Carbon fantasm twin build

[TheShaddix]

Nice idea on that tool! I always run into the same issue when removing servo arms.

One thing about the rudder that I'd like to suggest is repositioning the turn horns on the sides so they are more inline with that main silver pivot pin. You can do that by simply flipping them from one side to the other and also moving them one hole backwards, then drill a new one and just epoxy the bolt in. This way you keep equal tension when rudder is straight as well as turned. Right now, if you turn the rudder fully to one side, you will notice the tension gets weaker on one pull cable than the other due to the horns actually shifting sideways in relation to the pivot point. Ideally, you want the horns to be perfectly inline with the bushing so they do not shift laterally.

Also, why do those stuffing tubes have such sharp bends? That's where the flexes will grind the tube most and create extra heat.

[kfxguy]

Nice idea on that tool! I always run into the same issue when removing servo arms.

One thing about the rudder that I'd like to suggest is repositioning the turn horns on the sides so they are more inline with that main silver pivot pin. You can do that by simply flipping them from one side to the other and also moving them one hole backwards, then drill a new one and just epoxy the bolt in. This way you keep equal tension when rudder is straight as well as turned. Right now, if you turn the rudder fully to one side, you will notice the tension gets weaker on one pull cable than the other due to the horns actually shifting sideways in relation to the pivot point. Ideally, you want the horns to be perfectly inline with the bushing so they do not shift laterally.

Also, why do those stuffing tubes have such sharp bends? That's where the flexes will grind the tube most and create extra heat.

It does look like sharp bends in the picture but they aren't. Not sure why they look that sharp. I will check to make sure the shafts turn freely, I do see what you mean looking at the pic.

[kfxguy]

Nice idea on that tool! I always run into the same issue when removing servo arms.

One thing about the rudder that I'd like to suggest is repositioning the turn horns on the sides so they are more inline with that main silver pivot pin. You can do that by simply flipping them from one side to the other and also moving them one hole backwards, then drill a new one and just epoxy the bolt in. This way you keep equal tension when rudder is straight as well as turned. Right now, if you turn the rudder fully to one side, you will notice the tension gets weaker on one pull cable than the other due to the horns actually shifting sideways in relation to the pivot point. Ideally, you want the horns to be perfectly inline with the bushing so they do not shift laterally.

Also, why do those stuffing tubes have such sharp bends? That's where the flexes will grind the tube most and create extra heat.

Are you talking about like this? Where the pivots all line up?

[TheShaddix]

Exactly like that! Not sure who made those rudders but they are definitely not properly set up.

[kfxguy]

Exactly like that! Not sure who made those rudders but they are definitely not properly set up.

Well unfortunately that setup worked like crap. Binded. Didn't travel correctly. Started getting the servo warm. So I then copied my rtr zelos. Now it works perfectly. I figured if it was good enough for a world wide sold model, it was good enough for me. Lol

[TheShaddix]

That's because of the angle on those arms. After a certain point of the turn they just pull towards themselves and not straight back, so there is 0 leverage, and they just bind. If your cables were parallel and straight, the inline type would be the way to go. I didn't realize this until now. My cables are straight, that's why I suggested this. But now I see yours is the way go to for that angle on the arms.

[kfxguy]

That's because of the angle on those arms. After a certain point of the turn they just pull towards themselves and not straight back, so there is 0 leverage, and they just bind. If your cables were parallel and straight, the inline type would be the way to go. I didn't realize this until now. My cables are straight, that's why I suggested this. But now I see yours is the way go to for that angle on the arms.

I'd have to put a big spacer on the rudder to set it back which is something I didn't want to do because it didn't look right. It works perfectly like this and there's no binding and no slack. Next one I build might be a little different but the rudder mounting pad on this boat isn't really ideal for a pull pull setup. I'm happy with it at this point, before I was disappointed and that's why it's been sitting because I hated the result of the mbp rudder. Don't get me wrong, the mbp is a nice rudder and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on a hull it's better suited for. Thx for the tips tho!

[TheShaddix]

One thing i didnt like about the mbp rudder is the slight play in the bushing. No matter how much I tightened it, it would have some looseness. i don't get any of this with speedmaster rudders. That's the only brand I buy now. Even after a lot of use, still 0 play in them.

[dmitry100]

Those 150amp esc's are gonna get hot man... might even end up blowing them up on this setup...

I remember my 200amp SF's would get super hot even on 447's.

Maybe pimp them out with some extra cooling :)