Aeromarine Titan 29" My 2nd build

[millzee]

I've been looking at my spare castle creations 1515 1y 2200kv motor and wondering what I'll do with it and after a bit of research and some help from a few of you guy's I've ordered the Areomarine Titan 29" hull in white. I am still a tad unsure weather I should have waited for the Delta force 29"'s to come into stock but I thought I'd just order it and see if I like it or not. I figure the DX3s can store up to 10 models, so I'll just keep building until it's full, (and the wife thinks I'm just buying a hull and useing left over spares), everyone's a winner!!


I'm going with this as my 2nd build:
Titan 29" hull
C/C 1515 1y 2200kv motor
Swordfish 200amp Esc
4s2p Turnigy 5000mAh 45-90c lipo's
Spectrum MR200 RX
traxxas servo
3/16 flex in 1/4" brass, speedmaster stinger strut, speedmaster rudder and tab's, and I've ordered both carbon and aluminium turn fins, I'll have to see which ones look better.

I'm thinking the x445 prop or maybe the x640 or x642, am I close?

[Norman2]

Hi, You will be very happy with your Titan 29 build. I have the same boat but it
is set up for Limited Spec Offshore. Powered by an Ammo 2300 KV/RPM, a Turnigy
120 Amp ESC. 4S 500 mah 40C Lipos and Octura X640 prop. Hardware is a stinger
and Offset Rudder, Turn Fins and Trim Tabs from OSE. But runs 46.2 MPH on GPS and
handles beautiful. No excessive hat problems. You will have fun. Attached photos of mine. Regards
Norman2
PS An X640 will be fine but with your powerplant you can probably use a X642, just check temperatures.

[millzee]

Hi, You will be very happy with your Titan 29 build. I have the same boat but it
is set up for Limited Spec Offshore. Powered by an Ammo 2300 KV/RPM, a Turnigy
120 Amp ESC. 4S 500 mah 40C Lipos and Octura X640 prop. Hardware is a stinger
and Offset Rudder, Turn Fins and Trim Tabs from OSE. But runs 46.2 MPH on GPS and
handles beautiful. No excessive hat problems. You will have fun. Attached photos of mine. Regards
Norman2
PS An X640 will be fine but with your powerplant you can probably use a X642, just check temperatures.

Thanks mate, that's the kind of help and advice I need, it's good for me to have an idea of the finished product to help lead me in the right direction. Your boat looks great!
Cheers

[millzee]

I finally got some new toy's, this hull is very stubby, 1/2" wider than the df35 and 5.5" shorter make the T29 look fat. It looks to be a strong hull, the carbon is put in well, cover a large area including the sidewalls. Looks like I may have to paint this one due to the outside seem being a tad ugly. I think I will have to borrow someones idea of a sub hatch as the canopy looks almost impossible to tape. This is going to be fun, I'll try not to ask too many silly questions but please keep in mind, this is NOT a how to do it thread, I'm hoping the experienced folk will chime in and let me know if I'm not doing something correctly and offer some tips on how I could do it better.

[Fluid]

You will like the Titan 29, it is a fun boat. Some folks do a sub hatch bit it isn't necessary, six pieces of tape and the hatch is sealed well. The boat runs very light on the water with plenty of lift, so making the strut height adjustable can help a lot in keeping the hull on the water. I believe a strut with flood chamber is better than a stinger for that reason. This lets you raise the strut and lower the hull into the water. Otherwise they are tough to get above 45/50 mph without taking off. But even with a stinger they are still lots of fun.

We used to run these on 18 NiMH cells, and still just got 45-50 mph. Today their high lift makes them very good LSO boats for 'limited' power.



.

[millzee]

You will like the Titan 29, it is a fun boat. Some folks do a sub hatch bit it isn't necessary, six pieces of tape and the hatch is sealed well. The boat runs very light on the water with plenty of lift, so making the strut height adjustable can help a lot in keeping the hull on the water. I believe a strut with flood chamber is better than a stinger for that reason. This lets you raise the strut and lower the hull into the water. Otherwise they are tough to get above 45/50 mph without taking off. But even with a stinger they are still lots of fun.

