MADD CATT -41" fantasim saw build

[Cooper]

Lol!!!! Cool! So how did she run? Pretty good for first outing?? Hope u didn't have to use the kayak. Yes got some small boxes at home, it's like Christmas getting boxes delivered. I'm working on stuffing tubes now, still have some hull work yet. The paint scheme hasent yet been defined but I'm leaning towards a racing yellow for a base coat. I want this to be highly visable. I'm thinking something with simple broken up lines front to back. But haven't decided yet. Starting to get some ideas together. Want to have MADD Catt written on sides somewhere. Might even make an attempt at ghost flames, not all over just some accents on sides of hull.

[Cooper]

I really like the hulls propainter does!!! Awesome work, I would love to have a boat looking like one of them. But, all the boats I have get run and run hard!! Rubbing is racing! We trade paint on the racetrack!!! Lol. I would be afraid to run a boat that looks like one of them especially with a $300+ pain job. So I'm going to try my hand at some myself.

[Cooper]

Got the stuffing tubes done. I might have said in another post that I was not going to run Teflon but I decided to use what I had and opted for the liner method. After cutting the tubes to length I doubled the straight section with another larger piece of tubing. I always try to get at least one inch of the beginning to be straight with the motor shaft. I use the tube inside a tube method to line up the shaft. I used a 3/16 coupler with a section of 3/16 shaft then some other pieces of tubing to get to the size of the stuffing tube. This assures that I will have a very precise alignment for the flex shaft.


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[Cooper]

You can see here the tube inside a tube alignment. And the first part of the tube will be straight in alignment with motor shaft.
For the other end I flaired the end to help reduce any stress from the different angles the stingers can be adjusted. And it helps with sealing the gap around the tube and hull. I didn't have the right size flair tool so I just used an old .223 shell casing. This could also be done with just some rod, wiggled around carefully.


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[Cooper]

You can see that the flair helps in any stress point at the pivot location on the stingers. And the location on the hull. Next is to tack them in place and to do a final install.


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[Cooper]

Stuffing tube will be wrapped for stability.

[twissted]

I can honestly say that I learned alot from this build. And some things, I already knew.
Did you weigh the hull before you started adding all the kevlar?
Looking at the early photos of this build, I would say that fightercat hulls are sub par at best. I have seen hulls that need some work and others that don't need much.
I will be buying from Centralrc hobbies from now on as I like the idea of buying American. But mostly they build a nice hull, with cost being as good a the china hulls.

As for this build it is well written and very informative. Well done sir!

P.S. I wish I would have seen this build before I bought my hull.

[Rocstar]

I can honestly say that I learned alot from this build. And some things, I already knew.
Did you weigh the hull before you started adding all the kevlar?
Looking at the early photos of this build, I would say that fightercat hulls are sub par at best. I have seen hulls that need some work and others that don't need much.
I will be buying from Centralrc hobbies from now on as I like the idea of buying American. But mostly they build a nice hull, with cost being as good a the china hulls.

As for this build it is well written and very informative. Well done sir!

P.S. I wish I would have seen this build before I bought my hull.

I have owned 7 Fightercat hulls and they all have needed minimal work. For the money they are great hulls. Any bare hull will usually need some work. My 59" Central hull is VERY well made, but still needs a little work before paint. Again, a great hull for the price!

@Cooper, looking good. If I had to do over I would of done more reinforcing under the deck and hatch on my Fantasm. Those crashes at 80+ mph can get a little nasty.

[twissted]

It has me thinking of going through my HOR Zonda and doing some work, thats for shure.

[Cooper]

I forgot one, a pic of five min. Epoxy mixed with milled fiberglass


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[Cooper]

I can honestly say that I learned alot from this build. And some things, I already knew.
Did you weigh the hull before you started adding all the kevlar?
Looking at the early photos of this build, I would say that fightercat hulls are sub par at best. I have seen hulls that need some work and others that don't need much.
I will be buying from Centralrc hobbies from now on as I like the idea of buying American. But mostly they build a nice hull, with cost being as good a the china hulls.

As for this build it is well written and very informative. Well done sir!

P.S. I wish I would have seen this build before I bought my hull.

Thanks, no I wish I did have an original weight. If any of you have this hull and know what it weighs stock I would appreciate the knowledge.

[Cooper]

I have owned 7 Fightercat hulls and they all have needed minimal work. For the money they are great hulls. Any bare hull will usually need some work. My 59" Central hull is VERY well made, but still needs a little work before paint. Again, a great hull for the price!

@Cooper, looking good. If I had to do over I would of done more reinforcing under the deck and hatch on my Fantasm. Those crashes at 80+ mph can get a little nasty.

Yes, the fiberglass splitting, rudder bending, stinger breaking, 80+mph crashes,,,,,,,,,, uhhhhhhhh. I am hoping to have solved most of these thoughts. I'm sure I will have the pleasure of finding another area that's in need of some reinforcing. Something always has to give. I just hope I will be able to get to those areas when it presents itself. That is why I will be using pool noodles and not expanding foam. It's kind of a fine line between strength and too much weight, but this one should have a fighting chance, I hope.

[Cooper]

The tube wrapped in carbon fiber. Basically draped over so the support is really two layers. In my opinion this adds strength but will still give some with whatever forces are delivered across the hull. And with the motor weight and motor mount all being tied into the hull hopefully this will become one large motor mount that will be able to withstand the extreme forces exerted on re-entry from an airborne attempt at pond long jump.
And if the cf looks sparkly it is because I mix in milled fiberglass to the finishing resin. If I wasn't concerned about weight I would add one final light coat for aesthetic purposes.


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[iridebikes247]

The FC hulls are ok but need bracing and benefit from adding epoxy/carbon kevlar as done by most of us. They're a nice low cost alternative to some of the big stuff out there plus its fun reinforcing.

[twissted]

I was looking at your stinger mounts and thought I would share a thought with the readers. I made Stainless steel studs and loc-tite them in place and then use washer and stailess lock nut on the inside of the hull. I found that it helps with the install and no chance of cross thredding the alumnium mounts. Just a thought.