Castle Firmware 1.04

[Steven Vaccaro]

I know its been said before, but I think its worth repeating. I just uploaded firmware 1.04 and noticed the boat was a bit slower. Come to find out the led on the esc was blinking. Meaning that the esc was not running at 100%. I tried everything and couldn't get a solid color. So I downgraded to 1.03 and its working great. So if you do upload firmware 1.04 make sure to look for a solid red led at full throttle or it will go boom.

[Fluid]

Steven, did you re-program the ESC to the receiver again after loading the 1.04? I switched to 1.04 early this year and have had zero problems with my 240LVs. I custom program the timing to 1 degree for the Neu D motors and 8 degrees for everything else. Works for me on Spektrum and FASST radios...


.

[Raydee]

Yep make sure you did a recalibration of the throttle after updating the esc. I am running 1.04 on all my Castle boat esc's now and yes I did notice a slow down from 1.03 but they are also running much cooler than they did in the previous firmware because the timing values were wrong. I am running my Y winds on RACE now and my boats regained most of their speed back, on my D winds I am running them all on Low and they seem fine.

I will not be the guy that jumps on every update that Castle puts out in the future. They just did a update on their Heli/Airplane ESC's they left a lot of them burnt or bricked. They came out with a revision the next day to fix the problem and told their customers that they would replace the controllers for them but that was a big problem. I still run Castle ESC's in everything I own with the exception of one of my Heli's (that will be getting the new Castle ICE controller soon) but I am still very leary about doing any firmware updates until they are 100% proven to be working right with no bugs.

[cacofonix]

hi there

is there any chance that ICE series will be declined into Boat version ???

herve

[Raydee]

I actually asked that to Lee and he just gave me a :biggrin: face and said it was a good idea. The Ice series with heatsink is good up to 8s with 5a switching BEC built in and only $120......no brainer for my heli's. If they come out with them for the boats with watercooling I would def try one.

[properchopper]

A few months ago at RCX, Jan and I talked to Patrick del Castillo, Pres. of CC about the Ice becoming available in a marine version. He was pretty enthusiastic about the control and said there were plans to market a watercooled version for FE use. No timetable was offered. Jan's memory of this conversation may be more accurate than mine, hopefully He'll chime in.

[bustitup]

A few months ago at RCX, Jan and I talked to Patrick del Castillo, Pres. of CC about the Ice becoming available in a marine version. He was pretty enthusiastic about the control and said there were plans to market a watercooled version for FE use. No timetable was offered. Jan's memory of this conversation may be more accurate than mine, hopefully He'll chime in.
let me see if I can get Joe Ford over here to address this

[properchopper]

It wouldn't surprise me at all if CC spends a good amount of time testing the marine version before releasing it to the FE community given their previous history with the Hydra series and our habit of actually desiring the controls to perform as advertised . :unsure:

[Raydee]

Castle is at Ircha this weekend displaying some of their new ESC's and 700 Size heli electric conversion kits.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Steven, did you re-program the ESC to the receiver again after loading the 1.04? I switched to 1.04 early this year and have had zero problems with my 240LVs. I custom program the timing to 1 degree for the Neu D motors and 8 degrees for everything else. Works for me on Spektrum and FASST radios...


.

I did and also advanced the throttle trim all the way and still couldn't get a solid red. I was a bit rushed and only had a 1/2 hour to mess around with it. I will try again when I get back.

[Ub Hauled]

A few months ago at RCX, Jan and I talked to Patrick del Castillo, Pres. of CC about the Ice becoming available in a marine version. He was pretty enthusiastic about the control and said there were plans to market a watercooled version for FE use. No timetable was offered. Jan's memory of this conversation may be more accurate than mine, hopefully He'll chime in.

Mid year was the word... but not actual dates.


It wouldn't surprise me at all if CC spends a good amount of time testing the marine version before releasing it to the FE community given their previous history with the Hydra series and our habit of actually desiring the controls to perform as advertised . :unsure:

You are on the money my friend... but given that lately they have been... hmm... lacking on the QC (or something else) of the Hydras it would not surprise me at all if the release of Marine version of ICE was postponed, just like Tony mentioned.