We used to run these on 18 NiMH cells, and still just got 45-50 mph. Today their high lift makes them very good LSO boats for 'limited' power.



.

Thanks mate, I appreciate the input, since putting in my order, I have been reading Tylers thread on the 45" 100mph mono and wished I'd ordered the gear to do that but I have the stinger so I might sleep on it and maybe put in another order and save this for my next boat.

[Make-a-Wake]

May want to consider an m445...............

[millzee]

I have been playing around a little with a few layout options and I thought I'd post a few pic's, I read some thread were chopper recommended getting the motor back and keeping the batteries forward so I'm trying to use this advice. I have to order my 4s lipo's tomorrow so the batteries in the pic's are 6s, I'm suprised they fit so well, I glad I won't have to worry about the size of the batteries in order to be able to make room for plenty of COG adjustments. I'm a little unsure weather to use the t180 which I'd mount up almost under the deck or to use the sf200 and just center it on a platform, but after Fluids kind suggestion I'm now thinking maybe the motor up front, flood tube and make as much room for Cog adjustments with the batteries in the middle, no point me, I'll have to have a good think about it. Input is always accepted on my threads.

[millzee]

I'm making progress on my build, I've installed the hardware and I'm not sure if the rudder will be ok or not, I could make an extention to bring the front edge in line with the dog drive but I might just worry about that once it's all done. I've mounted the motor and have made enough modification to the mount so I can install the proper cooling can once I get one. I got the stuffing tube fitted after a few attemps at making a really short one and failing miserably, I decided it was easier to have the motor back a bit and lengthen it, added the shrink tube and used 1/4" brass with a flanged 7/32" bushing inserted into the end near the coupler and I kept the gap small with a support mount close to the end of the tube. I have made a ESC mount that will be easily removed in order to get at the coupler beneth it, in the pic's you'll see dicky wing nuts that stick out too far but I used them just for the installation of the mount, I'll come up with something that won't stick out so far to hold down the esc plate to the ply, this should allow me to still get the batteries all the way back down to the transom if need be( I highly doubt I ever will, but I want to know I can if I need). I have found with this layout I will be able to have the lipo's along each side of the motor for a lower COG or in front of the motor in the keel heading up under the deck for a higher COG, (thanks chopper for the advise given on this forum). I have to be a little carefull with the cog because I have been useing 6s lipo's for weight to find the balance points, I'm trying to over compensate adjustment area for the 4s I'll be useing once they arrive. Feel free to post any tips or improvments you think will be handy b4 it's too late

[millzee]

Titan 29" hull
C/C 1515 1y 2200kv motor
Swordfish 200amp Esc now T180 with etti cap bank
4s2p Turnigy Nano-tech 5000mAh 45-90c lipo's
Spectrum MR200 RX
traxxas servo
Rx battery
3/16 flex in 1/4" brass, speedmaster stinger strut, speedmaster rudder and tab's,
thinking X640 or x642

I'm going to paint it up while I wait for the batteries to arrive, I have a few cans of enamel colors and enamel clear coat, these will be ok to use won't they?

[millzee]

I got the hull all rubbed back today and will be spraying tonight, I found an air bubble in the canopy which was fairly large so I filled it and just need to sand that smooth and to shape before I get the paint on. Anyone think it's not a good idea to use spray enamel colors followed by enamel clear coat on this thing?

[Make-a-Wake]

Lookin good....................the paint process you are wanting to use should be fine. I have several i've done of my own like that.

[Brushless55]

Looking forward to this one running the CC2200kv motor

[millzee]

I'm making progress with my painting attempt, I thought I'd share a few pic's of the color's be I give it a lite rub with wet 1200 paper and add the decals and clear coat. Should I wait a few days for the paint to fully harden b4 taking the next step or should I just get it done now, the paint's been dry for about 3 1/2hours??

[Jedi Master]

Wow, loving that colour scheme!!