Smoked and ESC would like some Advice before buying another one....

[Charlie Hegelheimer]

So Im running a Traxxas Spartan I picked up for free with bad motor but had a good T180V1/2 Esc. I replaced the motor with a TP 4060 1720KV running dual 6s8kmah in parallel with Prather s215 (Stock Prop size just SS rather than the plastic one). This setup was running really good until it flipped and the esc was never the same after being submerged. This set up never got very hot even on long runs (20+min with the 16000 mah). I replaced the older 180A esc with the new V3 version b/c the original had done so well, after every run the 180AV3 esc and motor was now VERY VERY hot. Nothing had changed other than the ESC but now the motor and esc were getting incredibly hot I couldn't figure it out. Went and met some guys at a local pond and one guy let me try a 3 blade prop (not sure exactly which one it was) but he told me it was the equivalent to my prather prop. Either way after running it for about 2 min the ESC smoked really really and leaving burn/smoke and soot on the hatch and hull. after inspection the positive wire coming out of the ESC and connecting to the batteries had completely un seated itself OUT of the ESC. I have not even tried to put the wire back in (beyond my experience to do so). So now I'm thinking i would like to replace this ESC and would really like some of the amazing knowledge this forum has to help get this thing back to a very reliable set up.

So Im wondering what the best ESC would be for a Spartan hull with:
TP 4060 1720KV
6s 16kmah
upgraded drive line and hardware
Prather 215 SS prop


would also like to prop up to a Prater 220 if you guys think it would be safe to do so.

thank you guys

cheers.

[zooma]

1720kv is kind of high for 6S. Current spikes might have done it.
Default timing on new ESC might have been too much for that combo.
Prather B215 should not be much of a strain.
B220 should work, it's close to an Octura M445.

Might want to try a Swordfish 240 set on automatic timing.

[trigger]

Do the basics first, check the drive line for binding, cooling lines for blockage, things sometimes move after a crash, check everything is nice and free so that you can be sure there is no other force at play before spending $$ on fixes. Then start on the hardware from there, short runs and check check check.

[Peter A]

First, your old T-180 probably has water in it. I have had that happen and after opening up and drying out it could be ok. The TP motor is a Y wind, timing should be 15*, but lower timing shouldn't be a problem to it. It is possible that after a soaking the motor bearings rusted and that would possibly be a cause of extra loading on the electrics making things hot. Lesson here, if things are loaded and getting hot, a smaller prop is a better move than an 'equivalent', and 3 blades are less efficient than 2.
The 180 esc should be fine. I had a 220 SF in my Q hydro, and it never ran right and just gave up the ghost, dodo. I put a T-180 v2 in and it runs mint. Motor is TP4060 1620kv D wind, prop D/T B/S X445. This is set up for racing on 5000mah.
Check your motor bearings and if in doubt replace anyway.

[JimClark]

20+ Min run times?

[zooma]

First, your old T-180 probably has water in it. I have had that happen and after opening up and drying out it could be ok. The TP motor is a Y wind, timing should be 15*, but lower timing shouldn't be a problem to it. It is possible that after a soaking the motor bearings rusted and that would possibly be a cause of extra loading on the electrics making things hot. Lesson here, if things are loaded and getting hot, a smaller prop is a better move than an 'equivalent', and 3 blades are less efficient than 2.
The 180 esc should be fine. I had a 220 SF in my Q hydro, and it never ran right and just gave up the ghost, dodo. I put a T-180 v2 in and it runs mint. Motor is TP4060 1620kv D wind, prop D/T B/S X445. This is set up for racing on 5000mah.
Check your motor bearings and if in doubt replace anyway.

Just curious, what timing did you set the T180 to for the D wind motor?

[Charlie Hegelheimer]

All the drive train and motor were fine. I grease the shaft and strut before every run. The motor spins freely and bearings are good as well. Here are some photos of what the damage looks like.

Yes 20+ min run times as I have two 6s 8,000mah nano techs. This hull gets real slippery at full throttle therefore I don't spend much time pushing it that hard.