One cool feature in my opinion of ICE, is the built in Black box...

[G Doggett]

I know its been said before, but I think its worth repeating. I just uploaded firmware 1.04 and noticed the boat was a bit slower. Come to find out the led on the esc was blinking. Meaning that the esc was not running at 100%. I tried everything and couldn't get a solid color. So I downgraded to 1.03 and its working great. So if you do upload firmware 1.04 make sure to look for a solid red led at full throttle or it will go boom.

Hi Steven
I have version 1.04 in both my Hydra 120s and like you found I could not get full throttle on the ESCs( light still blinking) in spite of recalibrating the throttle.
In the end I fixed this by setting the Throttle EPA to 120 and it worked fine.
I know the manual says use 100 for ESC but just ignore it.
Just another weird feature with Castle ESCs.
Graham.:rockon2:

[Jeepers]

Steven check the throttle curve on the esc, sometimes the line looks like its at 100% but its not click on the line and move it if need be.

I had to do this to a few of the controllers in the boat club and my own.:smile:

[D. Newland]

I had a problem yesterday with this while trying to get a new Tx to work. Turns out the Tx was not set on full brake, or something having to do with the brake setting. I got it after a few tries.

Also, I have noticed that new Castle ESC's shipped from the factory as recently as 7/1/09 are still loaded with V1.03. If you don't have a Castle Link, find someone that does and check yours!

[domwilson]

Has anyone had a problem with the Tactic/tower 2.4 ghz radios and this ESC?
I have to turn on throttle reverse for mine to work.

[cacofonix]

hi all

i have 3 hydra 120 , and all updated to 1.04 firmware
reading all thread frighten me ....
i don't notice anything BUT i don't check anything .....

just one thing on the last updated hydra : seem's that can keep neutral

i thing i will downgrade all ..

herve

[Flying Scotsman]

Steven, something is wrong, you must recalabriate as Joe Ford has detalied in a previous post before or you have another problem

Douggie

[Flying Scotsman]

I had a problem yesterday with this while trying to get a new Tx to work. Turns out the Tx was not set on full brake, or something having to do with the brake setting. I got it after a few tries.

Also, I have noticed that new Castle ESC's shipped from the factory as recently as 7/1/09 are still loaded with V1.03. If you don't have a Castle Link, find someone that does and check yours!

That is scary...very high setups and a a possible boom on certain motors

Douggie

[domwilson]

Has anyone had a problem with the Tactic/tower 2.4 ghz radios and this ESC?
I have to turn on throttle reverse for mine to work.

Anybody have a suggestion?

[G Doggett]

Also, I have noticed that new Castle ESC's shipped from the factory as recently as 7/1/09 are still loaded with V1.03. If you don't have a Castle Link, find someone that does and check yours![/QUOTE]

If that's true then Castle are being incredibly irresponsible.
Seems like the sales dept dont give a damn and rely on their aftersales to fix their cock ups.
Where would we be without Joe Ford.
Just another reason why I will never buy Castle again.
Graham.:rockon2:

[Fluid]

Anybody have a suggestion?

What is the problem? Some ESCs require "servo" reversing, some do not. This has been the case since brushed controllers. It is just a flip of the switch on the Tactic to make the ESC work.......




.

[properchopper]

What is the problem? Some ESCs require "servo" reversing, some do not. This has been the case since brushed controllers. It is just a flip of the switch on the Tactic to make the ESC work.......
.

I'm running 4 Castle SC's, all upgraded to 1.04 without a hitch. They're all linked to Tactic Rx's and all have the throttle control in the reversed position . I will say that my first attempt to go 1.04 some time ago with my Futaba radio didn't go well until I recalibrated the throttle { with Jan's helpful supervision}. Now, on 1.04 , I'm much happier knowing the correct advance settings are kinder on the goodies.

