T180 or SF220, Castle 1515 1Y.
The Black Pearl P Sport Hydro 2017
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I've also heard of people doing the outside of the boat once the deck is on, but I've never tried that.Attached FilesComment
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Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.Comment
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Finally back at it. Bending these acid brushes makes it easy to cover the undersides with resin.Attached FilesComment
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Finished glassing all the corners and seams. I've been using the brush to dab and pick-up the glass and then position it and wet it out. The bottom of this pc in the photo still needs to be wetted out. For long pcs, I've been dipping my left index finger in epoxy and dabbing one end of the glass, then dabbing the other end with the brush to pick it up and move it into position. That probably sounds trivial, but it took me MANY boats to come up with a good way to transfer and position glass pcs. I move pretty quickly now. Forget the tweezers and everything else!
BTW, it was OK to cover the motor mount holes with glass (I can drill them out later), but NEVER THE SKULL!Attached FilesComment
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Ray, it's a TP 4050, 2400KV. I'm going to try an H5 and I'm hoping to approach 70mph in the straights. This boat is plenty wide and doesn't build much pressure underneath with the tapered bleeds. It was glued to the water in chop during (5) boat heats at 62-65mph last year.
Nice building tips too!
Since it's so stable, if one was to go very light on motor ESC and batts would it free the hull up?
Just curious.
BTW, if you were so inclined to run 6s in this for Q, what motor/kv would you try?Nortavlag Bulc
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Thanks Ray. No doubt that less weight (depending where the CG is of course) would loosen it up. I would have no idea where to start for a Q, probably a 1250KV like we run in our Whips.Comment
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OK. I had a couple hours last night so I installed the stuffing tube. I pushed it up onto the motor shaft using telescoping brass tubes. I also left a lot of xtra length at either end, so after I made the bend, it left me some freedom to slide it up and down along the motor shaft for adjustment. Cut to length on each side and DONE.
Also, a good way to check concentricity is to install the flex and leave the collet on the motor shaft without tightening the grub screws. When it spins completely free with no binding, then you know you’re dead nutz and ready to glue.Comment
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I thought this was a neat idea. I put the strut mount screws in backwards to act as guide pins and provide quick release while adjusting/installing/re-installing the strut (my holes are fairly tight, 1/8” for 6-32 screws, so this works well). The downside of tight fitting fasteners is that it doesn’t leave room for any error, but the upside is consistent alignment and no water in the hull!Attached FilesComment
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Here is what I was talking about earlier regarding glassing the stuffing tube. It’s clean, simple, waterproof, and stronger than any glob of epoxy. If you study Mike Ball’s boats, you can learn a lot! He goes one step further and puts a tube slightly larger for removal. I’m not quite there yet.Attached FilesComment
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The top side is complete. I will glass the bottom side later tonight. BTW, I only mixed 0.6grams total of epoxy to do this, and it was still way too much.Attached FilesComment
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