Pete's Shooter P-Sport Hydro

[Speed810]

Hi All....

I know there are a couple of threads out here on this boat, but wanted to post some of my build. There may be a few small variations that may work for some others.

I'll be outfitting the boat with the TP4060 1950kv, Seaking 180HV ESC, Speedmaster 21 flat bottom strut, and speedmaster 21 rudder assembly. Being that this a bit longer motor not sure if it would be a good fit with the built in motor mount, plus the fact that there is no rear support for the motor if mounted with just the front plate.
I may be looking at a standard OSE 40mm mount and moving it slightly back to allow room for the ESC to sit in front of the motor.

I started the framing process last Sunday and it sure is going together quickly. The building board is an old drafting board I had. Bought some graph board, aligned it with the board and secured it with tacks and tape. Drew the center line for alignment. Started dry assembling the frame and aligned the rear sponson bulkhead tight up against the building board and then secured a block at the transom to keep everything square. Also double checked various points on the graph to see they were even on both sides of the boat to ensure everything was straight. Clamps added at the bulkheads and the front sponson jig.
Worked like a charm.
All bulk heads were tack glued with CA.

Sponson's are next in the framing process.

Appreciate any and all ideas....:)

Mike

[Shooter]

Looks great! I wouldn't worry too much about the back of the motor not being supported. I ran the boat with several longer length cans and never had a problem with the built-in mount. At one point, I was running with a 1530! As long as everything is mounted concentric and you have limited vibration, you should be good to go.

BTW guys - The official name of this kit is now "The Black Pearl".

[785boats]

Mike.
Pete is right.
The mount is solid.
You may have seen the mount in my thread. It is just a piece of 1/8th aluminium bolted to the mount.
no movement at all. I do have a third motor mounting screw at the top of the motor though that is not shown in the pics.
If you are concerned, just add a tail ring & mounts with a bit of glass work & use the original mount on the face of the motor. Like this.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-83005

[TRUCKPULL]

Mike.
Pete is right.
The mount is solid.
You may have seen the mount in my thread. It is just a piece of 1/8th aluminium bolted to the mount.
no movement at all. I do have a third motor mounting screw at the top of the motor though that is not shown in the pics.
If you are concerned, just add a tail ring & mounts with a bit of glass work & use the original mount on the face of the motor. Like this.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-83005

Paul
I see you put the motor mount on the back side of the wood, was that for weight distribution or an other reason??

Larry

[785boats]

Mainly to let the timber frame & bulkhead take the thrust & the weight of the motor evenly all over, rather than just on the 4 bolt heads in the ply if it was mounted on the front face of the bulkhead. Ply can slowly compress under bolt heads over time, & the plate can become loose.
But I epoxied it to the bulkhead & the tub floor too, just to make it really rigid.

[Shooter]

Good thinking. Best to distribute the load over a larger area. That's the best way. I've found it to be OK on the other side as well though.

[Speed810]

Pete and Tom...

Thanks for the information on the motor mount. I'll have to see how everything is going to fit up front and the balance. I have one of OSE's 40mm mounts with the water cooled face plate and fiberglass mount. I thought if I needed a little more room up front I could move the motor back slightly. But I'll definitely look at it and see what will work out the best. I have no doubt the way its designed that it will be plenty strong.

Waiting on some lumber (sticks) to finish up the sponsons and bottom stringers.

Thanks again guys...

[Speed810]

Making progress

Finally making some head way on my Black Pearl after receiving my lumber.....

Finished adding all the 1/8sq to the sponsons and center section. Sanded down the bottom and added the bottom sheeting that fit perfectly. Then moved on with the sponson sheeting. As Pete and others indicated the side sheet bends very easily when heated. I really didn't even have to use a form, just heated it up and bent slowly by hand till I had the curve required. It fit so well that I used the same technique on the front recovery pad that needed a slight bend to it. Worked great and takes all the stress out of the process while gluing in place. No Warp!

Completed the rest of the sponson bottom sheeting last night with the ride pad and the air bleed section and recovery pad. Used my dremel with a small 1/4 round sanding disc to take down all the larger ply hang overs and then completed with a sanding block for the finish. Everything fit very well and lined up great!!

Great design and cut kit Pete!!

Today getting down to finishing off the inside of the boat with epoxy and some fiber glass work. Timing wise this has worked out great since I am at the same point with my Q-boat. So lots of epoxy work today...LOL

Later all!

Mike

[ray schrauwen]

Very nice. Thanks for all your posts!

[Shooter]

Yeah, that heat method that Ray originally turned me on to works great. No residual stress. Also, if that bottom piece fit perfectly, that means you built it nice and straight. Nice work!

[785boats]

Looking good Mike.
For trimming down the excess overhangs, I like to use a little palm block plane. Also good for shaping & angling the stringers & chines etc.
If you are going to build more wooden boats, you might consider trying one. Something like this.

[detox]

I really like this hull because of it's larger battery capacity. If I were to build one of these I would extend transom about 3 to 4 inches for Q hydro. And play with bending and cutting Octura's X series props.

[Shooter]

Looks like I'll have to get myself a palm planer!!!

[Speed810]

Hey Paul...

Actually I think I have one of those...plam planners....lol Just seemed to be so easy to just use the dremel...HAhaha But I can see that it would come in handy for some of the stringer and chine work where your trying to keep everything square.

Finished putting in all the fiberglass / epoxy work last Sunday night. Tonight I will be finishing up the tub portion with a coat of epoxy. Then on to adding the front wood block for the nose section, adding hardware and completeing the motor installation.

Everything seems to be coming along.

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

Looks like I'll have to get myself a palm planer!!!

I have one of those. They work great for trimming back overhang like when you cut the deck sheets a little over sized.