[Joe Ford]

We have been talking about making an ICE for boats. No updates as of yet. I am the boat guy now here at Castle. I have acquired a "few", and am convering a 43" beast right now for high energy testing when the time comes. I will be sure to keep you all updated.

Great advice from Steve guys (which I mentioned in the timing issue thread a while back). When you go to the latest software v1.04 you MUST re-calibrate the ESC to the radio. Put your endpoints out to 120% on both forward and reverse, then re-calibrate to make sure the ESC gets the full 1-2ms pulse it's looking for. If your radio is @ 100% but you are not getting a solid LED for full throttle, it is the RADIO, NOT THE ESC that is doing this. The radio is not sending out the full pulse band. Generally this is due to a bad pot in your radio, or one that is out of sync and needs to be serviced if you want it at exactly 100%.

Dom...the radio must have been made by Futaba...they're the only ones I know of that you have to reverse the throttle channel.

Any questions guys just let me know.

[cacofonix]

hi joe

i have 2 questions

1/ how to check that esc got full throttle without motor running ??

2/ i'm looking for an ESC that can work with ONE lipo cell , possible with hydra ????

thanks

herve

[Joe Ford]

1. Go through the calibration process, then arm the ESC without the motor attached, and pull full throttle. The LED will come on solid for full throttle.

2. Unfortunately, it will not. I don't know of any boat ESCs that run on 1s lipo, and the only ones I do know of that will are using in airplanes only...very low amp rating (2A or so). Reason we cannot is 4 fold. #1 we probably would not sell very many and the cost to design it and produce it would be greater than we would get back on the investment. #2 The current design the BEC voltage would be 4.2v output to receiver (it can only put out what the battery voltage is whenever under 5v)...and then when you hit the throttle it would drop even lower. This would cause many issues, especially on 2.4GHz. #3 The microprocessor on the controller will shut down right around the point the battery should be cut off...could lead to bad situations. #4 Even if you used a separate battery pack to power the reciever, if the voltage dropped near 3v in the battery for any reason the ESC would shut off. Talking 1/1000th of seconds here.

Wish we could do it, but we can't. :( I have some boats I would like to do the same thing with.

[cacofonix]

hi joe

thanks for your answer

1/ in my mind it was dangerous for the esc to try it without motor attached ...

2/ why i ask this : on the french forum some guys have launch a "crazy" challenge : best speed with one cell.
at the german saw 2 weeks ago, a german boater reach 114 kmh with one cell ..................
but impossible to know what esc he use.

herve

[Joe Ford]

1. Not dangerous at all. I do it all the time. :)
2. No idea what ESC he used. I will try it this weekend if you like on 1s with the Hydra and separate BEC if you like. Let me know.

[cacofonix]

thanks joe, i will check all may hydra's

2/ for sure, if it not takes you too much time , much appreciate
esc is the last point for this challenge

thanks joe

herve

[bustitup]

Glad to see you made it here Joe....the questions have been mounting

I cant wait to test one of the ICE controlers for you guys....:spy::cool2:


We have been talking about making an ICE for boats. No updates as of yet. I am the boat guy now here at Castle. I have acquired a "few", and am convering a 43" beast right now for high energy testing when the time comes. I will be sure to keep you all updated.

Great advice from Steve guys (which I mentioned in the timing issue thread a while back). When you go to the latest software v1.04 you MUST re-calibrate the ESC to the radio. Put your endpoints out to 120% on both forward and reverse, then re-calibrate to make sure the ESC gets the full 1-2ms pulse it's looking for. If your radio is @ 100% but you are not getting a solid LED for full throttle, it is the RADIO, NOT THE ESC that is doing this. The radio is not sending out the full pulse band. Generally this is due to a bad pot in your radio, or one that is out of sync and needs to be serviced if you want it at exactly 100%.

Dom...the radio must have been made by Futaba...they're the only ones I know of that you have to reverse the throttle channel.

Any questions guys just let me know.

