32" FC Rivercat build with twins project

[JPriami]

Yeah there is a chance for that to happen Larry I have that concern too. I have already taken them on and off 3 or four times since I have done it tho. So far they haven't moved. I did add light grease to the threads that has Teflon in it after I took them out and it seems to make it really easy to screw and unscrew.
On the final install I will add a layer of rtv between the stinger and hull. That always seems to help keep water out and actually helps hold them in place even.

[JPriami]

One other thing that happened after doing that with the resin is it filled in the gaps after drilling the holes a little bigger than the bolts. I didnt get my holes precise so I had to open them up a little so I could align the stingers & rudder up just right. So after laying that resin down it sank in behind the washers to the back end of the stingers & rudder filling in the gaps nicely and even the resin has thread areas in it from the bolt making a mold sort of speak.

[JPriami]

Wanted a little more space to get batteries and to get to the motors etc so I trimmed some of the inside of the hull canopy lip.




Then set stuff inside getting an idea of where to lay it all out. Here the cog is around 9". It's just really to see how the heck it's gonna all fit.



I found I may have to move the leopard cooling can inlet/outlets around to make them fit how I'd like. Haven't done so yet. Just something I'll have to do before mounting.

[CHUD]

Leopard motor's are kick a$$, Killer work bud

[tiqueman]

J, hopefully you don't have anny issues with the nuts you glassed in. I've used that method before and its hit and miss. When its a miss, it sux. However, next time you do this, I might recommend adding som.e type of filler to thicken the resin. Remember, resin by itslef is not strong. Ie, a coat of resin in a hull does nothing but add weight, add cloth as you did and you've greatly upped hull strength. Looks good though man. In my twin hotr build, only thing I wished id done different is move the motors back a bit and put the batts in the sponsons. If you havnt seen the build you might check it out.

[LarrysDrifter]

Trim what you left of the lip. Its doing nothing for strength. Im talking about the small sections you left in the front and rear. If using in hull pick ups, dont water cool the motor mounts. There isnt much pressure created by them. Use what water you can pick up for the motors and speedos.

[PapaGriz]

I wish the Daytona had those recesses for the "exhaust tips", I think having the water exit out those is a sweet plan.

[JPriami]

Thanks for the info Scott. I did add some fiberglass to the rudder resin set. I took some cloth and trimmed little bits of hairs to the resin before I poured it in. Made it really thick. That pic of it was the first pour ( no hairs mixed) and it didn't cure so I took that out with some paper towel and did it differently the 2nd go around.

Larry I just might do that. I just left that area because it wasn't in the way of anything and figured if I crash and the top gets pushed down on it might help keep it in place a little.

And guys I really do appreciate all the tips and heads up on this. After all it is my first one from a bare hull so thank you.

Got any tips on motor mounting and stuffing tube bending?
Do I mount the motors first then bend tubes?
I was figuring I'd use a straight rod to point the motor shaft as it's in the mount in the right direction to the hole out to the stingers then adhere the motor mount to hull. Then bend tubes? Fill them with sand or salt before I bend them?

[tiqueman]

I'm on my phone so its easier for me to ask than to search the thread, what r u using for mounts. I've got a template to make mounts out of carbon or sheet fiberglass. I usually make the mount, mount the motor and coupler. Set aside. Take the stuffing tube and heat it red hot, stick it under cold water. Now you can bend it easily and don't have to sand fill it or anything. Just go easy. Set the motor how you think it needs to be and tack it w 5 min epoxy, just enough to hold it. Adjust the tube until u feel its correct then slid a shaft thru it and adjust accordingly until it enters the motor collet perfectly. Tac it. Remove motor and epoxy it all in strong. Just be sure when you tac the stuffing tube the shaft is installed. Just helps keep it aligned. The purpose of just tacking a mount at first is incase your "I think this is how it has to go" is off. If your using FC right angle mounts, id recommend a wedge to put it on an angle to get the shaft soemwhat angled down. This will help prevent such a large "s" bend in your stuffing tube. Hope that helps

[JPriami]

Yes I got the FC mounts. I
Figured I'd have to make a wedge after seeing them sit in there. I didn't know about that heat the tube trick. That's handy.
Thank you.

[tiqueman]

Another thing I've done, using the fc mount, is make a plate mount and sanwich the cooler between the motor and the plate. I did that on a bj26 twin build. I posted a pic of it on here somewhere. I didn't do a thread on it, it was in someone elses. I can post a pic of it later if you'd like.

[JPriami]

What's your opinion on Teflon liners? Should I just ditch them on this build? I have two 4mm OD brass tubes with liners. And I have two 9/32 brass tubes that I'd have to get liners for if I ran .187 cables.

I was planning on running wire drives. But since my motors are kinda big and long, I may have to move them back a little bit to get the COG back. So cables are sounding a little more flexible and needed.

[tiqueman]

I've been building boats for 20 years, I just built my first without a liner. A few members in our club convinced me to try it. Its in my df cat. I've only run it twice, so far so good. I will say that spinning it by hand it does feel more free.

[JPriami]

Ben had said i could use the 4mm tube just take the liner out to run a .187 cable. And if I ran a wire drive put it back in.
I've always used liners but I see many people not using them in post. I figured it would be worth a try. But at 2650kv x 4S I'm gonna be turning a bit of rpms so I'm in uncharted waters lol.

[Philmunsterman]

For what its worth I don't run liners in my SAW Riggers and they turn Very High RPMs and I've never had a problem. Just keep the shafts greased and you will be fine. Phil