The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017

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  • ray schrauwen
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 9471

    #16
    T180 or SF220, Castle 1515 1Y.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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    • Shooter
      Team Mojo
      • Jun 2009
      • 2558

      #17
      Originally posted by ray schrauwen
      Do you do multiple layers at one time or let dry before next etc...?
      Multiple layers at one time.

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      • Shooter
        Team Mojo
        • Jun 2009
        • 2558

        #18
        Originally posted by bob horowitz
        Nice job, doesn't even look like there is any cloth. It's got to be very painstaking, a trial to the patience to be sure. My compliments.
        Bob
        It's tough to see, but here is a close up.....and yes, it definitely tests your patience! :)

        I've also heard of people doing the outside of the boat once the deck is on, but I've never tried that.
        Attached Files

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        • Shooter
          Team Mojo
          • Jun 2009
          • 2558

          #19
          Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.

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          • Shooter
            Team Mojo
            • Jun 2009
            • 2558

            #20
            Originally posted by grsboats
            Pete nice building and I'm pretty sure your boats last for long.Thanks for sharing.Gill
            Thanks Gill. My boats don't break the sound barrier like yours do, but they do survive the Wednesday night grind line at our club practices!!

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            • Shooter
              Team Mojo
              • Jun 2009
              • 2558

              #21
              Finally back at it. Bending these acid brushes makes it easy to cover the undersides with resin.
              Attached Files

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              • Shooter
                Team Mojo
                • Jun 2009
                • 2558

                #22
                Finished glassing all the corners and seams. I've been using the brush to dab and pick-up the glass and then position it and wet it out. The bottom of this pc in the photo still needs to be wetted out. For long pcs, I've been dipping my left index finger in epoxy and dabbing one end of the glass, then dabbing the other end with the brush to pick it up and move it into position. That probably sounds trivial, but it took me MANY boats to come up with a good way to transfer and position glass pcs. I move pretty quickly now. Forget the tweezers and everything else!

                BTW, it was OK to cover the motor mount holes with glass (I can drill them out later), but NEVER THE SKULL!
                Attached Files

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                • ray schrauwen
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 9471

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Shooter
                  Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.
                  Thanks Pete.

                  Nice building tips too!

                  Since it's so stable, if one was to go very light on motor ESC and batts would it free the hull up?

                  Just curious.

                  BTW, if you were so inclined to run 6s in this for Q, what motor/kv would you try?
                  Nortavlag Bulc

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                  • Shooter
                    Team Mojo
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 2558

                    #24
                    Originally posted by ray schrauwen
                    Thanks Pete.

                    Nice building tips too!

                    Since it's so stable, if one was to go very light on motor ESC and batts would it free the hull up?

                    Just curious.

                    BTW, if you were so inclined to run 6s in this for Q, what motor/kv would you try?
                    Thanks Ray. No doubt that less weight (depending where the CG is of course) would loosen it up. I would have no idea where to start for a Q, probably a 1250KV like we run in our Whips.

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                    • ray schrauwen
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 9471

                      #25
                      I have a Scorpion 1470kv 4025 outrunner to tinker with.
                      Nortavlag Bulc

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                      • Shooter
                        Team Mojo
                        • Jun 2009
                        • 2558

                        #26
                        Now that sounds fun!

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                        • Shooter
                          Team Mojo
                          • Jun 2009
                          • 2558

                          #27
                          OK. I had a couple hours last night so I installed the stuffing tube. I pushed it up onto the motor shaft using telescoping brass tubes. I also left a lot of xtra length at either end, so after I made the bend, it left me some freedom to slide it up and down along the motor shaft for adjustment. Cut to length on each side and DONE.

                          Also, a good way to check concentricity is to install the flex and leave the collet on the motor shaft without tightening the grub screws. When it spins completely free with no binding, then you know you’re dead nutz and ready to glue.
                          Attached Files

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                          • Shooter
                            Team Mojo
                            • Jun 2009
                            • 2558

                            #28
                            I thought this was a neat idea. I put the strut mount screws in backwards to act as guide pins and provide quick release while adjusting/installing/re-installing the strut (my holes are fairly tight, 1/8” for 6-32 screws, so this works well). The downside of tight fitting fasteners is that it doesn’t leave room for any error, but the upside is consistent alignment and no water in the hull!
                            Attached Files

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                            • Shooter
                              Team Mojo
                              • Jun 2009
                              • 2558

                              #29
                              Here is what I was talking about earlier regarding glassing the stuffing tube. It’s clean, simple, waterproof, and stronger than any glob of epoxy. If you study Mike Ball’s boats, you can learn a lot! He goes one step further and puts a tube slightly larger for removal. I’m not quite there yet.
                              Attached Files

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                              • Shooter
                                Team Mojo
                                • Jun 2009
                                • 2558

                                #30
                                The top side is complete. I will glass the bottom side later tonight. BTW, I only mixed 0.6grams total of epoxy to do this, and it was still way too much.
                                Attached Files

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