[Joe Ford]

Neither can I. :) And then the HV series. muahahahahaha

1s will take a little time. I must disassemble one of my 2s packs to do it, but should not take too long. Hopefully weather man is wrong and it will not be raining all weekend. Keeping fingers crossed.

FYI...got into boats when I was sent one of the Vac-U-Pickle boats (green one). Tried it out the first time and was HOOKED. Have acquired 3 more in the past 2 weeks, and looking for even more!!! If anyone knows someone that is looking to get rid of a boat hull let me know! I have batteries, ESCs, servos, receivers...just want hulls that are set up so I can drop my stuff in and go. No time to build anymore. Would prefer to trade for Castle products as money is a little harder to come by now that I'm married. ;) lol

[greenblast]

Joe. i just smoked my hydra 120 i had been running a meanmachine with a 9xl with a 1442 on 14 ep 4500's with no heat at all. i went to 4s 5000 mah i ran one pass turned around ran one more was coming in when i saw smoke billowing.she was running on her tail and was screaming . i dont have my receipt the local shop was changing hands and the owner sold it to me cheap for cash.how should i go about replacement?up until now my hydra 120 was flawless.do i need a 240?

[greenblast]

joe i am not trying to beat you up on here. your product has been top notch. after the run i checked my prop and i am actually running a k40 prop and lipo 1 just took 950 mah.

[greenblast]

batt 2 toped off @949mah

[Fluid]

A good 4S pack will outperform top-notch Ni cells easily, as you saw in the improved performance of your boat. But you used up almost 1000 mAh in just two passes (20 seconds?) - something is way wrong. That would be well over 150 amps average draw, and the peaks would be far higher. The prop and motor are appropriate for the boat and voltage but you are drawing a lot of amps. I assume you are running 1P - if you have 2P then your amp draw would be twice that. :eek:

I recommend the 240 for large-format motors like the XL series. You would probably be okay with the 120 until you overproped or ran too long or picked up a few weeds - then :flashfire:



.

[greenblast]

fluid thanks for the reply. i agree something went way wrong i had run my ep 4500 on this exact setup probably 20 times and pulled about 2700 mah in 3 to 4 min pretty consistently(sp) i run a cooling fan she was taped up for a while before the run and still hooked up after run for approx 5 min.i have never ran so little boat in the water. it was sick! i am not happy about the fire but i am pumped about the speed. i cant afford to do this again lol.i run wire drive it was running free. iwould say the run was about 1 min total between checking the radio and the runs.i am not looking to blame anyone only looking for solutions. i know you are the mm guru so i am all ears so thank you for any input. Don

[Joe Ford]

14 cell NiMH voltage drop is considerable as mentioned. A 4s lipo pack is the equivalent of about 15-16 cell NiMH. With voltage being higher, staying higher under load, etc...if you didn't change your prop that's what killed it. Much higher current if you increase voltage but don't compensate by changing something else. Send it in to us though. They all have a core value no matter what the damage. Flat rate replacement and we pay shipping back. $105 for a new one. Use this form and we'll get you fixed up. http://www.castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html

[greenblast]

joe, thanks for the response. would adding caps to the new one be helpful? is this something castle does?i am still trying to find what went wrong.people run larger props on this set up.442 445 545 cog was approx 8.25 strut was 1/4 above rear sponsons slight angle up.maybe my motor cooked and caused the problem she made a thump as the carnage happend.

[Fluid]

A motor that has over-temped will be de-magnetized and lose a lot of efficiency - it will act like a lower-turn motor as far as the ESC is concerned. This will cause the ESC to work harder and eventually fail - don't ask how I know this(!). The Feigao motors are more prone to heat damage than Hackers or Lehners, which are more prone than Neus. Heat up a Feiago to 150F or more and you can expect some magnet damage. It is cummulative damage so it may not show up until several over-temps. Note that water cooling does little to protect the magnets from heat, a fact to which many boaters seem oblivious.



.

[bustitup]

Flat rate replacement and we pay shipping back. $105 for a new one. Use this form and we'll get you fixed up. http://www.castlecreations.com/support/repairs.html

this is one policy that can not be beat:beerchug:

[Fluid]

I did and also advanced the throttle trim all the way and still couldn't get a solid red....

