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"Look good doin' it"
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Well, I finally pulled the trigger on a location, and epoxyed in my water cooled motor mount. I was nervous about the mount being meant for a flat surface, not a V shaped area. I cut some black lexan pieces and epoxyed those in along with it for strength. Hope it holds good
Now I can start to figure out installing the stuff tube and stinger.
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Motor Mount Pics
Due to the weight of the motor this placement seems like it will work out well. Hopefully... I cut a piece of 1/8" black lexan as a support and left a channel near the bottom for water or wires ect..
I also used two pieces of hexegonal shaped plastic to brace the inner sides of the mount.Comment
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are you using a shorter cooling can? I had to modify my mount to take the aluminum one... not even an XL cooling can. The one I am using is an L cooler... and even that woudn't fit w/o mods. plus I had to dig out a little place for the can to sit down into (mine is in a flat tunnel of a hydro)."Look good doin' it"
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It fits ok, It's the: OSE Black S & L Water Jacket for Feigao 540 S & L Sized Motors So not great motor coverage, but along with the water cooled mount it should be ok. I hope. I can't believe the spektrum marine reciever can't do telemetry. Maybe I should have a fan in there too?
As far as cooling i got a: Product ID: oct-ocsw
Octura Streamlined Water Pickup. I guess I have to drill a hole in the hull for this to stick through. I'm not big on the drilling part, but I figured it should flow more water. So I'll have dual feeds and dual outlets. one for the motor and mount, and one for the ESC. Sound like a good idea? I was thinking of mounting it on the left rear of the hull about an inch out from center of hull and maybe 2" forward of transom, roughly...??Comment
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Well the Titan goes to the body shop today for the two final clear coats.They can spray that 2 part urethane much better than me! With a little wet sanding between coats the hull should look and feel like glass. Special thanks to Wesner Auto body in Oshkosh, WI. Great guys, and great prices!
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what are they charging to clear your boat?.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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Well, the first coat he did for free. I dropped it off today along with my trucks tailgate, so we'll see tomorrow what the tab is. The tailgate sure wont be free, and if he doesn't charge me for the boat, I'm giving him a healthy tip. I'm sure I'll at least get charged for the urethane.... I'll let you know and post pics tomorrow.
Now I'm nervous about the motor mount holding after talking to aeromarine. I used the Pacer 30 minute z-poxy, but I guess the pacer finishing resin is better for the polyester resin they use to make the hull?? Sh@%
It should be ok eh?? Or no?
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With the amount of glue you put down, I think you'll be okay. Especially if you gave the hull mounting area a little scuff with sandpaper (which you should always do).Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
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Ya I scuffed it up a little, but now I wish I did more. I only did 6 to 8 swipes with 400 grit over the area. Should have done more... Think I should put some fiber cloth and finishing resin along the sides and kinda overlap it a bit? If so, I would sand the epoxy in those areas first right? I was thinking about running a few strips of fiberglass cloth with resin up to towars the front of the hull for a little extra reinforcement.... Wasn't sure if that was a good idea or not??? Thanks for the input!
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I should have pics of the new clear coats and completed cowl/hatch very soon. I just now have to start to practice my flames with the airbrush before I try to do the boat. I still can't decide on the color for the flames. Any ideas? I want them to be sublte-ish more like ghost or realistic as possible flames. On the green hull I was thinking a combo of electric blue and powder blue to white-ish fade. Or maybe regular old red orange yellow... and then I was also thinking real lightly applied black and greyish, almost like smokey. IDK.... Pin stripes or no... Decisions decisions...Comment
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The way I was told to evaluate the strength of the mount is to grab it and lift the boat up. You should be able to wiggle the mount with the boat elevated and it not come free. The good thing is that if it were to come free, you now have very large surface area to treat and make your new bond."Look good doin' it"
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Ha, really? Ok will do. I was hopeing to have the boat back to work on for the weekend, but the bodyshop must have been busy. I told them no rush so... I should get it back monday I'm guessing (tomorrow). One thing I forgot about was if I should have told them not to bake it between coats since I have the motor and water jacket in there now. Hmmm. I hope thats ok. I think they only bake it at 170 ish..(if I remember right...) so that shouldn't be too high. I hope....
It is just that plastic water jacket.
Last edited by OshkoshMono; 05-02-2010, 10:03 AM.Comment
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Got it back today. Clearcoat looks great! Aubrey at Wesner auto body did a great job. I never could have gotten that urethane to spray so nice.
In the pics, I was trying to get the flake to sparkle in the sun, but the angle of the light and the green grass...pics don't do it justice. Looks awesome with a non-green backdrop. Anyway...
Not sure why, but looks like some dust on the deck near cowl.Last edited by OshkoshMono; 05-05-2010, 12:11 AM.Comment
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I'm still not sure what else I'm all going to do with it. Thinking some subtle flames, and either paint the whole cockpit shields black, or just 1" or so black windows...?? I got the stinger mounted and hole drilled for stuff tube tonight.Comment
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