg.com/b73ec9ed8c61254e1ad6f44c22b9664a?AccessKeyId=ACA7381D2BFC72351748&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

Section J. Rule F.2.g

"Picklefork hulls shall not have open areas ahead of the forward riding surfaces totaling more than 25% of the total hull length. No other hull vent(s) are allowed"

[Shooter]

Phooey!

Apparently someone already thought of doing that.

[Shooter]

The boat was sized to accept 1" foam insulation on each side. This is true for everything from V3.0 and beyond. This one I'm building now is V7.0, which is the same as V6.2 with the addition of the stick built nose.

[Shooter]

More progress. The deck is on.

[ray schrauwen]

Do you glass the side and top joints? Both sides? Thx.