Joe Ford posted the following some months ago, I copied it into a Word file on my computer. I hope Joe won't mind me re-posting it in part here.

When updating from version 1.03 to 1.04 you MUST recalibrate. Failure to do so will cause the controller to not reach FULL THROTTLE (as indicated by the LED not going to a steady ON).

The customers who are using v1.04, and feel it has caused their boats to slow down and temps to increase are probably split into two camps.

1) Those who forgot to recalibrate their unit after updating. These guys would likely see a very dramatic decrease in speed as a result of not reaching full throttle. They also would probably see an increase in temperature because they were consistently running at 90% throttle.

2) Those who calibrated their unit and noticed a decrease in top end. This was probably accompanied by lower ESC and motor temperatures. This was caused by the timing being 'fixed'....if the user sets their timing to 'Highest' on v1.04, the unit should run exactly as it did using the v1.03 firmware.



.

[domwilson]

I lost my instructions for recalibrating. Does anyone have the procedure?

[Ub Hauled]

Tx on and main power off...
full throttle on Tx and then power the ESC
wait for series of beeps, after the series of beeps there will be a steady beep about a second apart...
go to full break and wait for the series of beeps again, after the series of beeps there will be a steady beep about a second apart... go to neutral (just let go of the throttle on the pistol grip) and wait for a series of beeps...
there will be a brief pause and some more beeps,
it's REALLY important that the final beeps happen, it's the saving of the calibration...
once it stops making beeps, it's good to go and also saved for the next times you run, you may power down or go run.

[domwilson]

Thank you.

[greenblast]

recalibrating was a piece of cake .i had solid red on the controller.about 30 mins before the run i used my castle link to change the lvc and was instructed there was a newer version so i joined the mailing list and downloaded it saved the new setting.recalibrated and off i went.i am leaning toward culimative damage in the esc or motor.and stupidity on my part lol.

[Fluid]

Note that the maximum timing setting on the 1.04 version is 16.25 degrees of advance. This is too much for most applications, Joe mentioned it because with the 1.03 version the "low" timing was actually 16.25 degrees. I'd set it on low or medium with 1.04 and go no higher unless I wanted to do short SAW runs. Or you can use the "custom" setting with the CastleLink....I set the advance to 1 degree with my Neu "D" wind motors.


.

[Joe Ford]

Hit the nail on the head in both posts, and no, I don't mind in the slightest. Quote me all you want. :) And re the motors you mentioned (I can't name names...no bashing policy here)...the first motor you mentioned "F", a guy came in a couple weeks ago with an SV27, one of their XL ~2900kv motors, and a 4s 8400mah MaxAmps battery (two 2s in series)...packs were puffed after 3rd run. He was so PO'd that he GAVE ME the boat...disgusted with it. Upon testing I found the Gauss rating of the magnets were WAY WAY off, front bearing had failed as well, etc. HUGE amp draw basically and ruined his new 8400 packs (not cheap by any means). I pulled out that motor, tested it, tossed it, and put in Neu 1521/1Y/F with no water cooling. Running on 3s lipo with 10,500mah...took it out last night for the first time. She's a breeze once you get her on plane. Pack was still going strong after 35 min of running...pulled in to check motor temp (timing on low, everything else stock)...motor was at 124F according to my Fluke temp gun. ESC...all I had was an HV240 so it wasn't even warm. Speed was right around stock, but efficiency was through the roof. I only put 3200mah back in...1600 per pack. Great setup for those looking for a little faster than stock speed, but super long runtimes. Going to 4s tonight, then try 6s if temps are ok. :)

[Eodman]

Joe did I read that right - you were running for 35 imnutes? Or did I misinterpet that?

I am having a hard time getting my head wrapped around Lipos so I just asking not being a smart ass!