IMG_6532.jpgIMG_6529.jpg

[tlandauer]

Your statement that the old set up " was never really hot after 20+ min. run time" was base on your subjective feel or you actually used a temp gun aiming at the caps on the 180ESC V1/2?
It is no secret that the V3 runs hotter and I recall several early complains not common on the V1/2.
In any event, go over the check list as suggested above and prop down and re test, I have had similar prop but with a slightly cupped tip that smoked both a Neu 1515 and Leopard 4082/2200kv in 30 seconds where as the none cupped prop ( same raw prop configuration) did just fine. Never under estimate the black science of prop.
BTW, 20+ min. is very very long, I know you have had no trouble, but the accumulated effect on the old T180 , and possible water intrusion not with standing, could have already accounted for the behavior change.

[Mxkid261]

I smoked a v3 seaking 180 last summer with very little 6s time on it the capacitors would get quite hot after a 10 minute run, as would the esc itself. 20 minutes seems pretty long for anything FE. Im assuming you weren't running an external BEC on the v3 esc? I ended up getting the Turnigy branded v3 180 from HK, which comes with an extra 4 bank set of capacitors and I was advised by others to run an external bec, and using 8mm bullets. I also added an extra cooling line to the fins. It Barely gets warm now, runs extremely cooler than the seaking ever did.

[kfxguy]

20+ Min run times?

When I read the 20+ minutes run time I thought the same thing you are. That's way to long for a fe boat! Most anyway.


Op, if you get another t180 try adding a brass tube pressed down into the heat sink find on the other side of the esc. There's a couple threads on it. Very easy to do.

Bearings. Like said above, if they got wet, they are likely corroded. Replace them or at least oil them, run the motor disconnected from the flex at low rpm for a little bit, clean, repeat until they sound smooth. May or may not work for you.

Three blades, unless your quite experienced or like smoking things, stay away from them. They load things up a good bit more if you don't know what your doing. (No offense, we all had to start somewhere....my first esc explosion was from a three blade lol).

Seriously try to limit your run times to maybe 10 mins instead of 20. Also when you try a new prop, run for 30 seconds then bring in and check temps. Then run for one minute and check temp. A lot of stuff can happen in 30 seconds. Trust me, I know from bad experiences lol

On 6s a t180 really need an external bec and not use the internal bec. This adds more heat if you use the internal bec.

Lastly, 1700ish kv can be a lot of kv for your run times on 6s. It will be fine (usually) for 3-5 or so minutes but if your wanting runtime like your doing then you need 1500-1600kv to be safer. Know your limits. When in doubt, over esc it.

[Mxkid261]

My esc temps dropped considerably when I added the brass tubing to the heat sink. Why would they not put 2 lines on the heat sink from factory? Seems like a no brainer lol

[Charlie Hegelheimer]

Thank you so much guys! I greatly appreciate your polite assistance! I have double checked the motor and it spins very nicely without any noise or resistance. I will try another SK180V3 but will try an external BEC and the added cooling tube. Would you guys happen to have a link to any threads for the cooling tube handy and also any advice on an external BEC setup? not too familiar with that as I'm super newbish in this scene.

Thanks again guys you all rock!

also one last thing... would you guys have any opinion between he SF 200A8s that is on this site for $129 or the SK180AV3 that is 119? the

[dmitry100]

Be careful with a Swordfish 240 (if you are thinking to go that way) ... it's not exactly what I call water resistant in any way.

Especially knowing how well the Spartan keeps water out and all. Either seal up the hatch/hull really well, or find something more waterproof like the new Seaking 160 Pro, or something like that.

[kfxguy]

Thank you so much guys! I greatly appreciate your polite assistance! I have double checked the motor and it spins very nicely without any noise or resistance. I will try another SK180V3 but will try an external BEC and the added cooling tube. Would you guys happen to have a link to any threads for the cooling tube handy and also any advice on an external BEC setup? not too familiar with that as I'm super newbish in this scene.

Thanks again guys you all rock!

also one last thing... would you guys have any opinion between he SF 200A8s that is on this site for $129 or the SK180AV3 that is 119? the

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ng+180+cooling

[Mxkid261]

I simply ran a 3/16 drill bit through the fins on the one side and slid a piece of 3/16 copper brake line through, worked like a charm