Checking the thickness of the blades as different areas are different thicknesses. Will be thinning them also as a thinned prop will be more effective. But not much for me as these are going to be on the high rpm range and I still will need all the strength of the casting. And I have them detounged as that portion of the prop is like first gear, helps take off but just doesn't allow the prop/motor to achieve top rpm.
MADD CATT -41" fantasim saw build
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I use a small 30" belt grinder (sander) to rough shape the blades. And thin them some where possible. As any cast prop is not that accurate to its intended shape. And all props should at least be balanced and sharpened some.Comment
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Don't be afraid to get them down to 47, 48, 49mm...they will have plenty of thrust for the Fantasm.
I don't remember where you're at RPM-wise...did you give out that info? If you didn't just disregard.Comment
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Thanks Keith, I have a bunch of 447s (tonged, ect..) so I'm starting these at this size thinking ill be able to trim them down if too big and re shape. Without having to do a dozen props :). I am only working on two sets right now, one just detounged and trimmed to 53 (I think) and then some cupped. The numbers so far on the 1852 cnc three blade props are what I'm guessing from. As the two blades should be pulling less amps.Comment
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Balanced and sharpened. In my opinion I polish to a high sheen all my props. Some say scuffed is faster so not, without getting into that debate I simply will say top offshore powerboats have highly polished props (for speed not holeshot drag racing)Comment
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It usually takes me a couple times of polishing. I don't always see the small file marks until after polished. So back to sand, balance, polish again as many times as it takes.Attached FilesComment
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In the above pics on the blade the marks are my fingerprint, the scratches are on the leading edgeComment
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And then the top secrete work starts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Attached FilesComment
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Lol, it's not really anything other than some minor tweaking of the blades. Maybe when I run them and get some data logging numbers ill share. As for now they are just a guess as to what the esc and motors will handel. I will have tune them accordingly.Comment
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Well have been running the guts out of this!! I haven't had the time and right conditions to put the fastest stuff together yet, but in the meantime,,,, I think from this hull being extremely solid that the vibrations are harder on parts. The stinger hardware has loosened up several times. I have used the same things on other builds and never had loosening issues. Drive line is as balanced as I see fit to be running close to 50k. I just think its super solid and passing onto parts. And I machined a new pivot pin for the rudder. The original was having too much play in it for running this a xxx speeds. I have noticed a small chine walk (oscillation) in its ride attitude. Since tightening any slop it has ceased. So another for those understanding what the difference between inexpensive hardware and very expensive hardware difference is. For any other application this assembly would have been fine, but that little play was manifesting into loss of top speed and control issue. Radio range, I use spectrum and have no complaints about it, but I have been running this boat pretty far away for some long straight passes. And a little further out to where the river is deeper in case of a torpedo accident in shallower water. I decided to try a new radio, I bought the shinney new flysky with that fancy touch screen (yes I'm a sucker for the tec stuff ). Haven't got it yet, this week. And I was at Wally World (Walmart) the other day, I was out of grease for equipment so I bought some mystic high temp ect,,,, grease. I'm not much of a grease is better than other grease believer until now. I normally have been using some high end grease I hade from the motocross racing, I think it's silkolene or maxima? But good stuff. Since I switched to this Walmart grease I have been melting Teflon in the cat. (High rpm, high stress) in the other boats I have ran it in everything seems fine, it actually looked to be lasting better. Clean it out and switch to the stuff I had been using and Teflon was fine. Both greases were rated, high temp and waterproof. So for me I now actually think I may change my opinion on grease is grease. And when I re-grease the cat the stingers are torn apart and tubes cleaned so all new everywhere when I clean and reapply. As for the other sport-n-fun boats usually once a day and sometimes once a weekend. The cat usually doesn't see more than four battery sessions and redone.
So hopefully this week/weekend ill put up some new videos and a progress report if ya all are still interested.Comment
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I'm waiting on some videos to be sent to me so no videos at this time but some number updates. With sharpened and balanced 5218 three blade props (stock) I'm getting 103-105mph pretty much whenever I want. Small chop and she is running good. The stingers are not holding up very well. Broken a few and bending the pedestal pin. I've even turned a new pin out of brass and that started to bend as well today. I just picked up some carbide mills and new inserts for stainless steel. I usually only work with aluminum so new tool inserts and mills. Hopefully this week I will be able to manufacture something before weekend. Tempted to get some drives from Keith. I have her running well so I had some 457 octura props I started playing with. Balanced and sharpened and trimmed down to 55 they were running around 92-95. And a little less peak amps. I'm going to back cut them as I'm hoping to free up the motor and get some more loaded rpm. I've been working on several sets that have been heavily modded but I'm taking the necessary setup steps to get there. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to be near the 119 of the loto winner. (Lol). But might put up a 110+ looking for 112-115mph so this goal might be in sight.Comment
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