[Joe Ford]

Yes, 35 minutes approx. From 8pm til the sun went down (around 8:30-8:40pm). It's a 1577kv motor (XL length by other companies' ratings), timing on lowest for highest efficiency possible, stock prop, 10,500mah batteries. Once on plane it doesn't draw much current...and I have what my buddies call an on/off trigger finger. No in between. LOL That was full throttle the whole time...amp draw is the least at full throttle, highest when just starting out.

EDIT: One thing to mention, I did "pull over" and hand off the controls to a 7 yo (GREAT driver BTW) and his father as well so take 5 min off that for switching between 3 operators. ;)

EDIT2: checked my specs on my home comp just now. I was wrong. I put 3200 back into EACH pack, not just one. Still great runtime though. Man I need to start drinking coffee again in the AM!

[Raydee]

This might be a strange one but all my boats but one are running Neu D wind motors with timing on low and run great. My other boat is running a Neu Y wind motor and I can't get the boat to get out of its own way unless I have the timing on race or higher. I ran it on low and med timing and not only was it slow but everything ran hotter (prob because the hull was slow and running really wet) with the higher timing it runs great and even runs cooler. All my controllers are running 1.04 now also.

[greenblast]

joe 35 minutes do you turn that boat around?i think your controller has been top notch. i had run my nimh for way to long many times.i never had any heat problems.the hottest thing was the batteries.i never melted the shrink wrap or melted connecters. i did prop down. i set the boat up the night before then went to poker night (no new esc after that. lol.) i had forgot i changed the prop and moved up the strut. i was running a cut down 450 earlier that day on nimh. with lipos the speed was awesome and the boat was dialed in.i had always had to run the bats at the back because the boat has foam up front .so my lipos were up to center and she ran so light. i should have checked sooner for heat! i was so confident a run up and back on my pond on nimh and my batts probably wouldnt take a charge lol.3 to4min of bashing was always 2500 to 2700 mah how do you check the magnets? i do have a new motor. this one has been so good. bearings are probably @ the end of life so i run a thrust bearing between the motor and coupler. do you do add the extra caps?are they recomended?would the new controller be covered for a year?i am not blaming your controller i am sure my set up was to hot or my motor was bad and i am trying to find out why.

[cacofonix]

hi there

just to share latest tests

so as joe said, i plug esc / receiver / lipo BUT not motor.
hold full throttle : led was still blinking

put 150% on radio = same

so i take esc and downgrade firmware to 1.03 = ok

then and error message saying that there is a usb connection problem with esc.

unplugged every thing / plugged again = same
impossible to change setup

so one more time

i upgrade to 1.04 = no problem, i can change set up ...etc

BUT one thing look strange to me : first time i upgrade all my hydra (3 or 4 weeks ago)
throttle and break curves (in castle setup window) was there (green and red)

but this time = nothing, i have to select curve type i want .....

so anyway , i will recalibrate esc and radio, but IF still can not get full throttle .................??

herve

[Joe Ford]

joe 35 minutes do you turn that boat around?i think your controller has been top notch. i had run my nimh for way to long many times.i never had any heat problems.the hottest thing was the batteries.i never melted the shrink wrap or melted connecters. i did prop down. i set the boat up the night before then went to poker night (no new esc after that. lol.) i had forgot i changed the prop and moved up the strut. i was running a cut down 450 earlier that day on nimh. with lipos the speed was awesome and the boat was dialed in.i had always had to run the bats at the back because the boat has foam up front .so my lipos were up to center and she ran so light. i should have checked sooner for heat! i was so confident a run up and back on my pond on nimh and my batts probably wouldnt take a charge lol.3 to4min of bashing was always 2500 to 2700 mah how do you check the magnets? i do have a new motor. this one has been so good. bearings are probably @ the end of life so i run a thrust bearing between the motor and coupler. do you do add the extra caps?are they recomended?would the new controller be covered for a year?i am not blaming your controller i am sure my set up was to hot or my motor was bad and i am trying to find out why.

