If you are coating the hull with epoxy there Is a coating epoxy that works better than regular resin epoxy. It comes out clear, not amber and lays down smooth without streeks.
tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.
stealth -- thanks for the tip, but I'm not to worried about it on this boat since it's my first. I will be sanding it down and painting it so the amber is cool. I will definitely get the other stuff for the next boat though, since I hate sanding.
The Manx has been sitting dormant, but I think I finally have my motivation back. I hope to see it float soon.
tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.
stealth -- thanks for the tip, but I'm not to worried about it on this boat since it's my first. I will be sanding it down and painting it so the amber is cool. I will definitely get the other stuff for the next boat though, since I hate sanding.
Hey that's cool. It's just that If you hate sanding the the regular resin epoxy makes It very hard to sand all the brush stokes out. By the time you sand those out there Is not much If any epoxy left on the surface.
tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.
I understand what you mean about having a bandsaw or scrollsaw, but you'd be surprised how well a pink grinding stone thingy on your dremel works for cleaning your fin up and sharpening it(even with stainless fins).
Looking good.
I guess I will go for the solinger stuff but it will have to be after Christmas
I understand what you mean about the price, i'm lucky i have a friend who makes blade rudders and the like for me at unbelieveable prices.
For something a bit less expensive, i would get this when it comes back in stock. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...t-oc6str-130da
Unfortunately you can only get it with .130 cable, but it should handle the motors you got planned, if not get a wire drive
Do not use an inline strut/rudder assembly for a rigger. Actually, that setup is not very good for any application other than offshore racing when you need to turn well in both directions. For your application I'd recommend either the Solinger or the Crumbgrabber stuff (the latter from Fullers). These offset assemblies are great - light, strong, good looking. For speed, mount the rudder on the right side and offset the strut by 3/16" to the right. And 0.130" cable is plenty for 8 cells/3S.
Rear sponsons seem to be faddish - one year they are the rage, the next they are poison. The fact is that the fastest P rigger in the world runs a single large rear sponson for the reason stated in a previous post - to keep the attitude of the rigger neutral so it does not fly off the water. For a boat that will not be going 114 mph they are less important, and I use them only on riggers that are underpowered. The world's fastest Feigao-powered P Rigger did not use them.
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hey, im starting a hydro build and i was wondering if there would be problems with wood rotting or is there a special coat of something your suppose to put on the wood?
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