Tweet
Maybe Phil builds them different now but, I'm at about 16".
Ay 15" it would blow over with 4S1P cheap 5000's.
Ay 15" it would blow over with 4S1P cheap 5000's.
-
Nortavlag Bulc -
OK... I should be good then... I have plenty of room there, and will likely look into running more than 5000 mAh... since most 2S packs these days are 5300 or 5400 or 5500 mAh, etc... I also have a pair of 6600mAh Thunder Power 65C 2S packs... lots of options, and plenty of room in this hull.
If you don't mind me asking... where is your strut height? How high off the setup board is the bottom of the hull at the back??Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
-
I believe strut is dead flat and 3/4" deep as per Phil T.
It's apart right now but, 3/4" to start works fine. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
If you set the boat up right, you don't need to add weight. I run my 6000mah nano packs in the sponsons, with the ESC in front.Comment
-
Fabricated my turn fin bracket this afternoon. Started with a piece of 1/4"+ thick aluminum channel, and went to work on my mill. This is what came out the other end. Flex??? Not even close!
This is the blank for the initial fin I'll start with. Need to bend the bends into it and sharpen, but I'll do that while I'm waiting for the paint to dry.
Now that all the hardware is mounted, I have the boat torn back down and am going to prep for paint. Hopefully I can get it painted and ready to go for testing next weekend.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
-
Nice work Darin. I opted to save a bit of work by buying a turn fin from Mike Hughes and I couldn't be happier. I know you like to do it all our self and thats all good. You haven't built a dog yet! Keep upi the great building and yeah, 1/4" for a bracket is the way to go.
I better get painting or you will be done before me!! Darn crappy weather when I have to paint on my balcony. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
It's taking a little longer than I'd hoped, but I finally got her in primer last night.
Cowling had a TON of pin-holes in it, so I used Evercoat Finish Glazing Filler over the entire surface, spread on forcefully with a bondo spreader to squeeze it through the pores... Then sanded and sanded and sanded.
The hull itself was pretty good. No pin-holes to speak of, just cleanup at the joints and along the seams. After spraying the primer, some of the imperfections showed up more clearly, so I'll do some more filling and sanding, then put another light coat of primer and it'll be ready for color.
By the way... I'm DONE with rattle-can painting... which is part of the reason why this is taking longer... I had a long talk with Brian and took notes, part numbers, etc... and have picked up just about everything he recommended. The PPG clear and AutoAir Colors colors are on the way... should be here today. It's going to be a learning curve, but I'm already happier with the results thus far. Just got tired of spending the time and energy and resources to DO a great paint-job, only to have the paint quality/adhesion let me down the first time I untaped. Hopefully this new system will hold up better. Seems to be working for those that already go this route. NOT IN-Expensive, however... but I'm willing to pay for now...
I'm still hoping to have this together enough to test run it by Sunday. We'll see how time cooperates...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
-
you will be suprised it is very easy to apply and you have to really screw up to get the clear to run. The base coat great to work with and dries quickly. Once I get the Times primed again I can have the boat painted and cleared in about 4 hours that is three colors and cleared"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy GrahamComment
-
I think once I get the settings for the guns figured out and get the system worked out, you are right, this is going to be GREAT! I've often wondered how they can do so much masking and painting and tape removal, etc., so quickly, on American Chopper, etc... when doing those awesome custom paint jobs... NOW I KNOW! QUALITY PAINT that actually dries!!
When I sprayed this primer, I had the pressure too low. Was only about 30psi at the gun... Looks like it should have been around 42/43... Just one more step in the learning curve...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
-
I have a small touch up gun you can use if you want. It is new and i have never used it I just have used my Airbrush for painting but it is a stretch to paint a 1/10th scale with so I bought the touchup gun"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy GrahamComment
-
This stuff is "bullet proof" and shoots pretty easy...
later,
MikeComment
-
Thanks, Jim. I picked up a detail gun from Harbor Freight that I'll be using to shoot the color, and I have a decent touch-up gun that I'm using for the primer. Paint color is going to be water-based AutoAir paint, so cleanup should be easy. I'm going to probably pick up a second detail gun to use strictly for solvent based paints. That way, I'll have one each of the detail guns... one for solvent, one for water, and a dedicated primer gun... Seems like a reasonable way to go...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
-
Yep, I'm on my 3rd rattle can of Spraymax 2 part epoxy primer and for the money I spent I could have had a shop spray primer it for me. I'm about to paint also.
I find as long as the base coat is good, when I use Tamiya TS rattle cans it sticks like crazy and it's quite tough if you use a good clear coat. Still very expensive for what you get but, tough paint.
I had a boat go right through an ABS mono I painted this way and there was nary a scratch. Taping never lifted the paint either. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
Comment