Very big lake so easy to keep the boat at full throttle. To test magnets you need a Gauss meter. I only add extra capacitors when I know I'm going to be pushing the batteries. I always run extra caps in my 2s boats because I know to get any kind of speed I need to draw a lot of amperage, and this creates a lot of current ripple (voltage fluctuation). Our ESCs are covered for a year from the date of purchase. If it's a return I think we still only cover for the original year. Not positive. You'd have to check with repairs on that.

[Joe Ford]

hi there

just to share latest tests

so as joe said, i plug esc / receiver / lipo BUT not motor.
hold full throttle : led was still blinking

put 150% on radio = same

so i take esc and downgrade firmware to 1.03 = ok

then and error message saying that there is a usb connection problem with esc.

unplugged every thing / plugged again = same
impossible to change setup

so one more time

i upgrade to 1.04 = no problem, i can change set up ...etc

BUT one thing look strange to me : first time i upgrade all my hydra (3 or 4 weeks ago)
throttle and break curves (in castle setup window) was there (green and red)

but this time = nothing, i have to select curve type i want .....

so anyway , i will recalibrate esc and radio, but IF still can not get full throttle .................??

herve

If you still cannot get it, send it in. Do not want you getting too frustrated. :) If new, give us a call and we will send you a new one. Sorry I could not reply sooner...lots of work before play. :)

[Joe Ford]

This might be a strange one but all my boats but one are running Neu D wind motors with timing on low and run great. My other boat is running a Neu Y wind motor and I can't get the boat to get out of its own way unless I have the timing on race or higher. I ran it on low and med timing and not only was it slow but everything ran hotter (prob because the hull was slow and running really wet) with the higher timing it runs great and even runs cooler. All my controllers are running 1.04 now also.

Definitely from running wet. Go with a little higher pitched prop and low timing and you'll get the same speed and ESC/motor will be cooler. Try it. :)

[cacofonix]

ok joe thanks for your proposal

phone call ... humm i will but too expensive

i will test again tommorrow and i have a second hydra to test.

herve

[Joe Ford]

If new, fax us your name, address, CC #, and expiry date to +001 913 390 6164 and we will get new one out to you. Forgot that you are in France. :) CC # is for collateral only. We do not charge or put money on hold. We give you 30 days to return defective product and then we take your CC information out of the computer when we get it back.

[cacofonix]

ahh , i will bother you again : i don't have fax ...... :o)

anyway i understand how to proceed. i will make test again tomorrow and let you know

thanks a lot

herve

[greenblast]

Joe, after reading my post i think i should make it clear i am not bashing your product. i have been very happy with it .its a snap with the usb programer. changing from nimh to lipo i should have been more cautious.i just set up the boat with a cheap esc i could not get to arm a long time ago.it now works with lipos so i coated it and watercooled it. i am pulling between 39 and 44 amps on 1 minute runs. i will send this one in for repair when i can .if i dont ever have to stick program again i will be very happy.

[Raydee]

Definitely from running wet. Go with a little higher pitched prop and low timing and you'll get the same speed and ESC/motor will be cooler. Try it. :)

Well I didn't have a 42mm prop with more pitch so I said the heck with it today and strapped on a X645 prop that was detongued and back cut some. All I can really say is the boat came alive, the motor never sounded so good and the boat was incredibly fast and stable. I only ran for a little over a minute just to be safe and everything was still fairy cool. I am going to bump the timing down with the 645 prop on the next run and see what I get. It looks like these Neu motors def like a big prop, I propped up my Sport 40 hydro from a X447 (modified) to a X450 (modified) and again the boat gained a good amount of speed and power with only a slight temp increase. I am very, very happy with my boats right now :bounce:

[exotica]

...well today it appears that my CC Hydra 120 started to smoke on my test bench!!! I cant explain it and have filled out a form online through the CC website to have it sent back for repair, hopefully under warranty as its only two weeks old and seen the water 3 times!! The esc has never gotten wet, im running 2x 2s 5000mah 7.4 lipos and a Nemisis 9XL, prop is Octura X445. My MM 5.5T in my touring car has been flawless. Keep you posted.